120mm Curl?

[peter_korzaan]

<p>How best to get the curl out from processed developed 120mm?</p>

<p>(make it a lot easier to get into film holder, strips are short cause using 6x7, so can only put two, to a row in a V700)</p>

[walter_degroot]

<p>please and for maybe the last time<br>

120 mm is almost 5 inches wide<br>

long ago in the early 1900's the great yellow faher decided to assign arbitrary number to film sized<br>

it is 120(size) or its cousin 620. it is about 60mm wide.<br>

it seems interesting that 127 is never referred to as 127mm<br>

it is 46mm wide. ( nearly perfect)<br>

and 135 is 35mm wide and everybody refers to it as 35mm.<br>

the word "analog" also jars me.<br>

other manufacturers has other names for film sizes.</p>

[peter_korzaan]

<p>Ahhh, a man after my own heart...<br>

'u'se ist wright' ... and will never go there again, as I have just started shooting 120, so no better time than now to get it right... ;-)<br>

danks .. </p>

[Rick Helmke]

If you are developing your own, hang it

up to dry with a small clip or other

weight hanging from the bottom. If it's

already cut put it negative pages. I find

humidity levels seem to affect how

much film wants to curl up to a point.

And Walter, what has analog got to do

with jars ;-)

 

Rick H.

[peter_korzaan]

<p>Well Rick were in the dry southwest, and in this case its processed film that has been uncut, until I had to cut it, ... so I can put it in negative pages and I know after a while it will flatten out, but what about now!<br>

Don't want to set it in the sun, in a negative sleeve to warm it up, and perhaps soften it and then it will flatten ..<br>

The 6x7 120 vrs 35 and 4x5, have very little edge to work with.<br>

Yes, I use cotton gloves. ;-)</p>

[walter_degroot]

<p>before 1960, U developed 120/610 ND A LOT OF 127.<br>

THE THIN CURLY film was a pain the black half moon markes caused by kinks while loading the reel.<br>

127 was a little better but the reel width made in harder.<br>

I will find out again as I have 4 rolls of 127 and expect to start developing some 120.<br>

the real pain is loading film pack film as it is thin and really hard to loas.<br>

of course besides the two unopened packs It is long gone.,<br>

there were psovblems with some 35mm<br>

the agfa films of the 1969;a like agfa isopan reckord<br>

were like a colied spring.. I satick with Kodak as the film tended to lay flat.<br>

but yes 120 can be a pain to handle.<br>

the really old negatives I have seem to be flat..</p>

[nbg90455]

<p>What brand of film are you using?<br>

My TMax100 has virtually no curl if you put a small weight (i.e. clip) at the bottom while drying. However, I have heard stories about curl issues with Efke and some of the other cheap(er) films.</p>

[peter_korzaan]

<p>Fugi Reala 100<br>

When I develop myself, this is not a problem.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Reverse roll in a 3 to 5 inch circle (uncut roll) or hang with weights for several hours. Cut strips-reverse roll the same tightness they want to curl.</p>

[Lou_Meluso]

<p>Peter, right after coming out of the drier, place the film in appropriate poly sleeves and place them in the leaves of a very large book. Lay this flat and place other heavy book or weights on top. Leave to sit for 48-72 hrs. Negs will flatten out nicely which makes for better printing or scanning.</p>

[steve_mareno1]

<p>I think Charles suggestion would work well. I shoot Tri-X and it curls like crazy. I had the enlarger in the bathroom for a while, and I could watch a perfectly flat strip of 120 negs start curling from the humidity of running a tub w/ warm water. I develop myself, so just hanging the whole strip of film to dry w/ a little weight on the bottom works nicely. In an hour or two I have dry, flat film that gets cut into strips, and goes nicely into the sleeves.</p>