chulster

Yes, the lack of instant AF override, and the related fact that the focus ring is coupled to the gear train in AF mode, seem to be cost-cutting measures taken to meet the economical $799 price point. I know to keep my fingers away from the focus ring when not focusing manually, which is something I never feel the need to do with this accurate-focusing lens. I love the wide-open sharpness at all focal lengths, which is something I can't say about the Nikkor 24-120mm f/4.

I don't have a dog in this spat, but here's an innocent question. If your livelihood depends on images being captured successfully, doesn't it make sense to have not just a backup card slot, but a whole backup body? Because a card slot isn't the only thing that can malfunction. I mean, if you're not checking (at least at the beginning of an event) that images are being successfully written to the card, then I can see how it would feel indispensable to have two slots and to use the second slot for redundancy rather than overflow. But if you do check the slot before any important captures, and it works at that time, how common is it that the slot will go bad during the event? Just wondering, not arguing.

The option to use the aperture ring (of an AF lens) is not present on such cameras as the D7500 precisely because they have no Ai follower. Nor does the FTZ. Thus, these cameras don't know what aperture you've set the lens to, if you're using the aperture ring. A Dandelion-equipped manual-focus lens will behave the same as an AF lens with an aperture ring in this regard.

Joe, I believe a Z camera with FTZ will behave with a Dandelion-equipped lens the same way a D7500, D5600, or other non-Ai-supporting DSLR does: If you let the camera control the aperture, it will "know" and record the taking aperture by virtue of the fact that it, rather than the lens, is controlling the aperture. But if you set the aperture using the aperture ring, since the FTZ has no Ai "follower", the Z camera cannot know what the taking aperture is. And adding a Dandelion chip will not help in this case.

Is it possible the Z6 keeps the VR motor running all the time the camera is awake? Instead of turning it on only when you half-press the shutter release or press AF-ON? I remember my Nikon 1 V2 kept VR constantly on, at least for adapted lenses.

I have the lens in Ai-converted form. One nice thing about using a Z camera is you can take advantage of the lower—sometimes much lower—prices of non-Ai lenses! The flip side of that is one of the reasons I still don't have a Z camera: it can't tell what aperture a fully mechanical lens is set to—even if it is Ai. I hate not having the taking aperture in EXIF. I really wish a third party would make an adapter with an Ai sensor and report the taking aperture to the camera. But it's possible that Z cameras do not support communication of the taking aperture in this direction.

The Tamron 35-150mm is dope. A much-undervalued lens. Sharp at all focal lengths and apertures. Light, despite the fast apertures and extended range. A really nice travel lens when paired with something like the tiny and sharp Nikkor 20mm f/3.5.

That's a good idea. Shouldn't be too inconvenient either.

I just started using an ES-1 with my 55mm f/2.8. I must say, I'm disappointed in the amount of play in the lens's front inner barrel that this usage has revealed. When the lens is fully extended (at MFD), the front barrel, with the ES-1 attached, seems to sag on the order of half a millimeter due to the added weight of the attachment. This throws the alignment of the ES-1 off enough that I am forced to push it up with my left hand in order to center the slide on the sensor before taking an exposure. Does anyone else have this problem with their 55mm f/2.8 when using an ES-1 or ES-2? Perhaps my copy has loosened over time.

I wonder why it says the 55mm micro is incompatible? What could make it so? No. The FTZ does not change the aperture range or the focal length of a lens.

You know, I'm going to reconsider buying a Df once the price is under $1K—if there are any clean copies left by then!

Anyway, the Df I had my eye on was snapped up. My imbecilic urge is doused for now.

Ironically, Asians also have a hard time with the letter F. I've never heard a non-American Japanese person say "Nikon F3"... I wonder how they say it? I feel certain they don't say "three."

Isn't it obvious? ;) It's supposed to recall the "F" of the film SLRs.

I appreciate all the responses. The majority opinion seems to be that it's a foolish trade. In this thread, the Df finds more support as a fun second body, not a replacement for the D810. I would be interested to hear more about what everybody thinks are specific deficits of the Df compared to the D810. Resolution is the most obvious. A few here have derided its ergonomics. Anything else? Is the Df's viewfinder smaller or darker than the D810's? That's a difference I'd care about.

Convince me not to do this foolish thing. I'm sorely tempted because (1) I've always wanted one; (2) I've read that the Df's sensor is sublime; (3) my computer is slow to process the D810's 36 MP files; and (4) I simply don't need 36 MP. If the Df had 24 MP, the decision would be easy; but at 16 MP it almost crosses the line into not-enough-pixels. I may miss the 15 MP DX crop mode of the D810. (The Df's DX crop is a rather pitiful 7 MP!) The trade will not be cheap. At over 100K actuations, my very clean D810 is worth perhaps $800. A Df in excellent condition is about $1200. In order to feel better about the expense, I may need to sacrifice my D300 as well. What do you think of this putative exchange? Is it idiotic, or merely ill-advised?

Obvious in hindsight.

I guess that explains why the 28mm f/2 AI-S that i bought for $180 was a dog. Seller must have known it too.

If anyone has a spare, unscratched, type-B2 focusing screen for FM2/FE2/FA that they have no use for, I wouldn't mind taking it off your hands. Especially if you're willing to take less than market price for it!

A shot of even the cheapest whiskey tastes good when I add a heaping tablespoon of sugar to it. ;)

These screens have a coarser ground surface than a laser-etched DSLR screen. Doesn't that make focus "pop" more and thus easier?

I for one would still like to know if Mike's idea of reversing the optics in a 1.4x TC would result in a workable speedbooster. Perhaps the TC optics could be removed and stuffed into an FTZ adapter, backwards.

Note to self: If camera stops working, soak in lighter fluid overnight.

If you have old gear you don't use and that doesn't even have sentimental value for you, why not sell it at a low price—or give it away? Someone else, usually someone of far lesser means than you, can get good use out of your old gear. So let them! To hang on to old gear solely because it is an affront to sell it so cheap is just selfish. Please note, i am speaking of retired gear. If you have an old camera that you like to pull out of the closet once a year and shoot a roll of film through for sentimental or any other reasons, if it brings you joy, then by all means keep it!

The repairman is Richard Haw, who has a large collection of excellent repair how-to's on his website. I thought he was a member here, but perhaps he's only on NikonGear and Facebook.