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The Ansco lens board is 1/2" thick.

Got some info from another site. Apparently its mounted on a flange. Im told all I'd need is longer screws. What screws would you suggest for the Ansco wood board?

The Ansco lensboard is extremely thick. I dont know if mounting would be possible with my combo?

I just received this lens off a Japanese seller on Ebay. I didn't notice it in the pictures, but this lens is mounted to the Toyo lens board via 4 screws instead of 1 retainer ring. Is this common practice? Getting those nuts off will be difficult to start. My concern is this will be mounted to a wood 6x6 board and the thickness of the wood may cause issues with the studs. I dont think the studs look that long, as the Toyo board is quite thin. Would a retaining ring even work mounted to an Ansco 6x6 lens board? Im concerned I may not be able to remount this on my needed board. What does anyone suggest? Also if it was necessary, could the studs even be removed? I wonder if my wood lensboard would need the thickness around the hole reduced to get this to work?

The light leak was a sliver of light in the middle of the sheet. So yes I seem to remember I did something with the dark bag that would have caused that. All my holders are fine, as they worked fine before and I used two holders for my B&W sheets.

I got my sheets of 4x5 film back and every 4 sheets shows light leak on them. I realized I may have done that when I first opened the box and put them in the holders while in the changing bag. Dont ask me how. If light got in while the box was open, what are the chances the whole box is fogged? Or if not, how many sheets down should I go before the remaining amount will be okay? I figured a stack of sheets on top of each other might help protect the ones below? What are my chances I still have some good sheets? Its a box of 50 and only 10 or less sheets have been used.

I have read in previous posts that suggest these two films are indeed the same film and not a different coated film on the same machinery as GP3. One giveaway was the 120 Catlabs X80 roll film comes with GP3 paper. Another used a densitometer to test both films and the results were very similar. Being one film is 100 ISO and the other 80 ISO, can one suggest they are the same? Anyone have any other proof to say they are the same film? I see on Ebay GP3 for sale in fresh boxes going up to 2022. I was wondering to buy it direct instead of going CatLabs route to basically buy a reboxed film? Has the imperfections in GP3 been resolved with current production, including the issue with pinholes in the sheet film? I know 120 has backing paper issues with the tape, but thats on both brands and current as well. Some used to say GP3 was similar to Kodak Plus X, while Catlabs X80 would say its similar to Panatomic X. Those two films have quite a different look, especially in mid tones. If X80 and GP3 are said to be the same film, how could the comparison Kodak film be so different?

Its been suggested that Arista Premium was in fact Plus X motion picture film, and not the still film. Any facts support this claim?

I know Arista Premium 100 film is just Kodak Plus X rebranded. By why did they rate the Arista film 100 instead of 125? Also are developing times pretty much the same between the two or are they different because of the film speed difference? Should I rate the film at 125 like its supposed to be, or just 100? I picked up a couple rolls of this stuff, and like to know how to use them.

Well the acetone didn't do much damage to the plastic. It just made a dark spot in the area used. Im not sure if cleaning it would clear that up. That said its done.

I was advised to remove the tape. I had some Acetone and some Qtips, so I removed as much of the tape as I could and used acetone to clean it up with what remained.

The two film holders I got so far, came with what looks like double sided sticky tape put in the center of the holder. I can see this would help make the film flatter when exposing, but getting the film out proved a real issue when I tried. One of the holders came with film in them, so when I tried pulling the film out, it was still stuck to the tape. Granted the tape isn't so bad it would never come off, but Im debating whether I should remove the tape. I don't want to be bending or wrestling with pulling back out the sheet of film while its in the dark bag. I threw out those two sheets of film I had in the holder. So what do you think- should I remove the tape? At first I thought the holders came like this, but on inspection of a second holder, the tape was not all there.

Well I shot one roll of it so far on my 6x7 camera. But I bracketed some shots, so I really only got a few real images from the roll. Im waiting till I can afford to send all my rolls in for developing. That will take some time, as I have other things on my plate at the moment.

I have some 4x5 Pan X from 1969. I have high hopes its still good. Yet to dig into it. I shot my two rolls of film (Pan X and Catlabs X80). So now I just have to get them developed and scanned to see if there is a difference. My Pan X roll was dated 1991.

I've never had an issue using Pan X at box speed, even today. It certainly doesn't age or fog like other films, other then grain might get larger over time. I received my boxes of Catlabs X 80. Now to find a day when it isn't raining here and a day off, to go and shoot the two rolls to test.

CatLABS X 80 Film Review — The Codex

I remember reading about this film over a year ago, and quickly forgot about it. Freestyle has just added this to their menu of films, and I'm curious about using it. They haven't received their stock in yet, but apparently other stores have received some rolls. I saw a short YouTube video of it by one guy. They claim this film is close in look to the old Kodak Panatomic X. The Pan X film is one of my favorites, so having another film close to it interests me. They have the new film available in 120, 4x5, and 8x10. And the pricing for it is really very reasonable compared to other films. Im curious how it will also look compared to Adox CHS II 100. Has anyone used the new CatLabs X 80 film yet? If so, show some samples and explain how you like it. I started to do some Photography video blogging on YouTube, so I may just get some of this film, and shoot it along with some Pan X film I have in my freezer to compare. Somehow I think it might be hard to still beat Kodaks old film. After all- 32 ISO and 80 ISO are marked changes. But I'd like to give it a shot (literally).

You can see the price increase now in some stores. Freestyle isn't open again till the new year, and their website already shows the new price. Kodak Portra 160 8x10 went from $154 to $189. That's a 18.5% increase ($35).

I have not yet used this film, but people compare it to Tri-X 400 and Neopan 400. I have heard people rate it at slower speeds then 400. Some do it at 320, some at 200, some even at 160 ISO. What speed are you finding the best with this film? And do you still develop it at 400 ISO times? Ive read at 400 ISO, developing time can be 17 minutes for some developers. I have also read they recommend to prewash this film for 1 minute before developing. Any comments on the above or of this film in general? I will be getting some in 5x7 format.

I managed to get this effect using Efke 25 roll film on an overcast, but slightly sunny day back in 2004. It gave my lady model a darker skin tone, as if she had a dark tan. But on later attempts, I wasn't able to replicate this dark skin tone look. Some B&W pictures I see this effect at times for no reason. I love it when B&W film gives the person a kind of glow with their skin, showing many different tones on their face. Im told Im looking for the Olive complexion look. So that said, how best do I get this effect? I was using a Pentax 6x7 with an old 1970s 105mm Takumar lens, which had older coatings on it. The sunlight was just peaking through the clouds, as it was around 10:30AM, giving a little light on the subject. But shutter speeds were indeed low (since 25ASA film), with a lower lighting situation. I used a tripod as well. First off, do I really need to use an ortho-pan or orthochromatic film to get this look? Or will any B&W film do?

Since film is starting to bounce back and have a bit of a resurgence, and now that Adox with Mirko finally have most of their pieces in place to produce their own film, is their any chance we might see Efke 25 return, possibly named Adox CHS II 25? I loved this film and have a small stash of it, but not in all formats I use. Plus one day it will run out. It seemed to me the 25 speed film was the sweet spot in the Efke lineup. Anyone else miss this film (minus the problems it had in manufacture)?

Reading this thread today, what currently available film most closely mimics Super XX, grain size not withstanding? Or is there even a substitute at all?

Found serial number. Its above the name plate.

I picked up an earlier model Yashica A TLR 6x6 camera. It comes with the Yashimar lenses. On both lenses I see separate serial numbers, but no where on the camera do I see a serial number for the camera itself. Where do I locate that? Or do they even come with serial numbers? I picked this up for a cheap 6x6 camera, though I already have a Holga in the same format. I have better 120 cameras, so this one is just for fun. Is the lens coated with decent coatings on these? Or am I asking too much for the mid 50s?

I cant afford a higher end UV filter at this time, so I have these two brands here with me currently. The lens its going on is a Nikon 20mm f1.8G. 77mm thread. I have an older Tiffen UV filter with the thick ring and what looks like a glass element. I also have a Polaroid Multicoated UV filter in this same thread. Which one of the two is the better filter? I know Tiffen is not really that great of a filter, but the price of the Polaroids, I'd think the same of them. The only difference I can see is the Polaroid is mentioned as multicoated and the ring isn't as wide. I have used the Tiffen on the lens and it does not vignette. I cant say the Tiffen is very good for flare. I know I can just not use a filter at all, which I can just remove it if I wanted, but I'd like to keep my new lens protected for the time being. Also since I still use film, UV comes in handy.