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blurry canon 16-35 2.8 usm


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<p>Hi All<br>

I got myself a second hand 16-35 2.8 the lens looks not new but has no scratches marks or blemishes on the glass and focus and focal rings are smooth and perfect.<br>

I took a few sample shots at the time but only checked them on the camera lcd.<br>

To make a long story short at home on the computer the shots and all subsequent one are virtually unusable!!<br>

I took some comparative shots with my 17-85 and there are as sharp as always.<br>

I tried to get better results with tethered shooting thu eos utility but all the same the image NEVER gets crisp and sharp its always blurry and i would nearly say more in the centre than on the edge.<br>

Is there hope that this is only a alignment problem and can be fixed by a service station as they take a minimum of $+100 just to check the lens. or should i just give up and take it as a expensive lesson!!!??<br>

for all tips and help thankfull<br>


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<p>First, let's clarify that this is a Canon FD mount lens and you used it on a Canon FD camera or another camera via an adapter. You mention an "eos utility." </p>

<p>Second, please tell us the maker of your 16-35 lens. Canon never made this lens in FD mount.</p>

<p>Third, if you using an adapter does it have glass elements? That will usually degrade images from the best of lenses.</p>

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<p>I'm pretty sure we're talking about an EF lens mount here, and probably a Canon lens as well (per the title of the thread). But regardless, if the image is truly sharp on the monitor (pixel peeping), then the image ought to be sharp on the computer monitor. I suspect that maybe you were not zooming in to maximum magnification on the camera monitor. The reason for the difference between the results of the two lenses may have something to do with the Canon EF 17-85mm IS USM lens (assuming here) being a stabilized lens design. Take a close look at the metadata for the blurry images...or post some if you can. You may find your shutter speed is too low.</p>
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<p>Hi Alex sorry it is a EF mount I appologize!!<br>

Same to youCharles.<br>

Paul i did 4 tripod mounted shots all thru the live view which to my knowledge has the mirror locked up. I took one 1/200 f10 & 1/1000 f4 with each lens EF 16-35 2.8 17-85 4-5.6.<br>

So I think I can exclude camera shake<br>

P.S. tried to insert a 100% raw of centre 150KB but could not</p>

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<p>If the lens is on a tripod and you are using live view you should be able to tell if the image is sharp even before you take the photo. Use the 10x magnification function to check that focus is pin sharp. If you can't get sharp focus when focusing manually there is something seriously wrong. If you can get sharp focus manually but not when using AF then it is possible that the AF needs to be calibrated on the lens. When testing the AF, make sure you are using the main phase detect AF, not the slow crappy contrast detect AF in live view as they are both completely deferent systems. </p>
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<p>Hi Jamie<br>

You said "If you can't get sharp focus when focusing manually there is something seriously wrong." is exactly whats happening. I did post a picture somewhere in the original thread but it seems to have gone missing with the move.</p>


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<p>Well, if you're certain that manually focusing cannot produce a sharp image then the lens needs to be sent in for repair. No doubt about that. Look on the bright side, it is a lens that is worth repairing so although you'll end up paying more than you anticipated at least you'll end up with a nice lens at the end of it. If you're in the UK there is a place called Fixation that do high quality work for much less than Canon charge. If you live elsewhere, ask around for a good recommended repair specialist before resorting to sending it to Canon.</p>
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<p>I order to rule out (or in) a lens problem, you need to remove a bunch of variables from your testing. </p>


<li>Use a tripod and a remote release. If you don't have these, place the camera on something solid and use the self-timer to release the shutter. Use mirror lockup or live view, with live view being the best option.</li>

<li>Point that camera at a well-lit target with a good, contrast subject.</li>

<li>Use a target that is flat and in a plane parallel to the sensor - not a complex landscape with subjects at varying distances, but instead something like a flat wall.</li>

<li>Shoot initially at a non-extreme aperture. f/8 is a good bet. (You can also run the test at larger apertures, all the way to f/2.8, to refine your results.)</li>

<li>For your initial test use autofocus (AF). If the results of the careful, tripod-based test are better with AF then your previous problems were not the result of an equipment problem. If the results are not ideal, go to the next step.</li>

<li>Turn AF off on your lens. Use live view set to 10x magnification to very carefully focus the lens manually on your target. Make a test exposure. If these results are good the difference between this and the previous test could be an adjustment problem with the lens and/or the camera body. Read up on Canon's micro-adjustment feature first if you camera has this capability, since micro-adjustment may resolve the problem. If this isn't an option, you may need to send the lens in for adjustment... and you might have to send the lens and body in.</li>


<p>Be careful about having unrealistic expectations for unsharpened 100% magnification crops from ultra wide lenses, especially if you are looking at RAW files. By their nature, unsharpened RAW files normally look soft. In addition, and contrary to the expectations of some, 100% magnification crops do not always look razor sharp... yet they produce excellent prints at large sizes.</p>


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<p>Hi Dan<br>

Thanks for your reply<br>

sorry I forgot to mention the camera is on a tripod and is remote controlled!<br>

I did take two shots one with f4 1/1000 & f10 1/200 as said in the reply to Paul<br>

The result from a Canon 16-35 2.8 L USM should be at least as good and sharp as the same shot taken with the same parameters from the Canon kit 17-85 4-5.6 IS USM lens Raw or jpeg.<br>

Having said all this I brought the camera to the only available repair service (Jamie: I live in Cape Town South Africa) and it seems needing alignment!</p>


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