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Problem now is, even if you can find a good technician, there is a lot of work involved in dismantling the T-90 to get access to the shutter unit. A quick clean and lube may restore things for a while (but hardly justifies the labour) as in one year, the same problem may return. What you need is a good shutter unit to fit as a replacement while the camera is taken apart. Problem is there are no new ones around and it you buy a non-functioning T-90 to cannibalize for spare parts, it'll probably have the same shutter fault, so Catch-22. I have one very good working T-90. I have three bodies that don't work and are good for parts. But to a lesser or greater extent, the all have faulty shutter units or similar. I fear the T-90 will be increasingly rare to find working as they are difficult to repair for these reasons. Unlike older fully mechanical cameras like the Canon F1 or Nikon F2, etc which can still be serviced quite easily as they are more straightforward (and go wrong less readily anyway) and replacement parts can even be adapted or fabricated to some extent. Not so with electronic shutter units and mini pcb flexi-circuits! I was talking to my technician in Lisbon. He can repair 40, 50, 60 year old cameras. Even modern autofocus cameras. He has serviced two of my Nikons and recently a 40 year old Nikkor AIS lens. But we both agreed that once manufacturer support for modern cameras, such as fashionable digital and mirrorless cameras ends (typically 10 years after the model goes out of production), in 50 years' time we won't be using or repairing Canon R or Nikon Z or Sony Alpha cameras, etc. They'll be dead as the dodo.

Further... It was also quite light and compact with a build in autowinder. Otherwise quite minimalist - no dof check, no mirror lock, no shutter blind, etc but it was a decent amateur camera and did well with the partial metering, which at the time was rare. I think I had mine from 1985 to about 1989. Didn't go wrong and I probably put 200 rolls of film through it.

Yes, it's the lightness and compactness of these models that appeals.

Nikon FA arrived 5 days' ago. Apart from minor brassing on the body, it appears to be mechanically and cosmetically excellent. Code letters indicate it is 1984 model. I have tested shutter and aperture and seems spot-on. Have just run two rolls of film through it with a 35mm f2.0 AI Nikkor (TMAX 100 and an EPN-250D colour negative) and have sent to the lab in Spain for developing and scanning. I will post some results.

I recently bought a mint F4 and shipped it from Japan to the EU where I live. It was an iconic camera. It's still an object of beauty too. But though not quite as versatile as the F5, it's a truly lovely camera to use. Luckily I can get all my 35mm Nikon bodies and lenses serviced in Lisbon at a 3rd generation 'old school' camera repair shop in the backstreets of Lisbon. I recently got my 1976 F2A c/w DP-11 serviced for €200 and it's as good as new.

You'd be amazed what people can break. I couple of years' ago, I bought online cheaply 4 non-functioning A-series bodies for spares

Yes, it's shutter lag - the blinds are not synchronized.

Ansel Adams zone system? Expose for shadow, print for highlights'?

T-70 was a fine camera and under-rated. Before I bought the T-90, I used it a lot. It's real boon was partial metering, which was ideal as I shot almost 100% Kodachrome and Fujichrome at the time.

Interestingly, I have just bought an FA as a job lot with two lenses and an MD-15 from Japan. I await delivery to EU. I love my F2A and F4, but I use the FM2n a lot when I want something much lighter and compact to lug around. I have never used an FA but the one I have bought (a bonus, as I was really buying the lenses), seems to be in vgc and works well. So, I'll be happy to explore shutter priority with AIS lenses and the matrix metering.

Yes, regular exercise of all my FD lenses and FD era 35mm camera bodies. Store in a cool, well ventilated (but not cold) dry place with professional packs of silica gel (large pouches) and store the equipment in a aluminum / metal rigid box / trunk with dividers* but with air able to circulate around - no 'cut to fit' foam, which breaks down imperceptibly and emits acrid and corrosive fumes (over several years) IMHO. I even keep a spreadsheets (10 bodies and about 25 lenses, Canon and some Nikon) which records all the information I have about the bodies / lenses and when it was last actuated. *Unless you are transporting them, in which case you'll need padding.

EEE is very common of course but should be fixable by a good technician

Thanks. Yes, I thought about that but having done extensive investigation with multiple testing of many variables, I am convinced the meter is simply unreliable and inaccurate. Thus, it's back to basics. Using an old school handheld meter!

I recall that era very well. In 1987/8, I was completing my masters degree in London, UK and working part time as a semi-professional photographer, doing weddings, portraits and commissions, etc and that was when you could earn good money from photography. I had Canon FD gear and used the F1n and T-90 and also other bodies like the A1. Many pros at the time used Nikon, and some Olympus and even Contax. When the EF mount was launched, I wasn't too concerned. Initially, I made 'hay while the sun shone' and picked up lots of FD lenses when their s/h prices fell. I also did not want autofocus at that point, for several reasons: many of the early systems and even the early EF lenses were not that good; for the type of photography I did, I wasn't desperate for autofocus and many people wanted to wait to see how the systems and technologies settled down. I started using autofocus from about 1992 with a EOS 1 and a few lenses. Canon in many ways did the right move with the EF mount. Their system was so superior to Nikon's (who desperately wanted to keep the F mount), that pros left Nikon in droves. Though the Nikon flash system remained superior to Canon's for at least the next 20 years. The best camera of that pre-digital autofocus era was probably the EOS1N - I have a EOS1NRS still, which is a superb camera. I don't use Canon's R mirrorless system and my EOS digital cameras are quite old now - the 7Dmk1 and 6D mk1. I think the R system lenses are essentially incompatible with EF and vice versa, without adapters and compromises, but people don't seem to complain too much now, as technology routinely evolves more quickly than 40 year ago! Canon and Nikon bodies used to be made for 10-12 years before upgrades. That is rather laughable now....

Hi John, It's not an uncommon problem with age (some A1 bodies are 45 years old +) and is to do with micro resistors on the internal flexi circuit board. If you can get to a good repair technician, s/he may be able to fix it, but if your A1 is otherwise mechanically and cosmetically good, I'd be tempted to buy another working A1 body online and ask the technician to cannibalize the parts.

Thanks, yes was using a handheld meter this morning and experience when taking some B&W shots locally. I have a DE finder on my F3. Is this compatible?

I agree - but my 'benchmarked meters' have shown that it (the DP-11) is inconsistent. For example, if it were consistently over-reading by say + 2EV, I'd adjust accordingly, but it sometimes is under reading and sometimes over reading. I may just resort to using my Sekonic digital meter. Thanks

The 'cheap' FD135mm f2.8 is great as is the 100mm f2.8 - if you want wider, go for the f2.0 versions if you can find (afford!) one. I have a beautiful FD 85mm f1.8 which is 'L' quality in all but name. The 28-85f4 is also a great zoom, but you'll obviously have a smaller maximum aperture. If you want to go for an older breechlock ssc lens, there is a 100-200 f2.5 zoom I believe. With my FD and EF equipment, I have generally favoured a 135mm lens for portraits. It has a flattering perspective and allows you to get a comfortable distance from the subject but still with good magnification. I used to take my light and compact FD 135mm f2.8 with me all the time when traveling in the pre-digital days. In fact, I have just bought one for ca. $50 from eBay Japan.

Thanks, all. I saw the stuff online about servicing the DP-11 - looks fiddly! I will look around for a good DP-12 in working condition.

Thanks for your help. Is there any previous link / explanation on how to clean the ring resistors? Best

Colleagues, I live in the EU. I have a small but growing collection of classic Nikon film cameras and lenses. I have a large collection of Canon FD equipment but am relatively less knowledgeable about Nikon gear, so some advice would be gratefully received. I have recently bough a near mint F2A body (1975 model) which is functioning to perfection. However, the supplied DP11 head is erratic and not functioning correctly in terms of metering - it varies from -1EV to +3EV incorrect reading when checked against multiple bench-marked separate meters! I am still enjoying using the camera completely manually, of course. But I am thinking of buying the 'better' later DP-12. There are many available, supposedly mint or vgc and all functioning perfectly, it is claimed and are firmly priced at $250+. Thus I am thinking of buying another F2 body with a working DP-12 finder which would seem to be better value. Any advice on DP-11 versus DP-12 and things to look out for, would be great. Thanks Gary

Generally, most items were not compatible between old and new F1

yes, Japan is very good. I just have to be aware of import charges to the EU where I live Gary

Not sure - all looks okay from my end - some seem to have been downloaded already...