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Can anybody please help me get the yellowish tint out of this picture. I tried everything, but every time I print it, it looks Yellowish. I'm wasting tons of paper that I can't afford right now ! I would like it looking warm, but not yellowish ! I DONT HAVE A RAW COPY. 

IMG_0636_2.jpg

Edited by hjoseph7
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The white sweater clearly isn't really white because using it for white balance turns the boy's face blue.

I used the top of the boy's collar for a simple WB adjustment. That cooled the image a little and changed tint.

When in doubt, shoot one image in the same light with a neutral card and use that to set an initial white balance. Without that, you have to play it by ear, finding something in the photo that is nearly neutral or just adjusting to taste.

 

 

edited.jpg

Edited by paddler4
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My fix was done in Adobe Camera Raw and was pretty quick and simple. The settings used are shown to the right, along with the edit itself. Mostly just an adjustment of Tint/Temp (-19 Temp) and it looked 'down' to me, so I increased brightness using Exposure (+.40). There is no highlight clipping with the new setting, but the original shadows are clipped to black a bit (no big deal):

Edit: The Lab values are shown with the cursor over the boy's white shirt and it's pretty dead nuts neutral (-1/-1).

ACRFix.png

Edited by digitaldog

Author “Color Management for Photographers" & "Photoshop CC Color Management" (pluralsight.com)

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Unless you don't think the white shirt is white, that image isn't close to neutral. Here are the measurements I got from the collar:

R 191
G 220
B 250

Using the L*a*b values to evaluate this, as Dog did, gives me this:

a -6
b-19

Dog's is spot on, again if you consider the shirt white. Mine's pretty close, but as he suggested, still dark:

R 215
G 217
R 212

a -1
b +2

Of course, there is no reason to choose the shirt to to aim for a perfectly neutral WB. However, the blue cast on the face on the left seems clearly off to me

Edited by paddler4
incomplete
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The original (and untagged)? I get collar readings (with both 5x5 and 11x11 samplings) of aStar 1 and bStar 7. 

Lab.png

 

Fixed.png

Edited by digitaldog
Added fixed lab readings

Author “Color Management for Photographers" & "Photoshop CC Color Management" (pluralsight.com)

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There are many ways to do this e.g. Curves and masking.  Probably the quickest/easiest way if you have a later version of Photoshop is to open the image in Camera Raw and use the Mask tool to select the subject; it should select all the kids then make your adjustments.  In this instance I just increased exposure  +0.50 and reduced colour temp -20, you may wish to adjust to your own preference.  One thing about the mask selection is you would probably need to finesse the gap between the girls heads to remove a little of the mask spill onto the background

 

colorcast copy.jpg

Edited by TonyW
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sorry. My last post was unclear. I was responding to hjoseph saying he had decided to use Sanford's edit. My numbers refer to that edit, not the original.

I think this is nothing more than a straightforward WB issue, although as Dog and Tony mentioned, the faces are also dark. Using the dropper in adobe camera raw on the front of the collar does a -9 on temperature and +15 on tint. That turns the shirt almost a perfectly neutral white and creates natural skin tones. A little bit of a curve brightens the faces and add a tiny bit of contrast. Other edits may improve the image, but they aren't a response to the color cast.

edit2.jpg

Edited by paddler4
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The local tonal adjustments in Tony's make it far better than mine. But for clarity's sake, since hjoseph asked about color tint: the white balances of Tony's, Dog's, and mine are virtually identical. Once that's corrected, which is very easy to do if you have (as in this case) a neutral surface to use in setting WB, it's time to move on to other adjustments, both global and local.

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On 3/11/2023 at 2:24 PM, paddler4 said:

... But for clarity's sake, since hjoseph asked about color tint: the white balances of Tony's, Dog's, and mine are virtually identical. Once that's corrected, which is very easy to do if you have (as in this case) a neutral surface to use in setting WB, it's time to move on to other adjustments, both global and local.

I do agree that correcting the WB is the starting point.  However, hjoseph also stated, " ...I tried everything, but every time I print it, it looks Yellowish. I'm wasting tons of paper that I can't afford right now ! I would like it looking warm, but not yellowish !...

So, in my opinion just correcting WB alone would still not produce a pleasing print and therefore potentially waste even more costly paper and ink so I thought illustrating one possible edit may help the OP look a little further fully accepting that his and YMMV. 😀

I think we may have all missed an important question that we should have asked i.e. what tools does the OP have at his disposal to edit his JPEG?

Edited by TonyW
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21 hours ago, TonyW said:

So, in my opinion just correcting WB alone would still not produce a pleasing print and therefore potentially waste even more costly paper and ink so I thought illustrating one possible edit may help the OP look a little further fully accepting that his and YMMV. 😀

I think we may have all missed an important question that we should have asked i.e. what tools does the OP have at his disposal to edit his JPEG?

I absolutely agree. I was just trying to separate the two questions for the OP.

The OP said in another thread what tools he has. I don't recall for certain, but I vaguely recall that it was Affinity and ACDSee. The question in that thread was whether he has tools that provide for color management, and the answer was yes.

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On 3/12/2023 at 1:24 AM, paddler4 said:

the white balances of Tony's, Dog's, and mine are virtually identical. Once that's corrected, which is very easy to do if you have (as in this case) a neutral surface to use in setting WB, it's time to move on to other adjustments, both global and local.

That's good advice.

As a few suggestions - I reckon the faces need pulling out of shadow, as do the eyes need some assistance. The black in the Boy's jacket could have a bit more detail.

Rough indicative only:

Edit-H-Joseph.jpg

WW

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JTG1--Your postprocessing software should allow you to approximate how neutral these are. I get the following RGB values:

Whites of one boy's eyes:

R 116
G 159
B 201

Whites of one girl's eyes:

R 142
G 180
B 203

Collar on boy at left (not area in shadow)

R 210
G 232
B 245

In other words, the software confirms what seems clear from eyeballing the image on my calibrated monitor: these images are too blue to be neutral. Since these areas are all approximately neutral, the RGB values should be similar for any given one of these three locations.

Edited by paddler4
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I took a crack at it in PS. Looking at the original, it look to me like the cast is in the highlight, looking at the hair and the highlight on the woman holding the flower's shoulder so I used the color balance with the highlights and nudged the yellow-blue about 4 points toward the blue. Then I selected the subjects and raised the levels about a half stop or so and bumped the kids contrast just a bit. I think it made the boy's shirt too white and his face a little too cool, but then he does have that type of skin. I think I like Tony's example and dog's example best and then Paddlars.

IMG_0636_2.jpg.342e4f0fc87dd9342238d3dc50a5edcf(1).jpg.34ab084851f067611c324a735afb7309.jpg

Edited by httpwww.photo.netbarry
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Thanks for all the advise. Sorry I got caught up working on something else, but i will try your recomendations, one by one. Since the yellowish background is so prominent, it's hard for it not to influence the picture. On the screen it does not looks that bad, but when printing it becomes overwhelming. So far, the desaturate function seems to have improved things a little. 

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12 minutes ago, hjoseph7 said:

On the screen it does not looks that bad, but when printing it becomes overwhelming. 

Well that's a different issue (a failure of sound color management). 

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Author “Color Management for Photographers" & "Photoshop CC Color Management" (pluralsight.com)

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27 minutes ago, hjoseph7 said:

Im a using a dye sub printer so it might take some type of different color management ? 

Short answer is no.

You report the screen and print don't match. 

Why are my prints too dark?

Why doesn’t my display match my prints?

A video update to a written piece on subject from 2013

In this 24 minute video, I'll cover:

 

Are your prints really too dark?

Display calibration and WYSIWYG

Proper print viewing conditions 

Trouble shooting to get a match

Avoiding kludges that don't solve the problem

 

High resolution: http://digitaldog.net/files/Why_are_my_prints_too_dark.mp4

Low resolution: https://youtu.be/iS6sjZmxjY4

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Author “Color Management for Photographers" & "Photoshop CC Color Management" (pluralsight.com)

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On 3/21/2023 at 11:56 AM, digitaldog said:

Short answer is no.

You report the screen and print don't match. 

Why are my prints too dark?

Why doesn’t my display match my prints?

A video update to a written piece on subject from 2013

In this 24 minute video, I'll cover:

 

Are your prints really too dark?

Display calibration and WYSIWYG

Proper print viewing conditions 

Trouble shooting to get a match

Avoiding kludges that don't solve the problem

 

High resolution: http://digitaldog.net/files/Why_are_my_prints_too_dark.mp4

Low resolution: https://youtu.be/iS6sjZmxjY4

I tried printing the image using Corel PaintShop Pro X3 that has more controls for printing and is more suited for printing Dye-Sub. Just a slight shift to the left for Saturation and a slight shift to the right for Brightness improved my prints significantly, to the point where they now look like what is on the screen(pretty much ?) You only have to do this once since the software saves your latest changes. 

 

image.png.bc1550f7fa70f9f15532f233787b7569.png

Edited by hjoseph7
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