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nbg90455

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  1. <p>a green (aka yellow-green) filter should enhance red as well...</p>
  2. <p>I use TMax Film (both 100 & 400) with TMax-RS developer at 75F for both 120 and 4x5 -- slightly different recipe, though: I mix both parts immediately (mixture will easily keep for 12 months!), and then dilute to 1:9 when I need to develop a tank...</p>
  3. <p>Anything wrong with the offerings from Print File (i.e. their Archival Storage Page stuff)?</p>
  4. <p>You want an Arca Swiss Field Camera -- monorail with full optical bench, with the weight of a field camera.</p>
  5. <p>If you don't want to use below-the-lens filters (they are expensive and attract dust etc.), you always put the contrast filter on top of the negative carrier -- i.e. between negative carrier and the condensor...</p>
  6. <p>On a side-note, once you get the shutter working properly, you have one of the finest lenses for 4x5 work. It was designed for 5x7, so you have an image circle only surpassed by the modern 210 Sironars. Here is one of my favorite images taken with this lens:
  7. <p>Since you mentioned Printfile, this (<a href="http://www.printfile.com/cp35-7hb_25.aspx">http://www.printfile.com/cp35-7hb_25.aspx</a>) is what I have been doing for years: the contact sheet is in a pouch directly with the negs. Wouldn't worry about chemical leakage with RC paper...</p>
  8. <p>You are still using silver paper in 2014 -- you need to branch out and do some alternative process stuff: platinum or palladium or at least cyanotypes !<br> Now go to Bostick & Sullivan for some therapy !!!<br> :D</p>
  9. <p>Assuming you counted the sheet film in a darkroom or changing bag, the film should be okay -- you can always add a tad of Liquid Orthazide (sp?) to the developer to lower base fog...</p>
  10. <blockquote> <p>The cameras highest shutter speed is 250.</p> </blockquote> <p>That's probably the key here -- unless you plan to shoot a lot with filters and/or in low light, you probably need to use a 100 (+/-) speed film. Sunny-16 at f11 (defraction is going to "hit" you hard if you close the lens down more than that) will need the 1/250 (you can bet that the top speed on a camera of this vintage will be a tad slower).<br> If you already use a B&W with that speed (e.g. TMax100) just use what you have already...</p>
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