RaymondC

Charles yes but I turned off sharpening in Epson Scan. Ticked off the box. Yes the 50mm lens look sharp though. I rather maybe prefer drum scanning than spend on additional holders and software. The older digital backs has some brownie points lol.

<p>Also now the D600 crop, at F16 also shot in RAW downloaded into LR with no adjustments at all. Ok, sharpening by default. But you can sharpen the film scan ... I just wanted to leave it as is so easier to assess (without subjective input by myself). </p><div></div>

<p>Les - no idea don't have a proper loupe.</p> <p>Edward and others - att. Film scan resetted sharpening.<br /><br />Ilford Delta 100 Pro @ Ilford ID-11 @ 20degrees Celsius @ 11 minutes as by the Ilford Data Sheet to the dot. </p><div></div>

<p>I've shot 35mm film and dSLRs and have just gone to 120 format. With 35mm I only have my flatbed scanner, I did have a Coolscan bought used but it broke down after 1 or 2yrs. The same is happening with 120 format. </p> <p>What are your guy's output and are you happy? </p> <p>With a digital camera you could really appreciate the quality because you download it and see it all. With a flatbed you don't get that with 135 or 120 format. I enjoy the nature of shooting film and all the steps involved its tonality. Do you just shoot film, maybe spend money on film holders and software and if it meets your final output you leave it as it rather than exploit it? It's like taking a D800 and accept D700 quality? Do you send it out for high end scanning?</p> <p>Cheers</p>

<p>It is the snappy sharpness that is not there. I have a Nikon D600 and the first thing I notice was if my Nikon could do that then what's the point shooting a 6x7 (RB67). It was shot on a tripod with mirror lock up.</p> <p>Not so concerned with the color or contrast yet etc yet as those can be adjusted and shadows can be lifted where required (more so than slides).</p> <p>Using Epson Scan software and the original film holders. With 35mm film I had more detail with a Nikon D2h (4MP). Both on tripod etc. Maybe for the important ones use a darkroom and have it printed there with my camera club old timer buddies or have the odd one drum scanned? Simply go the full hog than just get better film holders, better scanning software, better sharpening software? Go on a trip with a digital camera and take the medium format on specific important outings only?</p> <p>I bought a Coolscan 4000 some yrs ago off a pro maybe, but after a year or two it broke. And .. they are no longer sold / serviced. Should have got the Coolscan V new before but that doesn't address 120 film.</p> <p>If I print, its generally 11x17 inches or A3 / Super A3 and I would like it to be printed A2 (16x24) if the others enjoy like if I visit a place that was friends/family's hometown / country. But for now it is the sharpeness that is absent viewing the image inside my Lightroom catalogue. Seems like I could do the job easier and better with the D600 less the filmi tonality / and the film enjoyment.</p>

<p>Yes, it is a flatbed scanner. Guess the question is what do you guys consider the best solution for the average person? Medium format film. Ok, so it may not be a drum scanner or a hybrid scanner like a Imacon and fluid mounting can be messy so that's out too. Just look on a light table with a loupe? Darkroom printing with b/w film instead? For the few shots request drum scanning from a commercial place? </p> <p>Cheers ...</p>

<p>Thanks all. Impatient so I developed my first roll the same day as the shoot, all came back fine. Oh, RB67 Mamiya. I did go to a gallery and saw a Hasselblad felt like a toy in comparison haha. </p>

<p>I loaded my first ever 120 film today :) Good feeling. My curious question is that why line it up at the arrow? The first frame might be off but after each wind of the lever don't you get a fresh frame and a fresh frame and a fresh frame .....</p> <p>Cheers.</p>

<p>White square - what I mean is does it have the rangefinder framing square? You see the edge of the viewfinder which is outside of what is photographed as the person walks in the frame you can take the photo. With the film cameras what I understand is that, if you put a wide angle lens the frame lines covers more the VF surface area, if you pop on a telephoto lens the frames is more narrow .... Make sense? </p>

<p>Not familiar with your loader but many have clicks or counters. Mine has a 36 frame counter. When I have used that it gave me 34 exposures but Ilford film are much cheaper via bulk rolls. Half price approx.</p> <p>If you need measurements, after you process a roll yourself like b/w. Use a tape measure and measure it when it is hanged up drying. When you cut the film off the roll cut it right where it is taped to the plastic reel. </p>

<p>Hi all ...</p> <p>I had a try out with a tradeshow recently. Want to check with you guys. Re: the X Pro 2 - with the electronic viewfinder is it WYSIWYG? It also has a white square in the centre as people move into the frame? With the optical viewfinder it's not WYSIWYG right but does is there a white square under this mode also? </p> <p>With the XT-1 is the white square available? </p> <p>Thanks.</p>

<p>I do landscapes myself but not that much hiking. I've followed some pro's who have chosen to use F4 lenses. For travel I am outside most of the day I cannot see carrying too much equip. I am even looking at the idea of going with a mirrorless set up. I also find primes simpler like the 50mm equiv to full frame and the short tele's. With a car etc I can that I can use my Nikons easier ... Coming from a FM2n which I still use, the Fuji is really nice (XT1) I thin I'll enjoy that on travel with a 35mm = 50mm lens for travel. </p>

<p>This isn't travel per destination so I put it here as it can apply to travel as well as at home with some events going. Today we had event that runs a few days - asian food market. </p> <p>For someone who generally shoots off a tripod, I had my backpack, tripod, a dSLR and a film body and a few lenses. There wasn't any higher vantage points to really use that and very quickly that 20lbs pack and one hand always holding that tripod becomes an issue. </p> <p>You are at home or overseas. You plan to shoot some images off a tripod at various spots. In between you also plan to visit galleries, museums, malls, and of course the local street food markets where it can be crowded. Going to the hotel 2x a day to drop stuff off isn't possible, plus where your hotel is and where you end up may be a few stations away also. You rely on public transportation. </p> <p>Simply forget larger equipment as a blacklist? Spend a day just on photog and come back to hotel eat dinner there or near the hotel call it a day and alternate the next day doing tourist stuff with a point and shoot? Get a take away meal in a box and eat it while standing or sitting next to the tripod? Just do the photog stuff and forget being a tourist and forget experiencing the local stuff. <br> Thoughts? </p>

<p>Hi all, I have been shooting B/W film without filters so far. I hand process them in a tank and scan. Are the B/W filters like yellow, red etc still required or can they be done in software? I've been told they are still required, want to double check with you guys ...</p> <p>Ilford Delta 100 / HP5+, Fuji Acros 100 and I have access to Ilford ID-11, Rodinal (not yet used). <br /> Thanks.</p>

<p>How does one accurately envision a 1:3? Tripod, vertical orientation, go from left and overlap it from the left side to the right side that you want the camera to capture. Put it into Adobe or whatever, merge them. Set up a 1:3 an crop it. How accurate is this or is an expensive pano camera just less hassle? </p>

<p>Hi all</p> <p>Pano's are not something I do frequently. I have done in the past, the images look far too skinny. It was probably like 1:10 or something. </p> <p>If one wanted a 6x17 format with a dSLR. That's 1:3. Sometimes you maybe photographing things a bit closer and other times a bit further way like across the harbour where you have some skyscrapers. What lens to use? How many shots you do you take while you rotate that tripod head? </p> <p>Thanks.</p>

<p>New Zealand interestingly in 2006 the E6 processing were double the cost versus today. Maybe pro's just paid because they had to. C41 have since went from $6NZ to now $10NZ. </p>

Never request scanning. Scans off a frontier system at time of development prob cost $12us on top. $14us development. $12us or maybe $8us mounting. $28us roll of slides. It then adds up.

<p>New Zealand here. I import my film from the USA and export to Dwaynes it's still cheaper and cleaner and the slide mounts are free essentially. Interesting the film at Freestyle nowadays are cheaper than B&H. In the past B&H were cheaper but due to their min delivery charge for overseas the post was a min of $45US.</p> <p>For us it is about $6US per 135 or 120 develop only. E6 is $14US. C41 film is generally about $12US per roll for 135, E6 is like $28US per roll. Mounting is actually extra, the film comes sleeved. Mounting cost like $12US more per roll. I don't know who does sheet film now, the lab that used to do it packed up and was bought by someone else, also their lambda machine broke down they didn't bother to fix it. I guess for us in the capital city, we need to courier it 800Km away they do sheet film.</p> <p>I know that b/w film developing is quite cheap but for some reasons the labs here charge more than C41 probably on par with E6 if you ask them to develop your b/w. From last chat with them they used Xtol so on that note they would prob use a general develop, D76 or ID11. I can get a 1L of ID11 powder for about $10US. Yeah the stop bath, the fixer etc .. all tend to be about 2x the cost of USA. Prob cannot liquids in the post or take back in person. The stop last 5yrs away expiry that is after opened, the fixer 2yrs I think could go longer. I think I will just bring back the powder developers when I go overseas. It's just the cost of living here I suppose.</p> <p>On the flip side you can get 2nd hand film gear cheaper than USA here cos few people here shoot film. Digital stuff are more popular and the diff to the USA is like maybe 20%. </p>

<p>Hi all, I am just looking around. When I get a new computer I would probably have to upgade the calibrator. The system and all is from 2009. Curious to know how many color patches is when I do the printer calibration? I've googled my way around and haven't found an answer to this. </p> <p>Cheers.</p>

<p>Thanks. Generic it is. Super cheap they are.</p>

<p>Perfect. Francisco that worked as a treat. :) Kindest regards.</p>

<p>Hi, this is all I see ...</p><div></div>

<p>Hi all</p> <p>I got a kit without a lens cap been looking on eBay and they run for about $20US. What do you guys use? Diff brands even like a Canon / Nikon or generic brands I see Aliexpress have some non brand caps. <br> Also you you guys use the body cap at all or do you just leav a lens attach on it? What about the film back cap?</p> <p>Cheers, many thanks. :)</p>

<p>Hi, I have been watching videos on youtube re: editing. There is a graduated filter tool under develop and there is a temp and tint control you can do.</p> <p>I have LR4. So I downloaded the LR5 Trial version and I cannot see that new feature. I added the grad filter on my image. All I see is the exposure control, saturation etc .. under the EFFECTS title words ... The Youtube video the guy was using LR5.</p> <p>Any thoughts?</p>