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Yes, it's shutter lag - the blinds are not synchronized.

Ansel Adams zone system? Expose for shadow, print for highlights'?

T-70 was a fine camera and under-rated. Before I bought the T-90, I used it a lot. It's real boon was partial metering, which was ideal as I shot almost 100% Kodachrome and Fujichrome at the time.

Interestingly, I have just bought an FA as a job lot with two lenses and an MD-15 from Japan. I await delivery to EU. I love my F2A and F4, but I use the FM2n a lot when I want something much lighter and compact to lug around. I have never used an FA but the one I have bought (a bonus, as I was really buying the lenses), seems to be in vgc and works well. So, I'll be happy to explore shutter priority with AIS lenses and the matrix metering.

Yes, regular exercise of all my FD lenses and FD era 35mm camera bodies. Store in a cool, well ventilated (but not cold) dry place with professional packs of silica gel (large pouches) and store the equipment in a aluminum / metal rigid box / trunk with dividers* but with air able to circulate around - no 'cut to fit' foam, which breaks down imperceptibly and emits acrid and corrosive fumes (over several years) IMHO. I even keep a spreadsheets (10 bodies and about 25 lenses, Canon and some Nikon) which records all the information I have about the bodies / lenses and when it was last actuated. *Unless you are transporting them, in which case you'll need padding.

EEE is very common of course but should be fixable by a good technician

Thanks. Yes, I thought about that but having done extensive investigation with multiple testing of many variables, I am convinced the meter is simply unreliable and inaccurate. Thus, it's back to basics. Using an old school handheld meter!

I recall that era very well. In 1987/8, I was completing my masters degree in London, UK and working part time as a semi-professional photographer, doing weddings, portraits and commissions, etc and that was when you could earn good money from photography. I had Canon FD gear and used the F1n and T-90 and also other bodies like the A1. Many pros at the time used Nikon, and some Olympus and even Contax. When the EF mount was launched, I wasn't too concerned. Initially, I made 'hay while the sun shone' and picked up lots of FD lenses when their s/h prices fell. I also did not want autofocus at that point, for several reasons: many of the early systems and even the early EF lenses were not that good; for the type of photography I did, I wasn't desperate for autofocus and many people wanted to wait to see how the systems and technologies settled down. I started using autofocus from about 1992 with a EOS 1 and a few lenses. Canon in many ways did the right move with the EF mount. Their system was so superior to Nikon's (who desperately wanted to keep the F mount), that pros left Nikon in droves. Though the Nikon flash system remained superior to Canon's for at least the next 20 years. The best camera of that pre-digital autofocus era was probably the EOS1N - I have a EOS1NRS still, which is a superb camera. I don't use Canon's R mirrorless system and my EOS digital cameras are quite old now - the 7Dmk1 and 6D mk1. I think the R system lenses are essentially incompatible with EF and vice versa, without adapters and compromises, but people don't seem to complain too much now, as technology routinely evolves more quickly than 40 year ago! Canon and Nikon bodies used to be made for 10-12 years before upgrades. That is rather laughable now....

Hi John, It's not an uncommon problem with age (some A1 bodies are 45 years old +) and is to do with micro resistors on the internal flexi circuit board. If you can get to a good repair technician, s/he may be able to fix it, but if your A1 is otherwise mechanically and cosmetically good, I'd be tempted to buy another working A1 body online and ask the technician to cannibalize the parts.

Thanks, yes was using a handheld meter this morning and experience when taking some B&W shots locally. I have a DE finder on my F3. Is this compatible?

I agree - but my 'benchmarked meters' have shown that it (the DP-11) is inconsistent. For example, if it were consistently over-reading by say + 2EV, I'd adjust accordingly, but it sometimes is under reading and sometimes over reading. I may just resort to using my Sekonic digital meter. Thanks

The 'cheap' FD135mm f2.8 is great as is the 100mm f2.8 - if you want wider, go for the f2.0 versions if you can find (afford!) one. I have a beautiful FD 85mm f1.8 which is 'L' quality in all but name. The 28-85f4 is also a great zoom, but you'll obviously have a smaller maximum aperture. If you want to go for an older breechlock ssc lens, there is a 100-200 f2.5 zoom I believe. With my FD and EF equipment, I have generally favoured a 135mm lens for portraits. It has a flattering perspective and allows you to get a comfortable distance from the subject but still with good magnification. I used to take my light and compact FD 135mm f2.8 with me all the time when traveling in the pre-digital days. In fact, I have just bought one for ca. $50 from eBay Japan.

Thanks, all. I saw the stuff online about servicing the DP-11 - looks fiddly! I will look around for a good DP-12 in working condition.

Thanks for your help. Is there any previous link / explanation on how to clean the ring resistors? Best

Colleagues, I live in the EU. I have a small but growing collection of classic Nikon film cameras and lenses. I have a large collection of Canon FD equipment but am relatively less knowledgeable about Nikon gear, so some advice would be gratefully received. I have recently bough a near mint F2A body (1975 model) which is functioning to perfection. However, the supplied DP11 head is erratic and not functioning correctly in terms of metering - it varies from -1EV to +3EV incorrect reading when checked against multiple bench-marked separate meters! I am still enjoying using the camera completely manually, of course. But I am thinking of buying the 'better' later DP-12. There are many available, supposedly mint or vgc and all functioning perfectly, it is claimed and are firmly priced at $250+. Thus I am thinking of buying another F2 body with a working DP-12 finder which would seem to be better value. Any advice on DP-11 versus DP-12 and things to look out for, would be great. Thanks Gary

Generally, most items were not compatible between old and new F1

yes, Japan is very good. I just have to be aware of import charges to the EU where I live Gary

Not sure - all looks okay from my end - some seem to have been downloaded already...

Here's all the PDF files I have on the EF in my archive - happy to share these. Where I originally got these from third parties, there are no copyright issues for personal use. Canon EF camera.pdf CanonEFRepairManual783586.1159789665.pdf EF brochure.pdf EF dealer leaflet.pdf EF dealers leaflet 2.pdf ef-manual.pdf

Agree - it was very under-rated.

See attached

The strength of the T90 was (and I speak that someone who used it as a new camera when it was released) was not the gadgets but the fact that it had spot metering with flash and multispot metering. With 64 or 50 ISO slide film, you could take multiple shadow and highlight readings to get the right exposure to within in 1/3 stop. Usually, I used it in Av or Tv with partial or spot metering, as I used to shoot Kodachrome 64 (or even 25), Velvia 50, Ektachrome 64 or 100. Exposure was crucial. You could not be lazy like you can with digital. I remember taking it to Rome in 1989 and 1991, with a kit of 20mm f2.8, 24mm f2.0, 35mm f2.0, 85 mm f1.8 and 135mm f2.8 and 200 f2.8. That was all I needed. The mark 2 FD primes were so small and light, I took them instead of zooms. The whole kit, plus film (of course) could be carried quite easily in a Billingham 445 shoulder bag.

Yes, there is a lovely 135mm f2.0 or f2.8; there is also the 85mm f1.8 or the 100m f2.0 or f2.8

If the foam and seals are deteriorating, this is a job you can do yourself with good quality foam, adhesive and a craft knife.