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<p>Does anyone know what is going on with Custom Color in Vancouver? Their website no longer has a phone number listed, and the contact info now lists a P.O. Box in Burnaby. I was going to drop off some 120 film at London Drugs that was to be sent to Custom Color, but they told me something is going on with Custom Color right now and they don't know when or if they can send products to them again. Does this mean I'll have to use ABC Lab for all my medium format, slide, and B&W work now? Or is this all a sign of the times with labs closing from lack of business?</p>

<p>I feel kinda jipped when I sold my Pentax 6x7 MLU with AE Prism. I only got $290 with that including a 105 lens. Of course this was 2 years ago. I have since replaced it with a Pentax 67II.</p>

<p>Walmart here in Canada doesn't keep the negatives, but does give them back to the customer. That said they all use cheap Kodak dry print printers to make prints from negatives. And they look like crap compared to the Noritsu Walmart Canada used to use. That said it won't matter anymore, because as of Jan 31st next year, Walmart Canada is no longer developing film at all, and there is no send out service either. So here in my town, that leaves London Drugs the only place left to do film.</p>

<p>The lab I work in is getting slower by each year. We are half as busy as we were even 2 years ago. We still have our C41 processor, but that is getting shut off for ever as of February first. I was always know as the film guy in the lab, as I've been in the lab for pretty much 16 years now. I really don't like dry prints from the current machines, especially our printer. It really doesn't hold up to chemical prints. People noticed the quality difference and we lost business as a result. Our lab's days are numbered, as is my job there.</p>

<p>I currently have a Pentax 67II with the 55mm, 135mm macro, and 300mm lenses. I'm debating what lens to get in between the 55 and 135mm. I used to own a 105mm long ago, but I'm wondering if I should get a 90mm or even a 75mm to fill in the gap better? Which normal lens is the better lens- the 90mm or 105mm? The 75mm might be a bit too wide, but having a 105 and 135mm so close to each other- well. The 75mm lenses are quite cheap now on Ebay, while the other two are still a bit expensive for used lenses. What you think?</p>

<p>I don't do a lot of photography these days. But when it is something special like a trip somewhere, I still like to use film. I sold off some of my Pan X a few years ago, and then ended up buying more in the last year. I like this film, but it does tend to have larger grain due to aging, then other slower films. It looks good, but as said grain can be large for a 32ISO film.</p>

<p>Everywhere I go, the techs that used to work on these, don't anymore. Because its getting difficult to get any parts for these cameras anymore. I have resorted to getting another AE prism for my camera, which is the only way to improve the appearance instead of replacing the part I wanted to. And because parts are nill, many won't do a CLA, in case it does need parts.</p>

<p>I actually diid both methods and they couldn't give me an answer. They wanted me to send it in for an estimate. I'd rather have a little idea on what aa typical CLA costs before I send it in.</p>

<p>I have a Pentax 67II that I'd like to do a CLA (clean, lube, adjust) on and I'm thinking to sending it to Ricoh Canada which services Pentax now. Anyone have any idea of a ballpark figure of what the cost to do this would be?</p>

<p>That was it Harry. I tried X and sure enough it worked. I always thought X was for manual flashes, not dedicated flashes. I also have a Pentax 67II camera, and it also uses this same flash, with dedicated cable. So it too must be set to X, though I haven't used it on the 67 yet.</p>

<p>I took some pics with my Pentax 645N and a Pentax 540 Flash. I had the camera set to automatic, and the flash on the switch to the left. Yet for some reason my flash did not go off, and the camera didn't recognize the flash as being on, as the shutter speed ended up being really slow.</p> <p>What should I check to make sure the flash is working? I bought it used, so there is a chance the flash is defective.</p>

<p>Yes our lab mainly does digital files, but Im not sure if we will still take negatives or not. That Im not sure of. As for running my own lab, well no, there is no money in labs anymore. Our lab is very slow a lot of the time as is, I know what we make per day, and the store itself subsidizes the lab to stay open. We couldn't make it on our own. Problem is- most people don't print their digital pictures anymore, but keep them on their Facebook, etc. Just go look at what photo-albums are left for sale anymore. If it weren't for the fact we sell cameras (also way down lately), we would no longer be in business.</p>

<p>I work in a photolab in a large retail outlet. Been there for almost 16 years now. We finally got word we are no longer developing film. For a while there we were told we wanted to be the last one standing when it comes to film. Not the case now. There is another chain that will still be doing film after us. Our lab has cut the services we do for customers, our manager was let go, and our hours have gone down. We're thinking this could be the beginning of the end for us. But for now we still have a job at the lab. I still use film, mostly B&W and E-6. Rarely do I use C41, since I have a digital that I can use for that. I was always a film supporter in our lab, and now its time to say goodbye. That said when we went to a dry lab 4 years ago, the quality of scans we did off film went down in quality, so Im not entirely sad to see us no longer do film.</p>

<p>I scanned a bunch of older color negatives some years ago on a Noritsu film scanner. Color correction was done, but some negatives didn't fare so well. What I noticed were the ones that faded the quickest (in terms of dyes) were Konica. Not far from Konica I found negatives from Fuji from the 80s and 90s fading quite a bit. The negatives that faded the least were Kodak. Matter of fact- I used Kodak Gold 100 for the majority of my rolls and these negatives held up very well from the 80s and 90s. Hardly any fading at all. I would expected better from Fuji to be honest. What have you guys noticed?</p>

Looking into getting some old stock of this. I have not used this yet myself. Judging from responses from others, I've decided to give this one a try. What is PRN closest in look to? Scott Eaton mentioned it is a high color saturated film. Is this more or the same as say the Royal Gold films, or maybe Gold 100? Also what is the exact PGI of this film? I may have seen 36 or something somewhere. Is this close to Reala in look? And how was this film for use with Portraits? Any comments on this film would be great. Im looking into getting it in 120 rolls.