hoshisato Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>I am checking out Kodak Tri-X which I never really used before. I want to use it as a replacement for Fuji Neopan 400 which I have used before with good results. Other than that, I get pretty good results with ADOX 25, Fuji Acros and all the Ilford films.</p> <p>Yesterday I shot a roll of Tri-X at EI 400 and, as it was rather overcast and rainy, I expected the film to come out rather flat but it came out with way too much contrast and hardly any details in the shadows in almost all negatives. I developed in HC-110 dilution E for 6.5 minutes and used two inversion every 30 seconds as agitation which I believe is pretty standard for Tri-X at EI 400. <br /> I used standard metering on my Pentax 645NII and I'm sure that if I had shot Fuji Acros or Ilford film, I would have had a much larger tonal range in the negatives and less contrast. <br /> Is this a film that most people pull to keep the contrast down? Next time I will bring down the development time but will switch to dilution H as I don't like development times less than 6 minutes. Any other suggestions to help me get richer negatives from this film?</p> <p>Cheers,</p> <p>Hans</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig_shearman1 Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>I've always used Tri-X at 400 with D-76 with excellent results. Literally thousands of rolls over the years with no problems whatsoever.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>I use dilution H 11 minutes with 30 seconds initial agitation and then 3 inversions every minute. 20C.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoshisato Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>Larry, is that the dilution and time for Tri-X shot at EI 400?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>Yep I shoot it at 400 box speed all day long like this.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>Might you have diluted the syrup (concentrate) 1:11 to make Dilution E instead of the correct 1:47? (The 1:11 is from the intermediate stock solution, which you don't really want to make, since that stock solution doesn't keep.) That would have left you stronger than Dilution A, which could explain the extremely high-contrast look.<br> That's way harsher than my Tri-X has ever come out in HC-110 or DD-X at the developer vendor's times.<br> Also, there has been a European version of HC-110 that is less concentrate. Perhaps you used those dilution ratios (1:14 from syrup) with the stronger American syrup.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>The European stuff has not been made in years.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter_degroot Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>again use the data on the covington HC-110 page<br> and mix directly as a one shot<br> from the syrup<br> - no stock solution-</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Howard Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>Tri-X and HC-110 is a classic combination, really hard to mess it up. I would not use dilution E, however. Dilution H works best for me as well. I shoot at box speed, 800, or 1600, same developing time...Tri-X is legendary in it's pushability.</p> <p>I have to say, though, that the shot you linked to works well with harsh contrast. I bet the negative is hard as a tack. You lose some of the range with scanning, so a bit of underdevelopment doesn't hurt.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>For once Michael Howard and I agree. :-) That said I do think that you had a dilution problem using E. I think you may find more unofficial dilutions on Flickr also I am working on a list of times and temps for more but it is a work in progress.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>I use Dilution H, usually for 10 minutes. That's about right for my contrastier 35mm lenses and my lower contrast medium format camera lenses (Agfa Isolette and Yashica 635). I might vary up to a minute either direction for extremely contrasty sunlit days or overcast skies.</p> <p>Also, I wouldn't evaluate exposure, development or contrast based on scans. Try making contact prints as a reference point, then decide on future exposure and development based on the contact sheets.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 <p>Amen+ ^ as you need to do it on your own and understand your equipment ... Sorry the Digital age made it so hard for so many people.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoshisato Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 <p>Thanks everybody! You are absolutely right on the subject of judging film on prints instead of scans but unfortunately I don't have a dark room anymore and use a change bag for film development these days.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 <p>So tell us exactly how much syrup, and how much water, you used to mix Dilution E. Everything points at a dilution error. Your results are near-lith.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoshisato Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 <p>I am using the US concentrate and I use 500ml of developer in my Paterson Super System 4 Developing Tank for a 120 roll film. As I said, I used dilution E (1+47) which is 500/48 = 10.4ml. I measure in a 10ml syringe. I have used this dilution for the many Fuji Acros rolls I developed so I am sure it was just a bit over 10ml that I measured. I have a mark on my syringe for 10.4ml just so that I can keep it consistent. <br /> I usually use this page to get my dilutions: <a href="http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/">http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uhooru Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 <p>At school we used solution "A" I recall and the time was more like 3 + minutes. Assuming anywhere near decent exposure results were good 30 secs initial agitation and 2x every 30 seconds. Time was dependent on temperature of the solution. The other developer we used was XTOL, which also works pretty well Tri-X and calls for a little more development time than HC 110 A</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owen_omeara Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 <p>I agree with Craig. I used TX at 400 with D76 for all the years I had a wet darkroom and never had a problem or the desire to try another developer.</p> <p>-O</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_10170 Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 i switched from d76 to hc110 for one shot convenience. i foolwed jason's suggestions here. great stuff. http://www.jasonbrunner.com/hc110.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fotohuis RoVo Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 <p>HC-110 in dilution E should be fine. Just use a small long syringe (5ml or 10ml) to dilute directly from the thick syrup.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoshisato Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 <p>Thanks Robert, that's exactly what I've been doing. I still don't know what happened, I'll have a closer look at the negatives with a magnifying glass to see what is really on them.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 <p>I've always used Tri-X at E.I. 400 and processed for 5' @ 68 F in HC110 dil. B with good results. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dana_bartholomew Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 <p>I have good results for Tri-X at E.I. 320 and processfor 5.5 mins. at 68* in HC-110 B, mixed straight from the syrup.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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