Film development issue

[jon_shumpert2]

I had something happen tonight that I have never experienced. I developed 2 rolls of Kodak T-Maz 100 in a brand new batch of eco-pro developer. I had some older (about 1 year) stop bath and eco pro fixer. After the wash was through, I pulled the negatives off the spool and both rolls were crystal clear, with just the faintest of images. I have developed film for over 25 years and this is the first time I have had something like this happen. Any suggestions on what it might be? I followed all the steps I normally do as far as temperature, time and agitation. It was very disappointing because one of the rolls contained some nice scenes I photographed this morning. Oh well, I guess I will use this as an excuse to go out and shoot more film. I just need to find out where I messed up.

[Niels - NHSN]

If you have both faint edge markings and images, the obvious culprit is the developer; time, dilution or contamination. Edited September 2, 2022 by NHSN

[glen_h]

Old stop or fix won't make them clear. Old fix makes them not clear, or for TMax, pink.

 

Underexposing is a favorite way. (Check the light meter.)

Weak developer or wrong development time are also common.

 

There are times for stock, 1+1, 1+2, and 1+3.

Be sure you used the right time for the dilution used.

Edited September 2, 2022 by glen_h

[rodeo_joe1]

in a brand new batch of eco-pro developer.

That sounds like the culprit.

Test it in normal room light with an offcut of film. You only need an egg cupful of developer and 1" of 35mm film. Dunk it in the developer at the right temperature and dilution, and for the recommended time, giving it a stir at about 30 second intervals. If it hasn't turned black in that time, then the developer is bad.

 

If you want to get technical, then fix the clip test afterwards and measure the density. Good T-max 100 and standard development should yield a Dmax of about 2.6.

 

If the developer does turn out bad, and is in-date, etc. Then I'd have a good moan at the supplier and claim at least the cost of the film back.

 

Some Ascorbate developers can fail suddenly and for no apparent reason. Although my home-brewed Phenidone-Ascorbate D76 substitute has proved reliable so far.

Edited September 2, 2022 by rodeo_joe|1

[jon_shumpert2]

The eco pro was mixed about an hour before I started developing. I had never had a major screw up in processing, so this was a letdown and a shock. I read somewhere that It could have been me getting the fix switched up with the developer. I grabbed a roll I had used to test a camera and developed it paying close attention to the chemistry and it came out fine. I had too many measuring cups on the counter and guess I got them mixed up as to what was what. I will not do that again.

[glen_h]

The eco pro was mixed about an hour before I started developing. I had never had a major screw up in processing, so this was a letdown and a shock. I read somewhere that It could have been me getting the fix switched up with the developer. I grabbed a roll I had used to test a camera and developed it paying close attention to the chemistry and it came out fine. I had too many measuring cups on the counter and guess I got them mixed up as to what was what. I will not do that again.

 

You said "faintest of images".

 

Fixing before developer gets no image.

 

Stop before developer might leave enough acid to reduce the developer action,

but not completely stop it. That depends on how well you drain the tank.

 

I keep developers on the left side of my work area, and stop and fix toward the right.

 

I use indicator stop, so the yellow is pretty hard to miss.

 

I often use Diafine, which has parts A and B. That is one more way to get it wrong,

but I have never done that.

 

Only one time did I get completely clear film, using TP2415, and intentionally

underdeveloping it as an experiment. It seems like I underdeveloped too much.

[rodeo_joe1]

I had too many measuring cups on the counter and guess I got them mixed up as to what was what. I will not do that again.

My Jobo processor came with some bottles and measuring cylinders. They have coloured dots stuck to them to identify them. That might be a good idea to copy.

[steve_gallimore1]

Black bottle for dev, clear for anything else?

 

As I use one-shot developers, my setup is pretty simple: developer is in a jug, so if it's in a bottle, it must be stop or fix.