rick_jack1

If you can find a Hasselblad 501CM setup for under $1k go for it, I'd avoid the older models, most are beat up. I love the Bronica SQ-A system for $1k you can wind up with a body, AE finder, 4 lenses, and several backs. For $1k you could even get a nice Bronica GS-1 6x7 system. IMO it handles much nicer in the field than the Mamiya and the lenses are tack sharp. Everyone is going to tell you their camera is better. Do your own homework, handle them all then make the choice.

Hi, The Autocord was a great camera but the Rollie's and Mamiyaflex TLR's were tough competition. I agree with the 7.5mm it was fun when you got an idea where to use it, I got much more use from the 16mm. I'm slowly buying back the lenses I loved, my latest find that I never owned was the 28mm f2 MC Rokkor-X, it is a fantastic lens. One of these days I'm going to do a field comparison between it and my 28mm f2 Nikkor. I'll throw in a 28mm Leica, Olympus, Takumar, & Canon while I'm at it. Upside Down by Rick_Jack red forest by Rick_Jack Glad these great lenses are still being enjoyed (even if it's on a Sony A7RII).

Bargains come up all the time on Ebay. You need to check the new listings every morning. Some nice equipment is often gone in the first few hours of posting because they were listed as "buy it now" and the price was too low. Change search wording around as well, I've gotten different hits looing for Nikon vs Nikkor More important though is read the fine print. Some sellers "has some dust, normal" has turned out to be fungus. Situations like that will handled as "not as described or damaged" and Ebay will make good, but you'll waste time and possibly shipping costs. If you find a mint lens it might be worth it to pay a little extra. Best of luck finding your lens.

That was my favorite film. I loved it in 120. I usually developed it in Microdol but I would often use Rodinal and print it on Agfa grade 6 paper producing images that looked like pen and ink drawings. If Kodak brought it back I'd buy enough to last my lifetime. So far Ilford Pan F plus is the only film that makes me feel as good.

Something unexpected.... I did a comparison of the cameras I own using old fashion NBS test targets. Using the same lens and setup in every case my D700 resolved about 56 l/mm and my D750 about 80 l/mm (both below theoretical) but was unexpected was that my wife's D3400 (with 24mp sensor) resolved better than my D750 (also 24mp). I guess it's because of smaller pixels. The D750 is definitely the lowest noise body I've used, better than the D810. I've read the same facts on the web and the Df is considered to be the best as far as low noise. I think Nikon's decision to keep the D5's sensor 20mp was based on noise and frame speed. Through the years I've been very pleased with all of my Bikon DSLR's, I just wish Nikon would offer a loyalty discount when upgrading to a new model. .I had to buy a new computer and upgrade Photoshop to handle my larger files and newer version RAW files. These things are getting expensive to keep up with.

I don't like it (any versions), I don't like it's corner performance at 24mm or 120mm plus it's bulky. I tried one and went back to my 24-85mm f4-5.6 ED AFS and often take my 180mm AFD or 70-210mm f4-5.6 AFD along. Depends on what subjects you shoot. Just my opinion

I haven't read everything, my D750 is almost a year old and never had any issues. How are the shutters failing (totally dead, wrong exposures)? I'm curious as a warning sign. My serial number was above the recall numbers. thanks

Last year I upgraded my D700 to a D750 and the difference was like night and day, much more than I expected. Now my primes look better than my zooms, unfortunately some of my wide primes show their flaws. I chose the 750 because of it's size, the D810 is definitely better but heavier than my D700. When I place my D750 or D700 next to my old Nikon FA I miss the old days when cameras didn't have to be big and a medium size camera case could hold the camera and five lenses. Shooting with these DSLR's and modern AFS lenses is like carrying my medium format equipment.

It does sound broken. With the back removed you should be able to turn the wind knob about two turns and then feel a clunk, then fire it. Did you turn the knob hard enough to feel that clunk? It does feel like your going to break it but that is normal. Give it one more try, if it's already broken your not going to damage anything. S2A & EC bodies are very reasonable on Ebay, hope you or your friend doesn't need one.

I enjoy wet printing as well but I no longer process color because of cost and the difficulty of finding R4a chemistry (not to forget about disposal). Scanning prints that you or a lab processed or shooting those prints with a DSLR will not produce optimum results. Negatives must be scanned at the highest resolution possible using software that will remove dust and scratches. You can settle for a $750 flat bed that will scan your negatives at 3600dpi or spend thousands for a drum scanner, and of course have a lab scan them for $10/frame (high res) which is no fun at all. My Nikon scanner will scan at 4000dpi, I send that file to the pro lab that I used for 30 years and they do a very nice job. They get about $15 for a 16x20 and I no longer have to waste enlarging paper because I missed a few specks of dust or wrong exposure. I only wet print with virgin negatives that are free of defects. I try to get out at least once a week with one of my MF cameras, I usually shoot TMY2, Ektar 100, or Portra 400. The grain is almost invisible in a 16x20. Hope your all enjoying your cameras!

I didn't notice the date. I guess someone does a search and finds a post they can relate to and adds their two cents. I got pulled in as well. Thanks for they eye opener.

Yes, both AI & AIs optics are the same but you have a better chance of getting a cleaner one with the AIs. I had one and sold it because I was getting better images with my 300mm f4 EDIF AF-D and it's much easier to hand hold. I also own the 400mm F3.5 EDIF Ais that you can often find cheaper because people want the f2.8. And I'll never part with my 600mm f5.6 EDIF AIs which is as sharp as my 50mm. I use all of these for astrophotography wide open and they are fantastic lenses. But this is the wrong time of year to shop for one (any Nikkor), the best time is right before Christmas when people are hurting for money and give them away. Both 400 & 600 were found for about $700 each in excellent condition with cases. This time of year they are almost double. Shop wisely.

TLR or SL66? On the SL66 if the mirror angle is slightly off what you see in the viewfinder will be different from your final image. TLR....I'd bring it back to who did the CLA or another shop.

It takes practice, follow the video again. Those backs sux, buy some of the newer backs, those are the first version. What version ETRS did they sell you? The older had a metal body and the lens release was not on the top right corner.

I'd buy (and did) the 70-210 f4-5.6 AF-D instead. It's not as well built but if you care for your equipment you'll have no issues with it. Once stopped down it is as sharp as the 70-200 f2.8.

Only Fun at this point. Image quality of my 6x7 can no longer match my DSLR. But it is fun and I find the 6x6 format magical and try to find reasons to use it now and then. Just make sure that you own a top notch film scanner that handles 120 or all bets are off.

I bought my D700 when it was released (2009?) and was very pleased with but have since upgraded. The D700 is an excellent body you'll love it. I recommend buying the Nikon eyepiece magnifier DK-17M (~ $40), it will give you a larger view through your viewfinder. Once I put it on it became part of my camera and has not been off since. 12mp is enough for 20x30" prints once processed in Photoshop or Lightroom. I agree with the person who said the 28-105mm AF-D was a sleeper, so is the 24-85 AFS. The real sleeper is the 70-210 f4-5.6 AF-D. While it sells for about $100 used it will match the 70-200 f2.8 ED's performance once it's stopped down to f8. If you don't need to shoot at f2.8 and want a very light and compact zoom have a look at one. At f8 it is difficult to see a difference between it and my 180mm f2.8 ED AF-D. I also agree with statements about the 135mm lenses. My 135mm f2 AIs is stunning even at f2, I use it for concerts. From what I've read the 135mm f2 DC is that much better. My only complaint is the new line of fast wide angles are huge and heavy (besides the cost). The older AIs lenses are only OK with my D700 & D750, with the 28mm f2 probably being the best overall wide (close tie with the 35/1.4). My 24mm f3.5 TC-E is excellent but awkward to carry around and usually requires a tripod to take advantage of it. It's much sharper than my 24/2 AI. The biggest disappointment was the 24-120mm (all versions). Whenever you have a zoom that offers more that 3x magnification of it's lowest focal length something has to give. The quality at extremes is usually soft wide open and even stopped down at the corners. But the Gold Ring ED lenses like the 12-24, 24-70, and 70-200 f2.8's are all excellent, but heavy, bulky, and expensive. That is the price we pay for excellence. Hope your out enjoying it!

I've looked into the Nikon conversions and it involves swapping the rear lens mount, I can handle that but swapping back and forth is impracticable. Since I own over 40 Nikkors there is no advantage in doing so just to please my curiosity. I prefer to use my 35mm SLR's as intended to be used, with film, then scanning. I also have the option of a Sony A7r and adapter. I'd still like to own a M6 someday.

Thanks for all the great replies. I own a R6 and a few lenses but have rarely used them. Fault of my own, combination of lazy and time. I bought it when prices dropped but use Nikon DSLR's professionally, nothing mounts on a Nikon, not like Canon. Your posts have inspired me to put some Velvia in it and take it along on my next trip. Best regards, Rick

This should be a no brained. It's going to come down to how often you shoot, they type of film and if your a cheapskate. If you shoot often then it pays to buy bulk, but these days 100' of good film is often $125+ US. If it's color will you be processing it yourself or getting your film cassettes returned. There is cheap film out there but it's only good for testing equipment. 70mm is out of the question these days with most stores requiring you to order 5 or more long rolls in advance and waiting weeks for it. I still stock 3 types of B&W 35mm in bulk and process it myself. TMY2 has just gone up to $129 for 100'. While I might save a few dollars doing it this way individual rolls make more sense because I can keep what I'm not using frozen (I don't freeze my bulk). The bottom line here....if you don't use it before it expires you didn't save any money.

Cool old camera, great in it's day. If your a collector go for it if that is what you like. I don't understand the comparison to a 35mm film camera. I'd go for a 24mp DSLR that can take stills or video and not have to be concerned about film or processing. Without knowing you I can't give you advise other than to buy what suits your needs and makes you happy.

I have to check my FA, but it's loaded with film. I have had my camera since 1998 and have never had any problems with it and it never let me down. It might be a waffle, but what is wrong with that? It might have to do with the speeds that camera is capible of. A 1/250 flash synch and I think 1/4000 second. In matrix mode that camera will meter a dark scene and expose for minute and get it right if it has to. Cameras on EBay are another story. You never know what your getting unless it's coming from a camera store like KEH, Roberts, or Adorama. There are too many estate sale buyers and sellers who pass on damaged goods as excellent. If they use the excuse that the camera was not tested, pass on it. A battery costs about $3 in Walmart. Many cameras come from very dirty or humid locations, it might look good on the outside and even have a high serial number, but it could be full of mildew which is effecting the electronics. The FA is one of Nikon's best MF bodies, Rockwell got it right for a change. It's a shame you got a bad one.

I know the rangefinders are king in this forum but does anyone still use a R series? I always seem to get the impression that the M glass is better, for example is the 90mm f2.8 Elmarit really that much better in the M series or is that just boasting? Rangefinders are just not my style, I've shot with SLR's for 50 years. Just curious.

One of these days I will invest in a Mirrorless camera that can adapt my Rokkors. But from my experience using old Takumar, Leica-R, Olympus, and other great old film camera lenses on my Canon DSLR they don't perform as well as they did with film. I don't remember the physics about it but it has to do with the size of the rear element and optical design of the lens. Light rays strike the sensor at angles that cause fringe and detieroate image quality. Even some of my best Nikon lenses are dogs on my D750. Lenses over 50mm seem to be OK. But I have found that telephoto lenses were not Minolta's strong suit. The Rokkor 85mm's, 100mm's, 200mm f2.8, and 400mm APO are very good but the others are middle of the road. I shot between 21 & 85mm most of the time when using my Minolta bodies and always got first class results. I love my XD-11 but looking back at my best images most were made using my XK. I think the heavy body helped me hold it steadier. I own all the body's from SR-7 through XD-11 (but sold my SRM). When Minolta switched their logo changing the "O" it looked silly and turned me off. I didn't want a Maxim so I switched to Nikon which turned out to be a wise move because I can use every lens I bought on their newest DSLR. I have plenty of Ektar 100 film for my Minolta bodies, the hard part is choosing which one to use. Right now it's my XE7. When I scan my film at 4800dpi I can almost match my best digital. It's good enough for me because I'm having fun The real hard decision is which one of my MF camera systems goes along for the ride. I need to be 20 again to be strong enough to carry all this stuff. Thanks for everyone's replies and keep posting Minolta stories.