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Kodak HC-110 and Rollei Retro 400S


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<p>Hi<br>

I order this days Kodak Professional HC-110 and Rollei Retro 400<strong>S</strong> and I didn't find developing times. I try to find some information about this combination, on digitaltruth, filmdev, flickr, photo.net, etc, but I got nothing.<br>

I write to macodirect (from where I order films and developer) and the answer was without any specifications.<br>

If some one try this combination, will be pleased to tell me an advice.<br>

Thank you.<br>

PS: Retro Rolei 400<strong>S</strong> is not the same formula like Retro Rolei 400. </p>

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<p>Mircea, Is there a difference between S and non-S? I develop Rollei Retro 400 the same as digital truth's Agfa APX 400, and it worked fine in numerous developers, including HC-110. I don't know what the S means though, or if it would be different.</p>
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<p>Micheal, like I write before (sorry my english) 400S and 400 is not the same formula.<br>

Retro Rollei 400 is an Agfa Germany forumla, 1:1 Agfa APX 400.<br>

Rollei Retro 400<strong>S</strong> is 1:1 Agfa AviPan400. Agfa Belgium, new production safe for the future. Absolutely new with longer dev. times. I know nothing about this film, AviPan 400. Maybe it is called Agfa ASP 400 X PE1 / PE0, from Afga Belgium...<br>

I wanted to try HC-110 for best results and to see the difference between this two developers. The scope of this developer is that I want to try with HP5+, because with R09 (oneshot) has a little to much grain for me. <br>

Any suggestion for developing 400<strong>S</strong> with HC-110? Or should I stay only with R09 for this film?<br>

Thank you.<br>

Have e great weekend also.</p>

 

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<p>Stephane, this is a Retro Rollei 400s 120 film? I see on your profile that you use 120 format often<br>

Did you try 135 format? I thing developing times are different between 120 and 135.<br>

Thank you for your post.<br>

What do you thing about this combination HC-110 and 400S? If you tried R09, did you like more or less than HC-110? </p>

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<p>Mircea, that picture is 135. I use the same developing time and IE for 120 and 135. <br>

If by R09 you mean Rodinal, I did try it with several films, but not the Rollei 400S. Every time I have tried, I have found it an inferior, outdated developer giving no advantage whatsoever compared to HC-110, D76, XTol or Diafine. I have come to the conclusion that Rodinal fans have a tendency to confound sharp grain and sharp picture. In other words, Rodinal gives sharp grain, but very low acutance.</p>

 

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<p>I like your photo. Very good details in shadows also.<br>

If you don't mind I have a few questions please:<br>

Did you try a combination at IE400 with HC-110? If yes what times did you use?<br>

Why dilution H? To get longer times to keep details in shadows maybe (6' vs 12')? <br>

I am sorry to bothered you, I am just a beginner, also with HC-110.<br>

Thank you.</p>

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<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>I do expose at IE400 sometimes, when the light is flat, there is no need to be able to accomodate a large brightness range and giving a bit less light will give slightly finer grain.</p>

<p>I use Dilution H to get longer, more manageable times. Be careful, Dil. H times are not really twice the Dil. B times. Quite often 150% is a better rule. But I don't get my times by multiplying times published for Dil. B. I do tests and use a densitometer to determine exposure index and developing time. It is cumbersome but I know of no other way.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>"I do tests... It is cumbersome but I know of no other way."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Very good advice. Personal experimenting is often part of what makes b&w photography enjoyable.</p>

<p>Like Stephane I prefer Dilution H for tank and reel development of roll films, for the more manageable times. The very short Dilution B times seem best suited to open tray processing of sheet film or open tank processing with reels, which can be awkward in the dark. So far simply doubling the time for Dil B has worked for me, but I use HC-110 almost exclusively with normally exposed Tri-X.</p>

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  • 3 weeks later...
<p>Ahem. I come back to this thread because I just did a few tests with Retro 80S. HC-110 was a nightmare, Rollei RLS even worse and Diafine not very god either. In the end, I tried Rodinal just because I thought I'd do it before throwing away the remaining films. Wow! Rollei 80S + Rodinal 1:50 gives: less grain than TMX and Acros, very high acutance, excellent mid-tone separation, at the expense of some loss of shadow and highlight separation, but beautiful, beautiful images. No post yet because I only have very boring test images, only meaningful to me. But I am definitely going to try 400S with Rodinal now, contrarily to what I wrote above.</p>
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  • 2 weeks later...

<p>I did not try stand development. But I'd be cautious. It is very very easy to get overdevelopment of 400S and 80S with Rodinal 1:50. I would not expect 1:100 to naturally stop at the right level of contrast<br>

I did try 400S in Rodinal 1:50 with good resultats. As for 80S do not trust the published times, though. For Rodinal 1:50 use 8 minutes at 20°C as a start. Very little agitation too, like once every 1.5 minutes or so. IE 50 and 200.</p>

 

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