Zeiss Ikonta 521/16 pre-war f3.5 Tessar with Compur-Rapid shutter

[starvy]

<p>My £8 (UKP) Zeiss Ikon Nettar 518/16 with a f6.3 Novar triplet lens and Vario shutter had wetted my appetite for folders so much that I had to get another one! To be honest shooting Astia under bright sunny conditions at around f11 was only going to produce outstanding results despite the dead fungus spores between the second and third element. As per usual I started reading up on 6x6, 6x9 and 6x4.5 Zeiss folders. The 6x9 seems to have film flatness issues for some people and I felt that I really wanted a truly old square negative! It occurred to me that I probably would not be able to afford a Super Ikonta for the moment. The distance focusing had worked out fine for my needs with the Nettar. I have a better grasp of feet and inches than metres! So I concluded upon buying an Ikonta, the middle version of this range without the rangefinder.<br>

Here too I needed to make a decision on what I should be aiming for. So again I started reading up on the Ikonta related forum posts here and checking Ebay listings. It seemed to me that a Tessar lens should be what I ought to aim for. I read about the Prontor and Compur (Rapid and later Synchro) shutters and after much cogitation decided to go for a Ikonta 521/16 with an uncoated f3.5 Tessar (made in Jena indicating pre-war) and Compur-Rapid shutter. The lens is in remarkable condition. All shutter speeds from 1s to 1/500th work although I have done a little bit of shutter exercising with the highest and lower speeds. I bought mine from the online shop of an old camera seller for £30. Ebay price for something in this condition tends to range for £35-£69 based on recent searches. The only slight issue is that the main screw that would open up the folder is missing. However, it can be opened by pressing the other screw close to the viewfinder. <br>

So far I have shot one roll of XP2 and now halfway through a roll of Provia. I know that this lens should provide outstanding images when used with a hood in black and white. In strong sunlight I simply held the camera sideways using the lensdoor as my hood! My uncoated Leitz Elmar f4 from 1937 provides very sharp results when stopped down. The colour seems to lack a little bit of contrast in the Elmar but I think using saturated films like Velvia 50 or Ektar 100 with an uncoated lens should counter that lack of colour somewhat?<br>

For metering in anything other than sunny conditions I have taken my Bessa R or OM4 with me. For the moment I am not looking to spend money on a good light meter so hopefully the above would teach me enough about the conditions in the long run to be able to guess by under all conditions without the need for another camera or meter. Essentially, based on how the first two rolls come out I would like this to be my go anywhere camera. Other than the instant convenience part I really don't care for digital at all any more. The Nettar showed me the limitations of my very capable Bessa R based rangefinder system including some nice Cosina-Voightlander, older Leitz and Russian Zeiss clone lenses as well as the Olympus OM4 and the excellent Zuiko optics. What that triplet lens produced has shown me the way. I like very small but capable cameras and hopefully the Ikonta would be my mainstay for at least a year until I can acquire a Tessar 2.8 Super Ikonta!<br>

What is the filter size of my 3.5 Tessar lens? My measuring with a ruler seem to indicate somewhere around 32mm. Would this be correct. Would a UV or skylight filter, or anything else be useful for colour photography?<br>

Pictures to follow! </p>

 

[starvy]

<p>Picture 1</p><div></div>

[starvy]

<p>picture 2</p><div></div>

[starvy]

<p>Picture 3</p><div></div>

[starvy]

<p>There is slight rust on the black viewfinder so I am thinking about scraping the paint and then repainting it. What sort of paint should I use? The alternative is to use a black permanent marker pen. Please note that I am not interested in resale value as I intend to keep it. So any cosmetic changes would be for my own sense of the aesthetic!</p>

[starvy]

<p>Also, I might like to repaint the bellows. What sort of paint is recommended?</p>

[paul_wheatland]

<p>I have used automotive touch up paint "plastic coat" in gloss black, in a tiny container with brush attached to the cap. Don't brush back and forth, dries really fast. On the matter of the bellows, IMHO DO NOT PAINT under any circumstances. If occasional pinhole, daub "Liquetex" very sparingly with "Q-Tip" and let dry thoroughly before collapsing the bellows.</p>

[k5083]

<p>You picked the right folder, I think. Impressive as the 6x9s are, the 6x6 is a great compromise among film flatness, shots per roll, portability, neg size, etc. And the non-Super model Ikonta with the Tessar also is a great compromise between simplicity/cost and image quality.</p>

<p>I haven't succeeded in acquiring one just like yours yet, but find that Ikontas with the 3.5 or 4.5 Novar triplets do okay. I also prefer the later models with the viewfinders built into the housing as being more precise to frame than the pop-up kind, and less likely to snag in a pocket.</p>

<p>I was using my 6x6 Ikonta this weekend and at one poing caught myself instinctively turning the camera to hold it "vertical" for shots that I intended to crop that way!</p>

<p>The Ikontas with finder housings also have a cold accessory shoe which brings me to the main accessory I recommend for these cameras -- an auto flash. Just get any cheap non-dedicated Vivitar, Sunpak etc. self-contained auto flash with its own sensor, and make sure it comes with the cable. The standard PC flash connector used to this day works on this shutter (I've heard "PC" actually stands for Prontor-Compur!) and with the flash handling the metering for you, you have yourself an automatic medium-format point-and-shoot for low light. Just zone focus and set the aperture to what the flash chart says, and shoot. And it will sync with flash all the way to 1/500!</p>

<p>I use Rustoleum for touch-ups on the Zeiss-Ikon metal frames. Automotive touch-up paint is also a good option since it comes in small containers and is made to go on metal.</p>

 

[robert_marvin]

<p>Assuming this camera takes the same size filters as my c. 1946 Ikonta A 521 [and I'm pretty sure it does] the filters are a kind of 32 mm slip-on, where the filter mount fits into a groove on the lens mount, rather than over the barrel. I bought a yellow filter and lens shade, along with my camera, from the eBay seller "Certo6" and orange and green ones from the UK based eBay seller "vintageandmoderncamerabitsbarryscameras". I can recommend either seller highly. I don't know if all 32mm slip-on filters fit these cameras; the mounts look kind of odd to me. BTW the lens shade fits onto the filter, if you're using one; otherwise it fits directly, like a filter.</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>To me, the useful accessory to put in the accessory shoe is a rangefinder.<br>

That's why I prefer my Kodak Monitor Six-20 to my Zeiss Ikonta C (with Tessar), it has an accessory shoe.</p>

[John Seaman]

<p>A small tin of black enamel paint is best - I have even "borrowed" my wife's black nail polish. Marker pens leave a reddish residue.<br>

I always treat the bellows with ordinary black shoe polish - it is leather after all - working it into the corners using a cotton bud or similar. Let it dry and carefully polish it up.</p>

[rick_drawbridge]

<p>Great piece, <strong>Starvy</strong>; you should have fun, tidying it up. Almost as much fun as shooting it! I find "Modellers Supplies" shops good for a variety of restoration aids; they have tiny tins of enamel in a variety of gloss or matt finishes, and tiny brushes and tools...Lots of interesting things. If the bellows look at all dry or brittle I give them a meagre application of a good leather dressing, usually a beeswax derivative; I get mine from a local saddler but a leather supplier or craft shop may help. When this has penetrated I follow up with the boot polish. The leather dressing, used sparingly, rejuvenates the body coverings on many old cameras. An <em>do</em> use a UV filter; not only does it protect the lens but it does help with colour work. Have fun!</p>

[bobleong]

<p>Starvy:<br>

I have a few Super Ikontas. I found nearly the correct colour of paint at the hobby store. Can't remember the name but something like Plasticote. They come in small bottles, ready to use. This paint is used for plastic models. There should be a selection of; glossy black, flat black, etc.<br>

One of the problems with using 6x9 folders is the vacuum created when opening the folder. The air sucks the film away from the film plane. I usually wind the film so that the number is barely visible in the red window. After I open the camera I then wind the film another mm or so to make the film flat again. I got in the habit of winding the film each time to minimize the double exposure problem, esp on my older Super Ikonta A's which have no exposure interlock<br>

bob</p>

[steve_levine]

<p>These Tessar's are great stopped to F8 or so, and always make an attempt to shade the glass.<br>

Try some slow B&W film. You'll love the results.</p>

[starvy]

<p>I have now checked the lens serial number dating the camera to the middle of 1937. This is as old as my Leitz Elmar 9cm!</p>

[Troll]

<p>All my various Zeiss folders (Ikontas and Maximar) have Tessar lenses, however I've recently begun to have great respect for those with a Novar lens. Some of them are VERY sharp indeed!</p>

[tony_lockerbie]

<p>Those old Tessars are wonderful things. Quite sharp and contrasty when stopped down, but nice and "vintage" when used wide open.</p>

[chuck_foreman1]

Congrats on a great purchase. Good Idea to use the bed as a sun-shade. I have an early post-war Super Ikonta and for the square format it's become my favorite as I have trouble focusing TLRs these days. You certainly put a lot of thought into your future investment. Looking forward to some photographic results!

[JDMvW]

<p>Nice.</p>

<p>Just as a side note, the East German Zeiss continued to make essentially the same cameras as the late pre-war years. Originally these had the original designations. As the cold war heated up, other names were chosen so a pre-war Ikonta C (521/2) became the Ercona (see post at http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00RdUU ).</p>

<p>The lenses are simple, but work beautifully.</p>

<p>There were also Soviet versions of other Ikonta models such as the Moskva folding cameras.</p>

[subbarayan_prasanna]

<p><strong>Starvy Ji</strong>! if I am repainting metal after sanding I would use black enamel. It shines and endures a lot better. If one prefers one could also get Satin finish. If it is only a small touch up I use black nail polish, as it is thinner and dries faster. Nice folder you have there. Congratulations! sp.</p>

[nha_le]

I love this camera. I took many lovely photos with it. I also just got the version with the Novar lens to compare. But the one with Tessar lens is better and harder to find.

Zeiss Ikon Ikonta 521/16