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Kodak Tri-X in HC-110


hoshisato

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<p>I am checking out Kodak Tri-X which I never really used before. I want to use it as a replacement for Fuji Neopan 400 which I have used before with good results. Other than that, I get pretty good results with ADOX 25, Fuji Acros and all the Ilford films.</p>

<p>Yesterday I shot a roll of Tri-X at EI 400 and, as it was rather overcast and rainy, I expected the film to come out rather flat but it came out with way too much contrast and hardly any details in the shadows in almost all negatives. I developed in HC-110 dilution E for 6.5 minutes and used two inversion every 30 seconds as agitation which I believe is pretty standard for Tri-X at EI 400. <br /> I used standard metering on my Pentax 645NII and I'm sure that if I had shot Fuji Acros or Ilford film, I would have had a much larger tonal range in the negatives and less contrast. <br /> Is this a film that most people pull to keep the contrast down? Next time I will bring down the development time but will switch to dilution H as I don't like development times less than 6 minutes. Any other suggestions to help me get richer negatives from this film?</p>

<p>Cheers,</p>

<p>Hans</p><div>00ax01-500503684.thumb.jpg.9f5c3ce263aa89216933ee5790ba9a00.jpg</div>

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<p>Might you have diluted the syrup (concentrate) 1:11 to make Dilution E instead of the correct 1:47? (The 1:11 is from the intermediate stock solution, which you don't really want to make, since that stock solution doesn't keep.) That would have left you stronger than Dilution A, which could explain the extremely high-contrast look.<br>

That's way harsher than my Tri-X has ever come out in HC-110 or DD-X at the developer vendor's times.<br>

Also, there has been a European version of HC-110 that is less concentrate. Perhaps you used those dilution ratios (1:14 from syrup) with the stronger American syrup.</p>

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<p>Tri-X and HC-110 is a classic combination, really hard to mess it up. I would not use dilution E, however. Dilution H works best for me as well. I shoot at box speed, 800, or 1600, same developing time...Tri-X is legendary in it's pushability.</p>

<p>I have to say, though, that the shot you linked to works well with harsh contrast. I bet the negative is hard as a tack. You lose some of the range with scanning, so a bit of underdevelopment doesn't hurt.</p>

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<p>I use Dilution H, usually for 10 minutes. That's about right for my contrastier 35mm lenses and my lower contrast medium format camera lenses (Agfa Isolette and Yashica 635). I might vary up to a minute either direction for extremely contrasty sunlit days or overcast skies.</p>

<p>Also, I wouldn't evaluate exposure, development or contrast based on scans. Try making contact prints as a reference point, then decide on future exposure and development based on the contact sheets.</p>

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<p>I am using the US concentrate and I use 500ml of developer in my Paterson Super System 4 Developing Tank for a 120 roll film. As I said, I used dilution E (1+47) which is 500/48 = 10.4ml. I measure in a 10ml syringe. I have used this dilution for the many Fuji Acros rolls I developed so I am sure it was just a bit over 10ml that I measured. I have a mark on my syringe for 10.4ml just so that I can keep it consistent. <br /> I usually use this page to get my dilutions: <a href="http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/">http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</a></p>
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<p>At school we used solution "A" I recall and the time was more like 3 + minutes. Assuming anywhere near decent exposure results were good 30 secs initial agitation and 2x every 30 seconds. Time was dependent on temperature of the solution. The other developer we used was XTOL, which also works pretty well Tri-X and calls for a little more development time than HC 110 A</p>
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