kaiyen

Hi all, I recently-ish got a Horseman VH. Not the VH-R. Lots of online stuff about the latter, which largely applies to the former, but not entirely. For example: 1 - Do I need cams for the VH? Seem to be for coupling the rangefinder so I'm thinking not. There is definitely NOT a holder for cams on my VH. 2 - How do I make sure my infinity stops are in the right place? I have 3 of them, with one very close to the beginning of the rail, and two right next to each other at the end of the rail. So close that I wonder if there is a meaningful difference between using them. I also can't figure out how to move the infinity stops if they are not in the right place. They are not color-coded. I did do a search on here, and did find some info on the cameras in general, but nothing specific to my questions. Thanks! Allan

Yes, Freestyle carries it. I'll drop the conversation about whether I can have a darkroom or not...

Thanks all. The camera came with 2 holders so I thought it would be fun to try it. Might I like it more than taking out my 5x7? Perhaps. I will definitely use the roll film adapter more often than not, though. Just for kicks. I understand the theory that "everyone has a darkroom" but...no, not everyone does. I have 2 small kids that run around and don't go to bed until 9-9:30 at night (that's just when they sleep. Want to babysit for me and help me figure out how to get them to go to sleep earlier?) The laundry room, which is the only possibly option, is too heavy of a thoroughfare to block off for long periods of time. I can develop 135 and 120 very fast in tanks, and of course not close off the room. But I have done tray development in my photo classes and I'm just not that proficient to be efficient in time. I get the argument, but everyone has a different situation, and we should be sensitive to that. Thank you.

Hi all, I recently acquired a Horseman VF 2x3/6x9 camera. It can handle 2x3 (I know, 2 1/4 x 3 1/4...) sheet film holders as well. I don't have a darkroom so can't tray develop. Suggestions? I'd really like to be able to occasionally do sheets. I got the Yankee Adjustable tank but hear bad things about it, with uneven development, etc. Though I guess it's worth a try. But anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks. Allan

Thanks for the tips. Yes, I am considering going it on my own. But it is daunting.

Hi all, I realize one doesn't have to go on a photography tour in order to do photography, obviously. I've been on lots of general trips where I've been able to bring along most of the gear I wanted to. But breaking out a tripod or something is a different level, I think, than some outfits might tolerate in terms of keeping groups moving, etc. I have been looking at a trip to the Galapagos Islands. Has anyone gone with an outfit like Intrepid Travel with intent to still use it largely as a photographic experience? Thoughts? Thanks, Allan

Thanks for the help, all. Interesting contrasting opinions. I'll make up my mind soon on the 2.8.

Dieter - good point. Renting makes sense. I always forget about that option (partially because I had a bad experience once with renting but I shouldn't write off the entire possibility because of that). Thanks.

Hi all, Does anyone own any variant of the 70-200 f2.8 AND the f4 version? Do you find them so redundant as to be pointless? My Tamon 70-210 f4 is in the shop. I love the lens. Light weight, etc. It's not as sharp as I'd like to I sent it in to be looked at. Now I find myself going out for a trip (poor planning) soon and might want/need a 70-200 ish lens during that time. I have the funds for one (the 70-200 2.8 S, as I've gone mirrorless) but...will I then never use the f4? Curious if anyone has both and found use cases. Obviously if I'm just out and about the f4 weight is a reason to have it but enough of one? Thanks.

Thansk @peter_fowler . That helps a lot. I'm using a Sekonic 308. Again, I know bracketing is key.

Thanks for the information, all. I know the speeds will be low, and that of course meters are not metering for IR. I know I'll have to bracket. But I have to start somewhere. I appreciate the guidance. Allan

@peter_fowler you mean set the meter at ISO3, right? I'm shooting with a camera that doesn't have TTL metering so I'd use a handheld meter. Just confirming. With an R72 filter which is 5 stops I believe.

Hi all, Been a looooong time since I posted on photo.net. I'm going to embark on an effort to eat up my remaining IR stock. HIE and EIR in 135, Konica, Efke, and Ilford in 120. My question is on metering. My notes on my technique are not clear from when I was last shooting IR a few years ago, and searches give me confusing answers. I'll try to keep my question direct. Let's take Konica 750. What do I set the meter at, when metering without a filter? I will be using a Hoya R72 filter, but the camera I'm using at least for medium format has no meter, so I'll be using a spot meter, probably (just what I have handy - I might pick up an incident meter). I know I have to bracket. Suggestions? I have EI "30-50" in my notes but that has to be before the filter factor, yeah? So I'd drop 5 stops to account for the filter? I've read of Konica being in the single digits so that actually makes sense. Hope that makes some sense. Appreciate the help.

Hi all, Me again! So the original plan for a safari fell through, but a new one has emerged. It's about 10 months away but I like to plan ahead... Since I first posted, I've acquired a 24-120 f/4 VR as a general travel lens. I prefer my Sigma 24-70 2.8 whenever I can, but the extra reach seems like it could useful. I'm now thinking of the 24-120, plus the 80-400 on a 2nd DX body, or the Sigma 150-600 Contemporary on an FX body. I say FX because it reduces the gap between FOV on the lenses. I'm wary of having 120-225 uncovered. I do like having 600mm of reach. I do not feel I need 900mm FOV. DxO unfortunately doesn't have anything on the Sigma. Anyway. Initial thoughts? I'm still brewing on this. I'll have other lenses with me as we'll be doing Victoria Falls (will bring something wide) and gorillas as well.

Hi all, I've been on the hunt for a workshop (or perhaps combination of workshops) in the Moab area (Arches, Canyonlands, etc) that offers both daytime (sunrise/sunset) and nighttime (astrophotography). I found one (Marisa Marulli) but it of course conflicts with my wife's grad school graduation. Sigh. Any thoughts or recommendations? That's a single 4 day workshop and that would be fine with me if I could do both types. But I'd be open to staying longer and doing 2 separate workshops, though of course cost comes into play with multiple workshops. This isn't a "once in a lifetime" thing since I can always go back again. But I have a rare opportunity to splurge a bit and make something special happen. I'd love to get both types of photography into the trip. thanks. allan

Here's another, 5x7 specific page lenses for 5x7 in

I'm reposting from the Education forum, which might not have been the right place. But I'm not sure this is right, either, so... I'm seriously considering doing a workshop in the Arches NP area. I know many such workshops include other areas as well. The problem is that searches find several options. The Nat Geo one is too expensive. My budget is probably around $2000 maximum (which seems to be more than enough based on searches). Any recommendations of particularly good ones? What should I be asking myself in order to narrow down the search? thanks.

Hi all, I'm seriously considering doing a workshop in the Arches NP area. I know many such workshops include other areas as well. The problem is that searches find several options. The Nat Geo one is too expensive. My budget is probably around $2000 maximum (which seems to be more than enough based on searches). Any recommendations of particularly good ones? What should I be asking myself in order to narrow down the search? thanks.

thanks. I haven't played with DxO for some time...

Thanks @photo_galleries So with the 24-120 at least it's a "seamless" FOV range. The Sigma 150-600 Contemporary (not Sport) is a compelling entrant, too. Easier to handle so I'm told. I expect to do mostly beanbag action with the long lens, by the way.

A reference to something above - anyone know of a good test of the Tamron 100-400 vs. the Nikon 80-400? If I'm renting, any reason to bother with the Tamron? I'm growing a bit concerned about the 200-500 weight and AF speed. I can work out, but I can't make a lens focus faster. I'm inclined to go with nicer glass and have a 24-70 and 80-400, with the latter on a DX. I'll be losing the 70-120 (crop factor added in) range, though, which isn't trivial. How does the 24-120 compare to the 28-300? Any good reviews out there I can read? Because I'd be a bit more inclined to do that - 24-120/80-400. I'm trying to keep things simple, and minimize lens changes but I'm not trying to handicap myself, of course. thanks.

Okay, thanks for the tips. I had heard to bring wide for the times when the animals got close. Maybe I went too wide? Maybe a 24-70 2.8 (Tamron, probably) on the D600 and the Tamron 100-400 or the Nikon 80-400 on a D500 (good point on that)? Is "close" still far enough away that an 80-400 is usable? Seems awfully long to me. Bring the 14-24 for astro and landscapes? Or the Sigma 24 1.4 if I decide to go prime?

Hi all, As promised.. I know there are other threads out there on lens options for a safari, on multiple fora and multiple sites. I've read through as many of them as possible. So hopefully my questions are fairly specific. I have a pretty robust budget for new glass, but I'm trying to avoid getting glass that I won't use a whole lot more afterwards. A 400 2.8 isn't in the cards for me, for instance. And the 80-400 or a big telezoom aren't really "standard" lenses for me. Therefore, I'm going to be renting, unless someone has a recommendation not to. bodies: I have a D600 and a D300. I still love the D300 but figure 12MP is a bit low. I'm thinking of renting a D7500. Thoughts? lenses: I'm hearing go with a wide angle and a long telephoto. wide options I already own: Nikon 14-24 Nikon 18-35 AF-D I'm worried the 14-24 is too heavy, plus its bulbous front element means I can't protect it with a UV filter. I would be willing to consider an upgrade to the 18-35 AFS if that's a good option for a lighter weight wider lens. The 14-24 could double for astro photography, though, which is an interesting but not primary goal. I suppose I could do the 18-35 plus a wide prime. Maybe the Sigma 20 1.4? I would put the wide angle on the D600. telephoto options would need to be rented. I'm thinking one of the following: 80-400 AFS VR 300 f4 (might consider buying this one) 200-500 f5.6 Sigma 150-600 this would go on the D7500 for the extra crop factor to give me a bit more reach. thoughts?

Hi all, I've been researching safaris, and I"m curious if anyone has recommendations for actual tour companies. I've been eyeing Kruger though I am not wedded to that park/region. Just seems easily accessible. I know that most tour companies will be photography-friendly in the sense that the vehicles are quasi-open, etc, but I"m wondering if there are any that you'd recommend in particular? Or would I be safe with just about any reputable firm? I'll have some questions on lens selection later... thanks in advance, allan

<p>Okay. So I've seen results from users of DSLR scanning that have beaten some of the best flatbeds out there. It is a lot of work with stitching, etc, and it is done with multiple exposures across the frame (even 35mm). Some use the copying tubes, sure, but I was looking more of the multiple exposure, stitch-together approach.</p> <p>I formerly wet mounted my negatives to AN glass on my Epson 750. Very good results. With 2 young kids running around and no dedicated office this is not an option anymore. I may go to dry mounting because DSLR scanning using a copy stand (and I wasn't wedded to only a copy stand, but an enlarger just doesn't fit in with my goals and I wouldn't have anywhere to permanently set it up) is proving unfeasible. </p> <p>But I've seen some amazing results with DSLRs and scanning. I think it's more that people don't make all-in-one DSLR scanners than because the technique is flawed compared to a scanner. </p>