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Shooting a lot of film....


riffeym

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<p>Here is how to super push films Donald Quails gave me the idea with his Super soup developer I went past that.</p>

 

<p >So how do you make Tri-X or any film go to a higher speed and still have shadows even if you have to go to ISO/E.I 12800 with it? Well it is not easy but then again it is not that hard. This is a method that will also still give you shadows and keep the highlights from blowing out.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >You need to mix this up first. The Donald Super Soup.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >6 ounces water<br />24 ml Dektol stock solution<br />8 ml HC-110 syrup (or 32 ml stock solution)<br />2 g ascorbic acid<br />1/2 tsp washing soda (sodium carbonate monohydrate)<br />2 g potassium bromide (optional) not needed unless your film is old<br />Water to make eight ounces.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >First develop it it Diafine for the normal 3+3.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Rinse in water for 2 minutes in water filling and dumping. Next you put it in a bath of Rodinol 1-100 for 30 minutes agitate it for 30 seconds then sit it down. Dump that shit out and then add the Super soup.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Agitate it 5 seconds then every 3-5 minutes give it an inversion or big bump and after another 20-25 minutes dump the shit out use an acid stop and fix as normal.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >That is how you do it.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Your speed is different for every film but this is the baseline.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Larry</p>

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<p>It varies between personal work and professional work. At a wedding, I'll run about 12-15 rolls of color, and about 3-5 rolls of B&W in 35mm....and about 2-3 rolls of B&W in 120. This is about 30 weeks out of the year.</p>

<p>For personal work, I do about 3-5 rolls of B&W a week, all year. All said, maybe 750-800+ rolls a year.</p>

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<p>Ditto what Dave says, Larry......!</p>

<p>Dave, I noticed that you shoot a lot of color film. Being a professional, I assume that you have a Lab do your film. Have you (or anyone here) developed their own color film at home? I remember Mr Vonk mentioning doing C-41.</p>

<p>Mike :D</p>

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<p>C41 is relatively easy in processing. It's all standarised according Kodak process C41. 3:15 minutes development at 37,8C +/- 0,5C.<br>

The rest has more possible deviation in temperature, Bleach, Fix, Wash and then the final rinse with wetting agent - stabilizer (1 minute) and ready for drying.<br>

The easiest way is a Jobo rotary processing: CPA-2 or CPP-2. Here you can process 35mm, roll film (127/120/220) 25XX tank with 2502 reels and sheet film in the 3000 serie drums.<br>

In the same processor you can do E6, paper processing and B&W in rotary, 20-24C. But the best point for Jobo is color film processing.</p>

<p>You can use C41 kits from Fuji, Kodak, Tetenal and Rollei (Digibase C41). In some countries you have some local possibilities. Kit's up from 0,5 ltr. till 5 -10 ltr. for mini-labs.</p>

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Michael, I've been shooting film for years and recently decided enough was enough with sending my film away to get

developed. I decided to start developing my own black and white 35mm and 120. I haven't developed in almost 20

years so I'm a little rusty. Was it hard for you when you started? Can you post some of your black and white from

recent shoots?

 

Thanks

 

Ed

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<p>LOL I know I can. And for the first time in ages the opening pictures are color. Though they are shot on Slide film. :) I have been doing my own B&W for years and I do it in the kitchen sink.</p>

<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/jokerphotography/<br>

<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5372744527_732dffc65c_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="388" /></p>

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<p>Eddy, here are some random examples -<br>

<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5379257673_507b419957_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="471" /></p>

<p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5377874929_b5b34aa89a_z.jpg" alt="" width="449" height="640" /></p>

<p><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5361796442_b9e0a7239b_b.jpg" alt="" width="474" height="700" /></p>

<p>Mike :D</p>

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Wow Mike, what great images! especially the headphones. What type of camera and lens did you use and was there

flash involved? I'm very impressed with the sharpness and quality and also the tone. I can't wait to start developing.

Hopefully I can create such excellent work.

 

Great job!

 

Ed

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<blockquote>

<p><em>What type of camera and lens did you use and was there flash involved?</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>The first 2 pictures were taken with a Canon EOS 650 using a Canon EF 28-80mm f3.5-5.6 zoom lens and no flash. The 3rd picture was taken with a Canon AE-1 Program using a Canon 50mm f1.8 FDn lens and no flash.</p>

<p>The first 2 pictures are on Kodak Tmax 400 film that was pushed to 1600. The 3rd picture is on Kodak Tmax 100 processed normally. The developer for all is Ilford ID-11 stock solution with no dilution.</p>

<p>Mike :D</p>

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<blockquote>

<p ><a name="00Y5ec"></a><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2009166">Michael Riffey</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"></a>, Jan 24, 2011; 03:21 p.m.</p>

</blockquote>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Ditto what Dave says, Larry......!<br>

Dave, I noticed that you shoot a lot of color film. Being a professional, I assume that you have a Lab do your film. Have you (or anyone here) developed their own color film at home? I remember Mr Vonk mentioning doing C-41.<br>

Mike :D</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Michael, I tried doing C41 a number of years ago with a Tetinal kit. I love processing my own B&W, but always viewed C41 a pain....just me. Because I want the clean workflow, I have Richard Photo Lab process and scan all my film for me. If I want a higher rez scan after the fact, I do it myself, or have and Imacon or drum scan done. Pretty rare though as I find the RPL scans to be just fine for all the wedding album needs I have.</p>

 

 

 

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