Ken Katz

Since both images have a sharp straight shadow on the bottom 1/3rd of the image, its unclear to me if that is just a harsh ambient shadow or caused by using flash with a shutter speed above the 1/125th sync speed of your camera. Since one image is purported to be done without flash, then I can't tell the difference between them. Advantage's of used an EOS dedicated flash is that the camera will not exceed it's maximum sync shutter speed, even when using "P" or "A" modes. The camera may also be smart enough to do daylight balanced flash without any manual calculation. Early EOS SLR's could not handle high voltage flash sync, and some early Vivitar flash units may exceed such limitations and damage the camera. Don't know if the 650 was susceptible to that, or what flash you used, but my Elan IIe can't tolerate flash sync voltage over 6V. To lighten the weight, try non-rechargeable lithium AA batteries, which are much lighter than alkaline. Rechargeable batteries can also be lighter. I would guess that Canon has not authorized lithium batteries, and is unlikely to test it out on such ancient devices. I don't see much risk (but I could certainly be wrong).

The 200 MP claim by Samsung is correct, but with regard to getting anything near that in useable resolution, its utter BS and total marketing hype. But at the end of the day, do most folks who just want images of family, friends, and vacations need much more than a late model smartphone? These are not PN readers and do not have a subscription to Adobe Creative Cloud. We are going to Europe next month with friends, and they will be leaving their 18 mp Canon Rebel + Tamron superzoom at home and rely on an Iphone 14 pro for imaging. I am sure they will be happy with the results. It call also be used to look up restaurant reviews, call an Uber, check on the weather, text, email, and even make calls.

Bronx Zoo Bird - Olympus EM-5 III / 40-150mm F5.6

Really informative video on Kodak's current financial situation. Certainly much better use of my time than personally going through their financial statements. Its quite clear that film production is not the activity that is keeping the lights on in Rochester. Also interesting that it is likely that Kodak is producing film under contract for Fuji, for the US market. Saw Oppenheimer in glorious 35mm the other night. More of an accident, by choosing to see the film at the local Arts theater. Didn't realize it was a 35mm expedition until we got to the theater. It was fine, with just a few visible signs that it was film running through a rather ancient projector. The shallow DOF of the IMAX and 70mm source was noticeable. As with most movies these days, found it to be about 20 minutes too long.

Each of the 30 theaters exhibiting in IMAX 70mm required a film print 11 miles long, weighing 600 lbs (purportedly). That plus the handful of theaters exhibiting the film in 35mm must have provided Kodak with a sweet little piece of business. Seriously, I believe that Kodak's film production is effectively underwritten by Hollywood studios commitment to purchase film for the movies shot on film stock. While still film sales have significantly improved, I don't know if that alone would make it economic for Kodak to continue making film.

The simple answer is the Sony lens cannot be mounted or adapted to fit on a Nikon DSLR. No lens made for mirrorless cameras will work on a DSLR. The lens also cost about $2,800 and weighs over 1000 grams (which is light for a this type of lens). If you are shooting an outdoor wedding, or one in very good light, the lenses you have should be adequate. If it's indoor, you may want to consider renting a faster Nikon standard zoom, like a 17-55mm F2.8, since with your slower zoom, you may be struggling to get an acceptably high shutter speed for shooting people. Your 50mm would be fine. If you have further questions on Nikon equipment, asking in the Nikon forum may generate more responses.

While the top of the line Samsung phone can actually generate a 200mp file (about 30-40 mb file size), its default setting is binning 16 pixels together to generate about 12mp. In general, I have to agree with paddler4 on this. Still, the main camera has a 71 sq mm sensor, which has about 60% of the real estate of the Sony 1" sensor packed into many high end P&S cameras. https://www.tomsguide.com/features/samsung-galaxy-s23-ultra-tested-how-good-is-the-200mp-camera Not all that revealing, but an explanation of how it works. Knowing its limitations, a better test would have been a landscape (or cityscape) in good light, letting the sensor do its best. Phone also has a super wide angle camera, a 70mm (FF equiv) telephoto, and a 230mm (FF equiv) periscope type telephoto, plus up to 1TB of memory available (for a big $$ upcharge!). Not trying to sell this thing, but it is clear that when my 2 1/2 year old granddaughter is old enough for youth sports (like in 3 years), it is unlikely that my son will buy a dedicated camera, and will use the latest smartphone to take images.

Good description of viewing options: https://www.indiewire.com/features/craft/oppenheimer-70mm-imax-where-to-watch-1234885161/ Best I can tell, my options for IMAX 70mm or plain old 70mm (5 perf) are both at Broadway and West 69th (1+ hour car ride, plus parking$$$ or 1+ hour Metro North + cab ride). No IMAX seating available through at least next week. 35mm is available locally, but for my money, a 22 x 16mm piece of film stretched onto the screen though an anamorphic lens may be interesting, but not likely the most immersive experience. Note that both the 70mm and 35mm films are presented in a wide screen format, which crops the original 1.43 aspect ratio IMAX images. The IMAX digital was scanned in 8K and is presented using two 4K projectors. Probably will see Barbie in a Dolby Cinema, which also uses two 4K projectors, has great sound, and super comfy adjustable seating.

Will probably see it at an IMAX digital theater, since I don't really want to go into Manhattan to see a movie (even if I can get tickets).

Does it really matter what anyone else prefers to use? Its sort of up to you and how you like the look of your images. I like 28mm or 50mm (FF effective) as a walk around lens, and have never warmed up to 35mm, even though I have owned a few. If you have a zoom with a 28mm setting, you could tape the zoom ring and see if that focal length works for you.

For myself, I insure my photo equipment through my homeowners policy on a "Personal Articles Policy". The policy covers theft or accidental loss outside the home. All I do is provide a schedule of equipment, serial numbers, and either replacement value or cost. I do keep copies of invoices, but have not been asked for them (but I have also never had a claim on the policy). Note, like all personal property at your home, a loss at the insured residence would be covered even if the items were not on the Personal Articles schedule. So you only want to insure items that you normally travel with, not stuff that generally doesn't leave your home or has little risk of loss outside your home. Cost is about 1.65% of insured value per year. I can't answer if this is better or worse than a stand alone policy. I use current B&H pricing (excluding any temporary sales incentives) for valuing replacement cost.

With Nikon F flange focal distance (lens mount to focal plane) of 45.6mm and Leica M at 27.8mm, there should be plenty of space within the adaptor to accommodate any SLR lens. If the lens rear element stuck out through the end of the adapter, then I would worry.

Bronx Zoo Budgie - Olympus EM-5iii / 40-150mm f5.6

Not sure if the firmware updates for my E-PL2 is comparable with your E-P2, but I updated the firmware on my camera to version 1.3 in order to accommodate the newly acquired VF-3. I would also agree that with every digital camera I have used, firmware is backwardly compatible with older hardware.

As paddler4 described, camera manufactures absolutely source parts and components from other manufacturer, as does almost any manufacturer of any complex device (the supply chain). And while re-labeling of cameras and lenses has and does occur, I believe the major camera makers do manufacture their own equipment (please feel free to supply any supporting or contrary sources). https://global.canon/en/mfg/f-01.html When did this happen? What camera model? What repair company did they contact? Did they contact or send the camera to a Canon repair facility? 7 years is an arbitrary number, and as described above, there is still equipment that was introduced 7 years ago that is still being sold new today. The Canon 70-200 f4L I currently own and has misbehaved for many years, was introduced about 24 years ago. I don't know if it is still repairable, but many parts seems to be available for sale (I assume refurbished from broken lenses), so an independent repair company may be able fix it, or I may sell it for parts to get it out of my house. https://21cameraparts.com/canon-ef-70-200mm-f4-l-usm-parts/ Its been a rule of thumb that Android phone manufacturers provide OS updates for about 3 years, and in my experience, Apple provides updates for about 5 years. Eventually, apps get updated and stop working on older OS, so that's just the way it is. My Ipad Pro is over 6 years old and still runs the latest OS, but the battery crapped out and we replaced it. If you want stuff to last forever, don't buy stuff with any electronics

I don't know this to be true, but if you have any evidence, please provide applicable links. I also thought that about 5 years of spare parts after discontinuation was more or less standard in the industry, but I don't know if many countries have rules and regulations on this. Issue might bother me if I bought $5K+ lenses, and expect to keep them for a few decades. Large pro lenses are out of my price range and my vertebrae's ability to carry.

Unfortunately, there are far fewer EOS users on PN compared to years earlier, so you may not get a response from someone who actually has used either of these cameras. At 100 ISO, high ISO performance improvement would not be a factor, but for landscapes, DR and ISO invariance are more likely issues, especially if you are shooting scenes that years ago using color transparency film, you would have likely wanted to use split grad filters. You may want to check out DP Review articles on the cameras, though an R6II review may need to substitute for the R8 if it is not available, since they both have the same sensor. You may want to look at Ming Thein's review of the 5DS R. He is a talented photographer and well versed in photo technology, but is somewhat biased to Nikon, Leica, and Hasselblad equipment: https://blog.mingthein.com/2015/08/19/long-term-canon-5dsr/ As a former 40+ year user of Canon equipment (left Canon FF due to deteriorated vertebra), to me the advantage of the R8 over the equipment you have and the 5DS R is better DR, since the latest Canon sensor has almost caught up to the Sony sensor equipped competition. The improved AF subject tracking and high ISO performance would be what I want, but may not offer you much in what you shoot. Buying a 5DSR would lock you into the EF lens world which is being slowly discontinued, though used and cheaper options should be around a long time. At base ISO, in good light with moderate contrast, the 24mp R8 will not produce materially better images than an RP, or even the D80, while the 5DSR is 50mp. Best of luck and hopefully someone who actually uses these cameras will comment.

SD Zoo - EM-5iii / 40-150 f5.6

I have not used that camera, but as per DP Review, focus and focus tracking are more reliable using Live View than through the viewfinder https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canon-eos-77d-review DP Review of the EOS 77, with the same AF system as the T7. Note that any AF system will be more challenged in lower light and shallow DOF will let AF errors be more noticeable.

Balboa Park Spanish Village Art Center - Olympus EM-5iii / 9mm fisheye lens cap Not bad for a little plastic piece of junk lens

Balboa Park, SD - EM-5iii / 12-40mm Pro

DP Review has been acquired by Gear Patrol https://www.dpreview.com/site-news/8298318614/dpreview-com-looks-forward-to-a-new-chapter-with-gear-patrol Don't know who Gear Patrol is, but it is encouraging that DP Review has been rescued. It has been obvious that since DP Review has continued to publish new content well past it's scheduled demise, that something like this has been in the works.

Had a moment waiting for my oven to reach its set temperature, and looked up the AT-1. Looks like that camera, along with the entire A series is happy with alkaline 4LR44 batteries. https://global.canon/en/c-museum/product/film96.html Generally cameras that don't use mercury cell batteries have circuitry that provides stable voltage to the meter throughout the battery's life.

A quick Google search shows PX28 batteries available in alkaline, lithium and silver oxide varieties. If they are all 6 volt then I would expect they all work, unless there is a specific issue. I would always calibrate an old meter (or old camera) against a meter that you know is reliable. I haven't opened up my A-1 in years to see what flavor battery it has.

Found this describing how Disney Studios created a process in the 1930's to expose a single strip of B&W film 3 times using an RGB color wheel. Though given the relatively slow process, it was used mostly for animated films. Moving to the 1990's they started reusing that process for production of all animated films and for archival storage of all others. It is currently being used to archive movies shot using digital cameras as a backstop to the digital files. https://www.disneydigitalstudio.com/preserving-our-movies/ For the last 20+ years, practically all commercial movies shot using film are scanned, edited & color graded via a digital intermediate. And practically all movies are shown in theaters using a digital projector. Prints are delivered to the movie theaters via a digital file.