Developer / Film Combo For Studio Portraits

[malcolm_mccaffery]

I'm new to dark room, and so far have been using Kodak Tri-X400 exposed for ISO1250 primarily and processing with

diafine. I tried TMAX 100 at 160 with diafine, and find it OK but not as keen on it.

I quite like the look of the TriX+Diafine for street photography but now planning to experiment with some studio shots and

want to try something different.

 

I have a couple of rolls each of the following film:

 

- Ilford FP4+ 125

- Ilford FP5+ 400

- Kodak TMAX 100

 

For developer I have

 

- Diafine

- Kodak D76

- Rodinal R09 One Shot

 

Will be printing on Ilford Multigrade FB Classic Paper 11x14" Glossy

 

While I expect some experimentation will be necessary, I wonder given these films/developers/paper combination what would

be good starting points for exposure/developer/ratio and what effect I might get given a certain combination

 

Thanks

[moon_mullins1]

I've used Tri-X for years in both 35mm and medium formats and while it does a lot of things well it is not my first

choice for portraits. FP-4 would be a good choice in D-76 and T-Max 100 is excellent. As for exposure that depends

on your lighting but for portraits I'd aim for f/8 or f/11 giving good depth in what is often the sweet spot for many

lenses. I don't know what format you are shooting but for 6x6 or 6x7 something in the 150-180 mm will be good. For

35mm I would say either an 85 or a 105/2.5 Nikkormat, a superb portrait lens. Some experimenting will be required,

quite a bit honestly but you will find what you like.

[bethe_fisher]

<p>The best starting points for any film/developer combo is with box speed and manufacturer recommended times. From those results you can then decide if you want more detail in shadows or in highlights or whatever and then adjust to get what you want. <br>

I've never used Tri-X at 1250 in diafine, so I don't know what it might be that you like about it. Can you be more specific? Or post examples?</p>

 

[glen_h]

<p>Diafine can bring up the shadows a little more than ordinary push processing. It is a compensating developer, similar to stand development, but much faster. Even so, some of the speeds on the Diafine box might have just a little exaggeration. Some years, they have claimed 1600. </p>

<p>If you need the speed, Tri-X in Diafine at 1250 is likely better than Tri-X in D-76 pushed. (I believe Kodak gives times for 1600, but not 1250.) If you don't need the speed, you can use Diafine, but with not quite as high an EI. An extra stop of exposure helps with many developers.</p>

<p>For studio shots, with studio lighting, you probably don't need EI 1250. </p>

<p>For FP4+, Diafine says EI 250. If I could, I would give it 200 or 160. </p>

<p>For T-Max 100, Diafine says 160. T-Max should have at least a half stop exposure latitude, so that isn't stretching much. Note that Kodak allows for EI 200 without development change.</p>

<p>http://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/prod/files/files/products/f4016_TMax_100.pdf</p>

<p>For 11x14, the finer grain of FP4+ or T-Max 100 is probably reasonable, unless you are trying for available light. </p>

[keith_tapscott]

<p>Ilford FP4 Plus.<br>

Develop in ID11 or D76 diluted 1+1. Use the time printed inside the film box.<br>

You may need to open the lens aperture by half an f/stop more than the light meter indicates for close up head photos if taking an incident light reading.</p>

[kaiyen]

<p>I personally like the TMAX films for portraits in D76/ID-11 (use the latter, technically). To get the right skin tone I would in fact adjust either the EI or exposure to keep the skin from getting too dark of a tone. </p>