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F3 Camera Purchase


mikemulcahy

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I am looking to acquire a used F3HP. I have been shopping on ebay because there are a lot of them listed there. However, I notice there are quite a few for sale in Japan. Since I live in the US, I'm wondering if I'll have to deal with customs if I make a purchase there. Does anyone have experience with this kind of purchase?

 

Mike

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I've bought my share of Nikkor lenses from Japan, but I don't believe in buying cameras from there because there is so much more that can go wrong with a camera.

 

I'm in the US too, and I really wouldn't want to fill out customs forms in order to return a camera to Japan. I bought most of my cameras from ebay, Usedphotopro.com, and KEH. Never had any problems returning the few defective cameras I've gotten to any of them.

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I've seen some nice hardly used F3 bodies from sellers from Japan on Ebay. I've purchased many camera bodies and lenses from Japan on Ebay and only had a problem once, but that was remedied very quickly. I love my F3 but have switched to the non FP finder because I like the view better and it makes the body smaller. Good luck with yours it's a great body.
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For whatever reason, many camera models that used to be plentiful and common in North America and Europe seem to have evaporated from those markets, leaving Japan as the exclusive source for any kind of decent selection.

 

As others have said, buying from Japan is usually safe and doesn't involve import duties or delays. If anything, I receive orders from Japan faster than I do from California: most sellers use a form of Express Mail. This is great when you buy, but not so good if you need to return something: due to Congressional mismanagement, our USPS has international rates higher than any country in the known universe. You might pay $20 to have something express shipped from Japan to USA, but return shipping from USA to Japan for that same camera can easily run $60.

 

So shop wisely and read descriptions carefully: you want to avoid any unpleasant surprises that would necessitate a costly return. I've found Japanese sellers to be very honest and scrupulous, but the language barrier sometimes causes unclear written listings (and photos don't always show common defects). The most common issue afflicting used Japanese gear is fungus: if present, this is usually visible in lens listing photos, and noted by a written checkbox or boilerplate listing phrase. But it can hide inside cameras, in places some sellers don't notice. In Nikon F-series bodies, it might turn up inside prism roofs: if the listing doesn't offer a clear photo of prism bottom glass showing internal condition, ask for it. If you see any fungal evidence like the white spiderwebbing inside the Nikon DP-11 prism below, skip that camera. Most Japan-sourced used F3 bodies will be totally fine, but it is best to confirm as many condition points as possible before purchase.

 

358532732_NikonF2ABlkFungCan11smaller.jpg.15975140e17470e78ff853f3c4bd6736.jpg

Edited by orsetto
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I've bought a number of camera bodies and lenses from dealers in Japan. The Japanese dealers tend to underrate their equipment. Their "good condition" translates roughly to Excellent-to-Mint. Their service is great, and in many instances they enclose a piece of origami and/or green tea. Nice touch.

 

I believe the minimum amount on duty on used equipment is $800 here. However, I've spent more than that on occasion, and there's never been the first question by U.S. Customs.

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If the camera comes through the postal service you will not likely pay customs. The other international services- you could easily pay customs, maybe they get a cut of it.

 

KEH is a good place to look for an F3HP, with return privilege and warranty. The worst problem I ever had was a meter marked INOP when I bought it. The meter worked perfectly.

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I have no advice to your purpose here today, other than to pay homage to the F3 and how great of a camera it really is and to wish you luck finding a good copy and knowing your efforts will pay off greatly with this camera. The Nikon F3 must go down as one of the best cameras ever made. I bought mine new here in the US in 1984 for $424.00 it was my first camera in a life of Photography ever since. After one CLA I still use it. I love the feel of it and actually like the weight of it. A true hockey puck of a camera, Simple, ergonomic, no-nonsense, amazing viewfinder in the HP. The diopter choices online you'll find that they are interchangeable with the F-100. I'm using a +1.0 now. Best of luck!
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Not counting anything in the last two years and five months, US import duties, if any apply, are

very low.

 

I don't know about Japan, but there are special postal rates from some countries that are less than

US postage rates. I have bought things (mostly not photographic) from China for less than the US

postage cost. (Specifically, less than $1.)

-- glen

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  • 1 month later...

CFE11D93-2E00-4286-998E-D737AE015C82.thumb.jpeg.f5f32c0ad4abfd1ad32b2c67adf94133.jpeg

I've seen some nice hardly used F3 bodies from sellers from Japan on Ebay. I've purchased many camera bodies and lenses from Japan on Ebay and only had a problem once, but that was remedied very quickly. I love my F3 but have switched to the non FP finder because I like the view better and it makes the body smaller. Good luck with yours it's a great body.

 

I too, prefer the non-HP finder.

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If you wear eye-glasses, the HP finder offers better relief, and even with my thick glasses: no problem seeing the entire frame with the shutter speed, meter, and F-Stop windows. I picked up two F3HP bodies at the end of production, but my 1983 body just keeps going.

 

That makes sense. Eyeglass wearers love the HP finder. I have another F3 on the way. It has the HP finder on it.

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And paying inflated Ebay prices is a safer and better option?

 

I have bought too many things on eBay, by not paying inflated prices.

 

If it occurs often enough, bid low and you will eventually get one.

(Or at least some of all the things that you bid low on.)

 

It is only people in a rush that pay inflated prices.

 

For cameras, most often I bid on ones from a nearby Goodwill store, where I can pick

them up and avoid shipping charges. Also, rarely, I return them and avoid return shipping

charges. Most recently, I bid $12 for seven older light meters. I don't have them yet,

so I can't say how many work.

-- glen

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(snip)

 

Most recently, I bid $12 for seven older light meters. I don't have them yet,

so I can't say how many work.

 

I now have the light meters.

 

Four have selenium cells, and I didn't test them much, but some of them seem to work.

 

Most interesting is a Sekonic L-428, the one with the Lumishere for incident metering.

The Lumisphere comes off, and you put a different filter on for reflected metering, but the case

is shaped for the Lumisphere. I takes four batteries, the manual says mercury, but I

put alkaline ones in. Conveniently the usual L44 are the right shape, it doesn't expect 625.

 

Battery test goes to the top of the test range, so it should be within a half stop.

(The test range is one stop wide on the scale.). The manual actually says

within 1/4 stop.

 

The manual sounds like it has a transistorized amplifier, making it pretty sensitive.

Down to -3 EV incident, or +1 EV reflected, at ASA 100.

 

I didn't try out the two other battery-needing meters yet.

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-- glen

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The manual sounds like it has a transistorized amplifier, making it pretty sensitive. Down to -3 EV incident, or +1 EV reflected, at ASA 100.

 

Nice deal! I picked up a couple classic Sekonic Studio Deluxe L-28cII selenium meters included in camera packages over the past few years: remarkably accurate and sensitive considering the age and selenium tech. This powered L-428 would get me more low-end range: I'll need to keep an eye out. It seems to have a near identical design to the venerable Studio Deluxe, but updated with silicon blue cells. Perhaps it was an answer to (or forerunner of) Gossen's LunaPro SBC.

 

The manual is really confused regarding batteries: an early page specifies 4x "mercury" JIS G13 at 1.5v, the first tipoff there's a misprint. A few pages later, it specifies bog-standard S76 as the battery, confirmed by photographs, meaning its fully compatible with the same silver oxide (or alkaline) battery used by nearly every modern camera made after 1975. Cool!

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(snip)

 

The manual is really confused regarding batteries: an early page specifies 4x "mercury" JIS G13 at 1.5v, the first tipoff there's a misprint. A few pages later, it specifies bog-standard S76 as the battery, confirmed by photographs, meaning its fully compatible with the same silver oxide (or alkaline) battery used by nearly every modern camera made after 1975. Cool!

 

In years past, mercury batteries were often used where the constant voltage wasn't needed.

 

My favorite flash for many years, the Agfalux C, used a mercury PX23 5.6 volt battery.

There are now replacements just fine for flash use.

 

It is hard now to tell which batteries used to be mercury, as many battery companies will list

the number on alkaline or silver oxide equivalent lists.

 

Battery test is easy to do, and as long as it is in the red area, it should be fine.

(Yes, red means good here.)

 

I also have a Lunasix, which has two alkaline cells. It looks to me like someone rewired around the

battery test switch so it doesn't work. Testing with Sunny 16, it seems close enough for ordinary use.

-- glen

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