Jump to content

F4 or F100?


ann_overland

Recommended Posts

<p>Those listed weights are kind of mis-leading. You can have the F100 without grip, and it weights 785 grams. All you need is 4 AA batteries and film. I never bought the grip for my F100.</p>

<p>With the F4, you must use either the MB-20 or MB-21 to hold some AA batteries. I would compare those wieght against 785 grams for the F100.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

<p>As I said, I never bought the battery pack/grip for my F100, and I never thought that was an issue.</p>

<p>Please keep in mind that I bought my F100 in January, 2000 and used it for a few years along with my F5. My F4 was already dead by then and I don't like its traditional controls anyway. I gradually shifted to digital since I bought my D100 in 2002 and all digital with the D2X in 2005.</p>

<p>Now, if you are accustomed to the way most people shoot digital in these days, I think your bigger concern is that your 36 frames will not last very long inside the F100. I never thought battery usage was excessive for the F100, and since it uses common AA batteries, it is a non issue.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Battery life isn't an issue Anne. Film will probably be unobtainable before you get through too many sets of alkalines in any of Nikon's cameras.</p>

<p>However, let me scotch this myth that the F4 is a tough camera. Heavy and useful as a doorstop it might be, but it's about as tough as eggshells. The top and prism cover are <strong>plastic! </strong><br>

Below is a picture of the result of a minor knock to the top-plate of an F4. The film counter beneath the cracked area became bent, rendering the camera unusable until the top plate was removed and the counter-wheel straightened out. An F2 suffered a similar knock and apart from sporting a bit of a dent, it kept right on working. BTW, the dent on the F2 was easily knocked out and after a respray became near-invisible. That's not the case with the F4 as you can see.</p>

<p>That same F4 also later developed a faulty aperture lever, and is now only usable between full aperture and f/8. I wouldn't have another as a gift, thank you.</p><div>00bCfK-512087584.jpg.6a275475521bd8c4d36383ee0de47355.jpg</div>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>My wife doesn't care much for wide angles, so does not have a 24. She does have a rarely used 20 and a zoom that goes down to 28. We go the same places and shoot the same stuff often, but get very different viewpoints. It's rather fun.</p>

<p>Her F100's do not have the added battery holders, and do quite well with lithium AA cells. She does tend to manual focus, a holdover from her experience with a Minolta Maxxum 7000, but even when using the AV zoom battery life seems quite good. Without the added pack the F100 is a nice compact package considering all that's in it. Much different from the monster F4S. I have no issue with the latter, especially when it's a hundred dollar beater, but you'd best try them both before deciding. </p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<blockquote>

<p>However, let me scotch this myth that the F4 is a tough camera. Heavy and useful as a doorstop it might be, but it's about as tough as eggshells. The top and prism cover are <strong>plastic! </strong></p>

</blockquote>

<p><br />As opposed to the F100 which is all plastic ? Which modern cameras do you have that are NOT made with plastic tops, Joe ? Some people even say that plastic can give rather than dent. The prism on the F4 can be easily swapped out by the user. No tools required. The prism on the F100 can not be removed. </p>

<p> </p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The F100 isn't all plastic. Only the film door is plastic.

 

But anyway. Put lithium batteries in the F100 to keep the weight down, and they'll last several dozen rolls. Less if you're

using VR and fiddling with AF a lot. For a D300 owner it will be a very comfortable camera, and familiar.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>For what it's worth, the F100 top plate (and much of the rest of the camera) is magnesium alloy (the back is plastic). I'm sure both cameras are well built, but neither likes being dropped! Personally I'd take the F100 over any other AF film SLR, with the possible exception of the (still relatively expensive) F6. There are situations where you'd do better with the F4 (e.g. if you need the accessory finders), but for me there are many more situations where the F100 is the better choice, especially when using the AF on anything that actually moves...</p>

<p>I agree that lithium AAs are the way to go with the F100 (but always carry a spare set - you have very little warning of them running down).</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>In reality the F100 is good enough for many pro's ...<br /> The manual says for 20 degres celcius and up, a set of alkaline batteries is rated up to 60 rolls of film. 110 rolls if you use lithium or 60 for the 3V CR battery with the special holder MS-13. If you had the grip this goes to 100 alkaline AA, 140 lithim AA and 70 AA NiHH ... <br /> <br />And like you say earlier, you probably won't be burst firing film ... Handle them both and see which you prefer personally ........</p>

<p>Basing on those numbers if you took an extra set of batteries, you would reach least the capacity of the grip without the bulk and weight unless of course you like the grip.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Actually Ann, it should be you that tell us which camera you buy. As you have seen there are as many recommendation for the F4 as the F100. We can't really help you decide. You have to decide for yourself. Right or wrong, I decided neither. I have the F2AS, F3HP, F5 but no F4 nor F6 or F100. I would have bought an F if I was old enough then.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>You probably get both for very little money now. The F4 is more rugged and versatile. It is heavy, though the lightest of the autofocus pro Fs, except the F6. I considered the F 100 but it seemed a bit too flimsy. I like that you can change prisms and that it does matrix metering with Ai manual lenses. I found the F4's autofocus skitterish and so only use manual lenses on it.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I do not want to steal this thread, but also want to ask somewhat related question. I have an N8008 with the multi function back, lenses, and period speed lights, in like new condition that I shoot TMax 100 in a couple times a year. Earlier post here mentioned the F4 would function the VR system on modern lenses from my D7000. All thoughts appreciated. Thanks Duane</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<blockquote>

<p>The 8008 has multiple AF points. There is an 8008s that also has spot</p>

</blockquote>

<p>No it does not. The N8008 (F801) has exactly one AF point, so does the subsequent N8008S, but you are correct that the N8008S has spot metering while the earlier N8008 does not.</p>

<p>I bought an N8008 back in 1989 and it was my very first AF camera, so I knew it very well. I sold it about 11 years ago.</p>

<p>The first Nikon SLR that has multiple AF points was the F5, with 5 AF points and introduced in 1996. The subsequent F100 uses the same AF module as the F5. Those two are compatible with VR. The F4, N8008/F801, and N90/F90 families are not compatible with VR.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I think I will go with the F100 for now, all things considered (except having tried them out). I like that the newest lenses will be fully functioning with it. It hope it will go well with the FX lenses that I might be buying for a D600 some time in the future.<br>

<br /> You guys have all been so helpful, thanks a million!</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I owned/sold the F6, and it's the lovechild of the F5/F100... and the Cadillac of film bodies.</p>

<p>I owned/sold a couple of F5 bodies. Fantastic but they are beasts. You can't go wrong with this choice unless you think the weight will be an issue. My advice go to a camera store and hold a D2/D3 class camera and you will have a good comparison. Might be the best bang for the money.</p>

<p>I currently own the F100 picked up as a throw away in a lens deal. They are laughably inexpensive and do about 90% of what the other cameras provide. Build quality isn't terrible and at the price you could always add another for backup or for another family member.</p>

<p>I have never held the F4... but if it were me... and I had the cash it would be the F6 (and that would be more for bling/vanity reasons). If you don't want to spend that much the F100 is a logical choice.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Unfortunately, I still remember some of the prices I paid:</p>

<ul>

<li>In 1989, I paid $600 for my N8008.</li>

<li>The next year, in 1990 I added the F4s: $1400</li>

<li>In 1996, Nikon introduced the F5 at $2850. I waited a year and bought one for $2300 at the end of 1997.</li>

<li>In 2000, I bought my F100 for about $1000 as a second body to the F5.</li>

</ul>

<p>I am very glad that I have no interest in the F6. :-)</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I want to say the F6 cost me $1500 used. I was getting into sports and weddings and had no real use for the film body. I really regret selling her. Pretty much the same story with the F5's I own which were going for $600 used at the time.</p>

<p>FWIW... After being away from photography awhile, I'm trying to throw off the shackles of digital and pursue traditional B+W portraits and fine art.</p>

<p>In time, each of my three most used primes will be mounted to F100 bodies.</p>

<p>In the end, they are only light boxes... at least that is what I tell myself. That logic is probably why I've resisted the siren call of the F6.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<blockquote>

<p>In the end, they are only light boxes...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Well said, Rob. From the beginning, my interest is to create great images. Cameras are merely light boxes, but we simply need some light boxes to create those images so that I also need to be familiar with those light boxes and how to get the most out of them. But my interest is not those light boxes per se.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...