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How to make my Tri-X less curly


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<p>Hi guys!</p>

<p>I shoot tri-x 400 @ 1600 and develop in D76. I use hypoclear and photoflow as well and dry in a heated cabinet for 20 minutes. My negatives are coming out increasingly curly and it's beginning to make scanning a real challenge. Just wondering if you guys have any tips to help get my negatives a little (or a lot) flatter. Just for comparison I also have 2 rolls of HP5 i had shot earlier this year and processed in the same chemicals and processes and they are super flat.</p>

<p>Thanks!<br />Andrew</p>

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<p>If you know how long your negs are, you can use clothespins to hold them taut as they dry [if you're not using a cabinet]. Also could be the cabinet is too hot and dries one side faster than the other, which will curl it a fair bit. I air dry the few that I've done on Tri-X 400 and have had no problems thus far [though I've probably just jinxed myself]</p>
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<p>many years ago I used some agfa isopan reckord<br>

and noticed it was almost a spring and very curley.<br>

SAfr=ter that I used Kodak B&W film exclusily<br>

as it would lie flat and never curled.<br>

I think the heat is causing it to curl.<br>

sometimes I would put on thwo clips and lie the film on a sofe back. it would turn out flat and stright.</p>

<p>this was before my older son could climb up and grab it<br>

Now he is 54 and has ghray hair!<br>

maybe the manufacturing processes have changed.<br>

try without heat.<br>

swip[e the film betwen two fingers to remove drops of water and just let it hang.</p>

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<p>Which direction is it curling? The way it is rolled up in the camera, or side to side?</p>

<p>I had many rolls of negatives rolled up for many years (maybe 40) then got to put them into ClearFile sheet. It takes some time, but eventually they lose enough curl. </p>

<p>One roll was wound so tight that I hung it in the darkroom with weight on the bottom for weeks. </p>

<p>Getting them into the holder for the scanner is never too easy, but usually it works.</p>

-- glen

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<p>@Ciaran Do you mean to say that I should be clipping both the top and bottom to something as the dry? I generally put a big heavy clip at the bottom to try to keep them taught while drying.<br /><br />@Jeff I do the same but I usually try to develop and scan same day and this is certainly not the immediate solution I need to make the same day scan easier.<br /><br />I guess I'm hoping that, through chemistry temp, or different (but equally fast) drying technique or something I could get them to just come out flatter.</p>
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<p>I've had the same problem.. finally had to learn patience.<br>

I leave it hang over night, then cut them and put them in a Print File sleeve, and place it in a big book, much larger than the sleeve. Let it sit over night, with a couple of other books on top.. next morning there flat.. ready to scan.<br>

Yep two days.. going through the patience test right now.. ;-)</p>

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<p>in that case, use a 'wash aid' to make it dry faster. I'm sure most people would mention 'photoflo'. Try to keep the negatives (or positives!) taut. I just hang them from a high bar (IKEA PRESSA) and use two pegs on the bottom. The pegs that come with tanks may work by puncturing the film to grab it - although it's the best hold, the marks can scratch the film if you accidentally rub it against itself.</p>
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