woooptywuuu Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 I’m so annoyed because I should’ve looked into this problem years ago but it was so inconsistent I thought I was the problem. My mamiya m645 has this weird issue where it will skip either the end of my roll or the beginning and i literally cannot figure out why. It’s not a battery issue, I start my film where it needs to start, I load it properly. And still instead of 15 I get either 10 or sometimes even 6 shots. Pleaseeeee help me I love this baby so much but it’s such a waste of money at this point 😭 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmac Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 There might be an automatic switch in the works that may need cleaning or replacing, or it may be a mechanical problem whereby a part is worn and only working some of the time. It really sounds like the camera needs an overdue service but I have no idea where you could get that done. Is the winding of the film OK when you do it manually ? If it skips frames manually, it is most likely a mechanical issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 (edited) Which Mamiya 645 model do you have? There's a world of difference between the old metal-bodied versions - J, M & 1000S - and the plastic clad Super, Pro, ProTL & E. That said, the frame counters on all of my M645s worked perfectly, even if the Supers and ProTL were among the most unreliable camera bodies I've ever owned. But when they were working they always delivered 15 frames per film. I have noticed that the frame counter wheel on some of my old metal bodied M645s is slow or reluctant to return to zero. This might be your issue. Check that the frame counter is on zero before loading. Obviously, if the frame counter is stuck at, say 5, before you even load the film, then you're only going to get 10 shots before the counter stops Edited October 14, 2022 by rodeo_joe1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cargosteve Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 I have the Mamiya 645 super and I have had similar issues to what you're describing. Unfortunately I've never figured out why it does this. Like you said it's so sporadic that it's hard to know if it's going to do this or not. I've owned two of the 645 supers and both have had weird issues with strange, inconsistent light leaks and film advance. I'm beginning to suspect the 645s just have problems like this. When these problems are absent however, they are fantastic little cameras! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 (edited) I have two 645 Supers (they're not!) and a ProTL. Sorry to say that I don't think I've ever had both Super bodies working at the same time, since one or other of them has needed repair almost continuously. They are definitely the most unreliable cameras I've ever owned - and I once owned a Kowa 6! 😲 Besides simply refusing to fire, the backs gap away from the body, unless the wear in the retaining clip is frequently adjusted out. This could explain some light leaks. Or even the wind-on cogs failing to engage fully. The backs are made of such flimsy plastic that they easily warp or develop hairline cracks - again another possible source of light leaks. Not to mention the ever-present possibility of the fragile mirror brake/rest cracking and putting the focus out for good. In short, I would recommend getting shut of those plastic Mamiyas at your earliest opportunity and for whatever price you can get. OTOH, my older all-metal M645s are all still working well, and look set to go on forever. And all you lose is the interchangeable back facility. But an additional body or bodies quickly solves that issue. Edited October 19, 2022 by rodeo_joe1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted November 22, 2022 Share Posted November 22, 2022 It should be easy to tell by looking at the film, at least before you cut of the strip, if the missing shots are at the beginning, middle, or end. That might help figure out the answer. -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin McAmera Posted November 22, 2022 Share Posted November 22, 2022 Nobody can comment with any confidence without more description of the problem. We need to know what model you have, and whether you use a power winder or hand-crank. I haven't had anything like this with mine, which is a 645 Pro. I read that they upgraded some of the gears between the Super and Pro. I have a pdf of a service manual: it's for the original metal-bodied camera. I think I got it from here: https://www.scribd.com/document/339714130/35453483-Mamiya-M645-Service-Manual-pdf This has some troubleshooting suggestions. Faults they allow for include the frame-counter not resetting, as Joe suggested. Also 'shutter runs but not exposed'; I guess this would give you missing frames in the middle; picture, picture, gap, picture, gap, picture... Good luck anyhow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Uno Posted January 11, 2023 Share Posted January 11, 2023 Been gone for a while and just noticed this thread , I smiled when "Joe" mentioned he owned one of my fave traveling cameras (the Mighty Kowa 6 ) . The Kowa Super 66 models that I own were a bit problematic , winding mechanism and frame counters on the removable backs ( I did succeed in repairing the winding mechanism , with a carbide tip from a table saw blade and lucky brazing ) . But those are other stories , if you like the 645 format , just get a Bronica ! Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 (edited) On 1/11/2023 at 8:08 PM, Moto-Uno said: if you like the 645 format , just get a Bronica ! Peter And a set of ear defenders and a sturdy tripod to combat the mirror slap! I always liked the look of Pentax's 645, but never owned one. A Contax 645 might be a good option too, except a bit harder to come by... not to mention staggeringly expensive. Nothing wrong with the old metal Mami 645 bodies, but the more plasticky N series Mamiya lenses were optically better on the whole than the C series. Edited January 15, 2023 by rodeo_joe1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Uno Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 I think you're mixing up the Etr(si) models with the earthquake inducing S2 Bronicas 🙂 . Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 I've been tempted by a number of iterations of Bronica models, but all that I tried seemed to want to leap out of my hand when fired. Not to mention making a dead-awakening racket. Just couldn't ever bring myself to buy one of the noisy beasts. I'm sure they all work just fine - inside a sound blimp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antonroland Posted January 29, 2023 Share Posted January 29, 2023 I suppose I am very blessed to have a very good service guy in my hometown 10 minutes drive from my house. I have a m645J and I have never experienced this. I really hope you can find a good service guy close-by! Please let us know how things progress? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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