Is Caffenol C cheap? - Or what else to get?

[Jochen_S]

<p>I've been out of the darkroom hobby for quite a while, but it seems I should try to get my fridge emptied...<br>

So I am wondering on which developer I should settle. In the past I liked Microphen and the T-Max soup. But should probably pick something like Rodinal for more occasional use and optimized shelf times. - I am open for all suggestions.<br>

Side note: Some Vitamin C powder I got had "Best before**" imprinted. - Does it turn bad in its developer function when stored for ages?<br>

The environment here is rather smoggy / foggy and my lenses are unlikely to be the very crispest, so a bit of extra contrast would be welcome.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>HC-110 sounds like what you need. <br>

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</p>

[Mark Z]

<p>I second Larry's recommendation. HC-110 is cheap and has a long shelf life. You can control contrast with your exposure and development.</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>I third Larry's HC-110 recommendation. So long as you mix direct from syrup, it's about as cheap as you can get, and the syrup lasts forever. It's also a very good developer.<br>

If you want cheaper, mix D-76 from scratch in small batches, so it doesn't go bad on you.</p>

 

[User_6502147]

<p>Jochen, I intend to do some tests (5x7) over the holidays or beyond....to see which fits my mo best. I can email you when I'm done. Here are the developers that I just ordered. </p>

<p>HC-110 <br>

XTOL <br>

Adox R09<br>

Formulary D23<br>

Ilford DD-X</p>

<p>I was also going to get D76, but decided to skip it...and for now I'm not playing with the Pyro either. Much depends what sort of photos you'll shoot. The Adox could get contrasty....and I've seen HC-110 and DD-X doing similar.</p>

<p>Les</p>

[don_v]

<p>Do you by chance have darkroom scales and raw chemicals handy? If yes, mix up a batch of Thornton's two bath film developer (Google Thornton two bath for detailed info and recipes, or go to the late Barry Thornton's web site which is still being maintained OL by his disciples, bless them), which can be mixed in three variations - Thornton's, Stoeckler's, and Ansel Adams versions.<br>

I favor the Ansel Adams version, which gives slightly higher contrast on most modern B&W films. Very easy to used, fixed processing times 3-5 minutes depending on film speed, temperature not really important as long as it isn't boiling or almost turned to ice, agitation can be varied to suit. I recently forgot two 35mm Tmax 400 rolls in the second bath for 22 minutes and still got fine negatives.<br>

I've used the TTB-AA consistently since 2000 after decades of trying almost all the developers already recommended in this thread. Roll film negatives from my Rollei TLRs and Fuji GA645i come out absolutely shining and I can easily make enlargements to 16x20 (35mm) or larger (120).<br>

If you don't have scales, Thornton handily provided a quick mix recipe using teaspoons, I've tried it and it works OK. Add a few pinches more chemicals to upgrade to the AA mix. The higher contrast is particularly suitable for optical enlarging but also does nicely for scans. If I was ever unable to get raw chemicals to mix my own, then I would probably go back to D76 1+1, which always did all I expected of it.<br>

For my needs, the Thornton/AA two bath is better than D76, in 50+ years in the darkroom I had never thought any developer would be, but this is. Experimentation is the spice of life...</p>

[jamie_robertson2]

<p>I would avoid the modern Rodinal replacement (R09). It is nowhere near as good as the old stuff. The shelf life is poor.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Jamie, The Adanol or Blazanol depending on your country is the same as the old Rodinal and packed in nitrogen so it last just as long. The R09 and R09 one shot are suspect to me too as you suspect.</p>

[Bill Bowes]

<p>Hello everyone. If anyone wants to "wet their feet" in the Pyro / staining developers, might I recommend Obsidian Aqua (OA). A house fire this summer burned everything up, so I decided to try OA. Google OA, go to Jay DeFehr's website and read up. The two chemicals can be purchased from ArtCraft (NJ) for less than $30 USD for a liter kit. Using 1ml per 120 roll, cost is REALLY low per film. The Potassium or Sodium Carbonates used for the working solution, can be sub'd with Arm & Hammer Wash Soda , which is anhydrous Sodium Carbonate. I use 17-19 minutes as a base developing time, but try times mentioned on Jay's blog. Aloha, Bill</p><div></div>

[larrydressler]

<p>Kentmere 400 and High Contrast I see there. OA I found was better to pull a stop.</p>

[Bill Bowes]

<p>Hello again. If the 120 UFX 400 film is "actually" Kentmere, I won't complain. Ultrafine's pricing is OK (I buy the combo packs) and I find the film very good for a general purpose film. I can always fall back on the TMax or Delta emulsions. My OA developing times arrive at my values for full scale, wet printing (condenser) negatives. When scanned, two, perhaps three, "extra" zones appear, so I do use some contrast controls along with the "spotting" feature of my editor software (PhotoScape). I have noticed that scrunching the files from about 6800 pixels per side to the 700 for the forum REALLY messes up what I consider a very "Normal" scene...some end up flat, others a bit blown on the high values...at least my pic's print out with the full Zones I "see" when tripping the shutter. Aloha, Bill</p>

[Jochen_S]

<p>TY all for the replies. - Curiosity: What stopped Rodinal production? What are the pitfalls connected to Caffenol C? No I don't own proper scales yet, but don't mind buying.</p>

[Fotohuis RoVo]

<p>There is a problem with Lupus the owner of the Agfa Photo brand about the Rodinal TM . However R09 o.s. or Paranol-S is made by Tetenal now in bulk. Compard is doing the re-packing under R09 one shot. Calbe had its own version R09. They are not much different, in fact only with a densitometer you can measure the difference. In time original Rodinal (Agfa) and R09 (Calbe/Foma) was there I did a test. It is just all in the margin however the life span of original Rodinal was better due to Nitrogen stream packing in their bottles. After Agfa Photo, A&O did the production, later CPP&S an U.K. pharma company. They were the last owner of the Vaihingen-Enz Agfa chemical plant.<br>

In HD-PE Silar bottles the Tetenal, then the Compard Rodinal/R09 are the best. If you finish your Rodinal type developer in a few years it won't be any problem.</p>

[john_stockdale2]

<p>I think that Don's advice about the Barry Thornton two bath is worth considering. The chemicals required are few and precision isn't needed so even spoon measurements would suffice if you don't want to bother with scales. You can mix up whatever and whenever you need.<br>

<br />I think that the advice for HC-110 is also very good. Long lasting, consistent and capable of quite bright negatives if you choose suitable dilution and time. Some reading here:</p>

<p>http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</p>

<p>Maybe Caffenol is good and consistent. Vitamin C developers can be flaky if stored (as liquid). Powder ascorbic acid and ascorbate salts might deteriorate a bit but should be good for years. Keep it dry.</p>

 

[Fotohuis RoVo]

<p>The only good receipt in <em>Ascorbic Acid</em> type developers for a longer life span is <strong>PC-TEA</strong> from <em>Patrick Gainer</em> (BTW he died a few weeks ago on the age of 88, RIP).</p>