How to process 122 size film

[patrick_macalister]

<p>REcently bought an antique camera - more for its looks than for practical use - and found it has a roll of exposed 122 size film in it.<br>

Can anyone suggest how I should process it? I need suggestions about chemistry, times etc.<br>

There is no indication of its age.<br>

<br />Many thanks in advance.</p>

[john_wiegerink1]

<p>Three small pails or bowls and a darkroom/night time. Unspool the film and hold it by each end and see-saw it in the developer, then stop bath and finally the fixer. Many folks who try to salvage old film seem to use Kodak HC-110, but you'll have to do a search. I'd suggest you ask this question on the Classic camera forum here and I will guaranty you and answer. JohnW</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>Is there any indication of what kind of film it is?<br /> If it's orthochromatic, you can use a red safelight and develop by inspection.</p>

<p>If it is panchromatic, on the other hand, you might get by with an extremely dim green safelight and after see-sawing away for a while in total darkness, you could turn on the safelight for a few seconds every once in while to see how it is doing.<br /> The instructions for cut film at http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Inspection/inspection.html may be adaptable for you.</p>

<p>A slightly confused discussion is also at http://www.photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/009dRP </p>

[patrick_macalister]

<p>Thanks John and JDM.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>122 format was introduced in 1903 and discontinued in 1971. It produces 3 1/4 x 5 1/2 "postcard format" images. There may be some reels in existence that will accommodate it for daylight tank processing.<br>

HC110 @ 65°F produces low base fog on old B&W films. Color film was introduced in 1935. It is essential to know what film type it is to advise further. </p>

[john_shriver]

<p>Yes, there were Nikor stainless steel 122 size reels. Scarce as hen's teeth. (I've got one.)</p>

[James G. Dainis]

http://www.photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/00c9oj

 

On the first photo in this link you can see a man on the booklet tray developing medium format film.

[Aoresteen]

<p>You will need a 90mm reel for 122 film. As John states they are scarce as hen's teeth. But you can make one easily.</p>

<p>Take a 35mm 36 exp stainless steel reel and cut it in half. Using a wood dowel as the center space the cut halfs 90mm apart. Then epoxy in place. Let dry for a day or so and you are good to go. Make sure the reel halfs are aligned with the ends lined up.</p>

<p>I made one like this for 70mm film way back in 1978 and I still have it. It's packed away so I can't post a photo of it.</p>

[Aoresteen]

<p>I got a buch off darkroom stuff out of storage today and found my homemade 70mm reel.</p>

<p>You could make a 90mm easily. Here it is:</p>

<p><img src="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e5/aoresteen/Photo/70mmhomemadereel1_zps8310fbab.jpg" alt="" width="637" height="684" /></p>

[ronald_gratz]

<p>I have several old cameras that use 122 film (my favorite is an old Zeiss-Ikon Nixe ) and through ebay was able to accumulate a fair number of rolls of 122 Kodak Verichrome Pan over the years, still usable even though there is some fog on some of the rolls. I was also able to purchase a Nikkor 122 developing tank and reel with loading flange. I have processed ~ 20 rolls of 122 VP over the past few years.<br>

Despite having the proper developing tank with the reel and a loading flange, I find that the rolls of VP have too much curl to load reliably. The film jumps out of the reel grooves and sticks together. I did sacrifice one of my rolls and practiced loading in daylight to try to get the technique down but cannot get past the inherent curl of the film. As a result I have come to prefer the old "dip-and-dunk" method (John Wiegerink's description) for developing the film. I have not lost a roll doing it this way. It is also cheaper than buying a 122 tank (if you can find one) or trying to make a reel. By the way, I get very printable negatives and have exhibited 11x14 prints made from these negatives. I have used primarily D-76 but have also tried Rodinal. I have been intending to try HC-110 but my results with the other developers are good enough so this has not been a priority.<br>

As for times, my 1970 Kopak Darkroom Dataguide says to process rollfilm verichrome pan in D-76 develop for 7 minutes, HC-110 Dilution A requires 4 minutes and HC-110 Dilution B requires 8 minutes. Whichever you use I recommend you process for 1 - 2 minutes longer to increase contrast. I have not tried anti-fog since I am getting good results without it. <br>

Good Luck!<br>

Ron Gratz</p>

[glen_h]

<p>My grandfather told me about the see-saw method 45 years ago, but I have always used tanks. (I believe it was more popular in the ortho days.) I have a tank for 116, which I have used a few times.<br>

I hope to try some 122 soon, though. Or maybe something else to practice with.</p>

 

[john_shriver]

You need a good clip at the hub of a 122 reel, to hold the film. The Nikon 122 reel has one, and one needs to do the same on a home-made one. Then center the end of the film very carefully.

If making a 122 reel by splitting and gluing a smaller one, use a 35mm 20 exposure reel, as it has the right number of turns. The 36-exposure one has far more turns than necessary, and would be most unpleasant to load.

122 Nikor reels show up every year or two on eBay.

I'm thinking of making a 103 reel, to use a No. 4 Kodak Panoram. Nikor Products never made one. The idea of a dowel sounds reasonably simple. I'd thought of using stainless steel tubing, but finding the right inside diameter is hard. It will require more turns than 122 film does, roll is longer.

[glen_h]

I finally got a 122 Nikor tank and reel. And the loading guide!

It came with the instruction sheet, which indicates that they also made 118 reels.