35mm Tanks

[denny_rane]

<p>I am wondering what you guys are using for developing tanks.?<br>

Are the so called "Day-Light" tanks still being made.? The type of tanks where you can clip on to the very front part of the leader, and start to roll the film off the cartridge, all in room light. So far, the only ones I have seen are used.<br>

Thank You</p>

[johncox]

<p>There are several options I have used, although not what you have described. There are metal tanks that you work the film onto in either a dark room or a light tight bag or a plastic tank that works the same way. I would recommend the AP plastic tanks from freestyle. Although this is a can of worms -asking about this on an internet forum.</p>

[denny_rane]

<p>Hey John -<br>

That's funny.....I realize this might be one of those questions that has been asked a Zillion times, so I am sorry. Let me rephrase it.<br>

1. Any of you guys using the "Daylight Tanks", and if so which ones.?<br>

2. Do you guys prefer the Patterson/Plastic Tanks over the "traditional" Metal/SS Tanks.?<br>

Thank You</p>

[larrydressler]

<p> I use both with 120 and 35mm Also some old Yankee tanks and reels with 16mm. I was thinking of this today. Many hate Yankee 4x5 tanks because they leak. I though just fixed mine with some electrical tape as a gasket. I layed down some non perm glue first then stretched the tape tight.. It has held for 3 uses.<br>

SS reels are a crapshoot even used Nikkor reels as they bend . Best plastic reels I have are the wid flange from Freestyle. The seem to fit almost all my plastic tanks.<br>

So besides tanks consider the reels too.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Rondinax tanks? Those haven't been made in years. <a href="https://rondinax.wordpress.com/">Here's a website with some info</a>. Too pricey now, mostly a collector's item.</p>

[johncox]

<blockquote>

<p ><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=8730483">denny rane</a><a href="/member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="/v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub1.gif" alt="" /></a>, Aug 01, 2015; 12:08 a.m.</p>

 

<p>Hey John -<br />That's funny.....I realize this might be one of those questions that has been asked a Zillion times, so I am sorry. Let me rephrase it.<br />1. Any of you guys using the "Daylight Tanks", and if so which ones.?<br />2. Do you guys prefer the Patterson/Plastic Tanks over the "traditional" Metal/SS Tanks.?<br />Thank You</p>

 

</blockquote>

 

<p>I wasn't offended, there's just a lot of varying opinions. <br>

There are also several different plastic tanks. I like the Arista Premium from Freesyle.</p>

 

[denny_rane]

<p>10-4<br>

Thanks for the info. I am just getting back into all this "stuff", and I Really Appreciate The Help.</p>

[nickc1]

<p>I have both sizes of Rondinax tank here and have used different examples of the 35mm one for years - the 120 less so.</p>

<p>They are a doddle to use and in my experience, if dry, almost foolproof. The earlier ones were bakelite and chip easily while the later ones are polycarbonate or similar and seem to be a bit tougher.</p>

<p>The only drawbacks as far as I find are that they only hold a single film and I tend to want to build up a batch of two, four or six films and process these together if possible as I have no permanent darkroom set up. Secondly the developer only comes halfway up the spiral (it is on its side in these tanks) so continuous agitation is necessary for even development, and this leads to two problems. firstly the effect of continuous agitation on development times would need to be calculated - anything from 10% to 50% less depending upon the film/dev combination and secondly if the developing time is more than a few minutes it hurts to keep tuning the small knob round and round! so some developers that have longer times than say 5 minutes or so are not well suited to these tanks. In addition if you wanted to try some techniques such as stand development or dilute development they are impractical.</p>

<p>It would be wrong to say that they are not useful on occasion eg when away from home, but in my personal opinion you would do better getting a conventional tank and a changing bag first and get one of these later should you feel that you need it.</p>

<p>Unfortunately I am unable to comment on other daylight loading tanks such as the Jobo range as I have never used them.</p>

[chris_waller]

<p>I have always used Paterson tanks. You need at least a changing-bag to load them, but it's easy enough with the Paterson self-loading reels.<br>

I know the tape of tank you are referring to but can't think of the name of the manufacturer. I haven't seen one for years.</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>Probably most of those daylight load tanks can't do agitation by inversion. There's a level of compromise in "twirl" agitation.<br>

So far as I know, the only tanks being made are Paterson, and the no-name stainless steel ones with plastic lids from China. The Paterson tanks are really well designed and made, but they require a lot of chemistry per roll. The Chinese tanks are functional, but the plastic lids crack, and the reels are junk; they often arrive pre-bent (and thus ruined).<br>

If you want to economize and only use 8 ounces of developer per roll, buy a used Nikor tank on eBay, and get a new or used Hewes 35mm reel. The Hewes reel is superbly made, and much more durable than the Nikor reels. Only downside of the Hewes reel is that you can't fit two in a 15-ounce Nikor tank, although two will fit in the rare 18 ounce Nikor tank.</p>

[SCL]

<p>I used the Rondinax for over 30 years - liking the no need for a changing bag or darkroom, and I found the more common steel & reel tanks to be less friendly to my clumsy fingers. When I wanted to begin experimenting with stand development a few years ago, I reverted to steel tanks, again, with mixed results. Finally I gave in and got a Paterson Universal tank, and it has been a joy to use. So I'd recommend skipping the Rondinax, for all the reasons mentioned above, and going with a Paterson Universal - you will need a changing bag or dark closet to load it though.</p>

[denny_rane]

<p>Thanks Guys -<br>

Guess I will go with the Patterson and bag.<br>

Thanks Again for all the info/help.</p>

[andrew_brown7]

<p>Hi,<br>

Coming late to this.....1 day...!<br>

I've always used Paterson tanks and reels and I've been switched on to Stand Development via another thread here and so now there is no worry about leaking! I bought 2 different sized dark bags 40 years ago and they're still as good as new, and in fact the Paterson tanks are at least that old as well. Some may well be older as I bought them 2nd hand. An amazing quality of product.</p>

[denny_rane]

<p>Not trying to open a "Can Of Worms".....but why do you prefer Stand Development over the typical agitation, move the stuff around every so often approach.?<br>

Thank You</p>

[Fotohuis RoVo]

<p>The Agfa Rondinax was already mentioned. A too old system but also the newer Jobo 2400 daylight tank was not really succesful.<br /> Apart that you will need 450ml of fluid for one 35mm film.<br /> Better is a regular Jobo 1510 tank (250ml fluid volume) or the mentioned AP tank.</p>

[Fotohuis RoVo]

<p>Stand development will give you with most developers a large semi-compensating effect. At the end the developing process automatically stops. The disadvantages: Problems in uneven development (depending on the choice of developer) and you are loosing sharpness.</p>