Problems with new scanner/ developer

[johncox]

<p>I just scanned my first rolls developed in TMAX RS. I've previously used various developers and had no real problems. There's two possible factors here I have a new developer (TMAX RS) and a new scanner (primefilm 7250 pro 3)</p>

<p>The first this is that the negatives look like the fixer is exhausted, I've never had this before. I'd refix but I waited a few days after developing to scan because I was awaiting the scanner. I've probably missed the boat of fixing.<br>

They also look too contrasty, but I also have several area's without shadow detail. I don't think I can pull back on development time, at the same time I think I need to. <br>

The negatives are also out of focus (possibly the scanner?). I've heard bad things about this scanner, so it wouldn't surprise me if the scanner was to blame.</p>

<p>Here are couple shots from the developed rolls.<br>

<img src="http://www.theworldexposed.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/image033.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="424" /></p>

<p><img src="http://www.theworldexposed.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/image002.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="432" /></p>

<p> </p>

[john_shriver]

<p>There's no time limit on re-fixing if you didn't fully fix the negatives. If there's a white or silver haze down the middle of the film, it needs more fixing.</p>

 

[SCL]

<p>Check the actual focus of the negatives with a loupe before attributing it to the scanner. As far as contrast on the negatives (not the scanned images), often overly contrasty negatives are the result of too frequent or vigorous agitation during development; and a lack of shadow detail could be a function of insufficient exposure (metering for the shadows) at the camera level, or developing the highlights too quickly and not giving the developer sufficient time to develop the highlights - I've typically worked with a reduced developer concentration and longer development time to address this issue in some of my work...this is the basis for the "stand development" process.</p>

[nbg90455]

<p>What film are you using -- from my own experience, TMax RS is a great developer for TMax film, but not so good for PlusX (which is one of the reasons why I only use TMax film anymore).</p>

[johncox]

<p>I use Tri X almost exclusively.<br>

When I was developing it took about 1 minute to fill the tank, so I developed for 4 minutes (digital truth said 4.5 minutes), Would it have made more sense to go for 3.5 minutes? Also I did 10 inversions every 1 minute, is that excessive?</p>

[nbg90455]

<p>4 minutes seems a bit short for any developer -- I don't use "digital truth" but do they have a longer development time at a lower temperature?</p>

[johncox]

<p>Here is the link to their time chart for that combination. 5.75 would be the longest time at 20C</p>

<p>http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=TMax+400&Developer=TMax+RS&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C</p>

<p>I've found this site to be very accurate for HC-110, Rodinal as well as all the Ilford products I've used.</p>

[nbg90455]

<p>Are you shooting TriX or TMax 400? Anyways, it's not about accuracy per se, but for the reasons you stated above (i.e. the time it takes to pour the developer in and out), that I have always heard that 5 minutes or longer is preferable for getting consistent results</p>

[johncox]

<p>I'm shooting TriX not Tmax. I'll develop next time at a lower the temperature, the reason I've been using the shorter time is because the temperature it's stored at is 24 C. </p>

[johncox]

<p>I shot another roll, this time TMAX 400 (120), and took the above advice. The results looked good (see below).<br>

I'll caulk this up to unfamiliarity.</p>

<p><img src="http://www.theworldexposed.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/tmax-rs331.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="639" /></p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>I can't translate C to F in my head, but the shortest time I've normally used for Tri-X in D-76 at 75F is about 5 1/2 minutes. Don't know the time for Tmax developer but 4 sounds short. At any rate, developing times are from when you start pouring in the developer until the last of it comes out.<br /><br />As far as fixing, the simple way to avoid underfixing is that the fixer goes down the drain after each roll the same as the developer. No such thing as underfixing as long as you do that. Developer and fixer are relatively cheap, no point in trying to stretch them out if you end up ruining pictures. (If you do the math, a gallon of developer and fixer works out to about $2 a roll over the full gallon. If a roll of film costs $3 and you ruin it because you're trying to save $2 worth of chemicals, you're $1 in the hole.)</p>

[wblynch]

<p>I miss Plus-X, haven't tried Tri-X in Tmax developer yet. Sounds like a good combination.</p>