rick_jack1

BTW...I used KEH on several old lenses and a Leica and they were fine. But I would give your job to Nikon.

I wouldn't fix it till it's broke and put the money to a newer body like a 850. How on earth have you run up 102,00 frames?

Very nice images. Nice choice of cameras. I very rarely shoot B&W in digital, I have gone back to carrying my old Bronica EC-TL with a bag full of Nikkor lenses for my B&W work. The latest version of Kodak TMY2 is fantastic in terms of tones, almost grainless, and sharpness. I develop my own film and scan them. My DSLR comes along for my color work, it's a wonderful combination and very enjoyable. One of these days I have to try TMY2 in 35mm.

Hi Kent, Since you mentioned astrophotography, that is what got me started in photography way back when. How does the 20mm f1.8 perform with a modified sensor (clear glass with UV/IR Hutech filter). I usually use lenses longer than 85mm but now and then I want to capture the Milky way or large objects in Ha. I'll be picking up a D850 after the dust settles, I expect after 6 months it will be down to $3k. For the sky, I found the old 20mm fr2.8 Ais to be better than the newer 20mm AF-D, so much for Nikon saying the optics are the same. regards, Rick

I agree with the lens shade. Filters deteriorate your image. My C3 came with a press on filter holder that screwed open to accept Series #? filters. They didn't screw in.

Depends if you own and plan on using a Yashica TLR that this lens will fit. If you do, I'd keep it. You not talking about a lot of money here, but if you should change your mind someday I'm sure it would be hard to find another for $30.

I am considering purchasing a Nikon 20mm f1.8 AFS. I own and have used the 20mm f2.8 AF-D, 20mm f2.8 Ais, and 20mm f3.5 Ais and I'm not impressed with their overall sharpness from center to corners. According to many online reviews the new 20mm f1.8 is supposed to be much better . I will mainly be using it at f5.6-8 at subjects at infinity. At the moment I'm using a D750 but probably upgrade to the D850 in the future. Has anyone here used that lens or done a comparison? Please no posts telling me to use a Zeiss or some other brand. I prefer to use Nikon glass on my Nikon. Thanks. Rick

Sell it on Astromart or Ebay or wait for the 2024 eclipse. They are used for sunspots etc.

Never heard of him. LOL

Use a film scanner such as a plustek opticfilm 8200ai. Slide copiers went out in the 1990's. A scanner will give you uniform lighting, corner to corner sharpness, color temperature control, dust, scratch, and grain reduction and leave you with a file that you can archive or print to over 24 x36" depending on the image and film. Not to mention instant image preview and not having to develop film.

The mirror in the photo is fugly! Reflex mirrors are first surface and can be cleaned with care. It's the same procedure for astronomical mirrors. Using surgical cotton (not a q-tip), Use latex gloves to handle the cotton. Make a small ball of cotton (~1/4") and hold it with tweezers. Make a very diluted solution of water and dish washing soap, luke warm. With the cotton ball wet glide it along the mirrors surface with very little friction covering the entire area. Go over it again with a ball dipped in water (distilled is even better) until the surface is clean. Most dirt should be removed, there is nothing that can be done for a damaged coating. Using a can of clean air blow the mirror dry. Keep can upright. This is the procedure I used when I worked for Olympus camera. For mirrors like the one in the photo, replace it.

I.agree, Metz flashes are very good. Why not simply use the built in flash? If your planning on doing some serious work, the way to go is off camera flash on a flip bracket and I would recommend Quantum or Metz with a Stroboframe bracket. Forget the hot shoe Nikon strobes. Give the built in flash a chance and save your money for a good flash setup if the majority of your work is with flash.

Look at Stroboframe brackets, they have brackets for just about every combination. They also sell adapter kits for less common cameras/flashes. Consider a flip style that will keep the flash on top for horizontal or vertical shots. If you want plain, simple and cheap, try Ebay.

I love my D750, FX is the way to go if you print large. DX is better if you do a lot of telephoto work shooting remote subjects and need that extra 1.5x. Have you read up on the newly announced D850? You might want to wait. BTW my previous camera was a D700 and I was amazed how much better the image quality and lower noise the D750 was. D700 vs D750: Nikon D700 vs D750 by Rick_Jack

It should work provided it can be used in a manual mode and adapt to your PC connection. I doubt any of the automatic features would work. I highly recommend you to pick up a used Metz CT1-4 strobe (very cheap these days) and a Stroboframe flash bracket for medium format cameras. It will hold the flash up above the camera where it belongs for portraits or group photography. I wouldn't attempt a small flash like a Nikon. I shot weddings for over 20 years with Bronica's and Metz strobes.

LOL...I still own my S2A, even winding it will wake the dead. The answers you received were correct, those lines are for 645 composition. Hope your enjoying your Bronica.

Save your money and go for the AI. I'm sorry I sold mine. The AIs is only sharper at 10' and closer, at infinity they are the same. If money were no option I'd suggest the 28mm f2 AI which is the best 28mm at infinity (except for the 28mm f1.4 AFD and the new AFS models). If your lucky you can find a 28/2 AI for about the same price as a 28/2.8 AIs. It's great for IR work as well, no hot spot.

I agree, great thread. I use a 105mm f5.6 EL Nikkor and PB-6 bellows with full frame digital It gives you great working distance, with tack sharp images. It's not as convenient as using one of my micro-nikkors but it's fun. Aspirin Bottle by Rick_Jack Aspirins by Rick_Jack

I've used and owned them all at one time, but never used them on digital. I used the 85mm f1.7 MC Rokkor-X which would be roughly a 105mm with your sensor, I like the extra working distance. You can save a hell of a lot of money using the old 58mm f1.4 instead of the f1.2. It's not as sharp as the newer 50mm's and gives creamy backgrounds which is great for portraits. My 50mm f1.2 gives very smooth boken but not as smooth as the older 58mm f1.2. All of the 50-58mm Rokkors are sharp at f4-8, but you don't need tack sharp lenses for portraits. I'm sure you realize it's the photographer that makes the image and lighting and composition are more important than the equipment. If cost is a factor, you can't go wrong with a 58mm f1.4. Since it's an old lens hunt down newer MCII version without any fungus or scratches. They are about $50. I still use one with film. I prefer natural window lighting and will often use a diffusion, sand, fog, or center sharp filter. I'm a semi-retired wedding/event photographer other than my own family shots my portraits were in medium format. Experiment and have fun.

Try 126, just like your other cameras. :-) Good glass rarely depreciates, so choose your system based upon the lenses you want to use. Whatever medium.

Not unless it is an unusual situation, backlighting, concerts, and depends on the camera. With digital I preview and compensate if needed, with film I bracket.

If your 55mm is still useable use it as is and don't duplicate the focal length. The 50mm f1.8 AF is a great lens for under $80. Though not as well built as older AIs lenses. Any of the 28mm AI/AIs lenses are great as is the 105mm f2.5 AIs as a starter kit. The 28-105mm AF-D is a wonderful inexpensive lens, once stopped down its as good as the primes. For interiors your going to have to spend more...the 24/2, 28/2, and 35/2& 1.4 are all great.

I've sold many 16x20 prints made with my 18-70 Nikkor when I shot DX. The 24-85 ED AFS is very good as well. There are always the 20mm f2.8 AF-D, you might find one for under $300.

The 24-70 is a great pro lens. Heavy and pricey. If you need to shoot at f2.8 and get good corner performance it's the way to go. I didn't. I get results that are just as good (once stopped down to f8) with my 24-85 f3.5-4.5 AFS. For landscape photography stick with primes. I love my 24mm f3.5 PC-E for landscapes, it's much better than the zooms.

46mp & $3300. Glad I didn't buy an 810 recently. I will give this some thought.