Perfect Camera and Lenses

[fast_primes]

<p>My personal limit is a system I could carry comfortably on my shoulder for at least 12 hours. So that would be a DX based system starting with a reasonably light camera with the very good AF--NOT the D40 or D60. Lenses would then be just the following 3:</p>

<ul>

<li>The 35F1.8 DX AF-S of course! This lens alone, puts Nikon ahead of Canon, Sony, etc. </li>

<li>The 18-55 DX VR zoom--essentially a decent light WA in lieu of a compact 14-28mm wide zoom. </li>

<li>The new 85mm F3.5 VR micro. This is the most reluctant choice as I'd very much prefer a F1.4 DX/APC lens in the 70mm to 90mm range instead of a slow macro. Still the VR may make this an adequate "night" lens.</li>

</ul>

<p>That's it!</p>

[alin_daju]

<p>I'd choose a canon :)<br>

Happy debate</p>

[juanita_ramirez]

<p>You said you are just getting started. You can get better glass when you're ready to exploit it.<br /> My suggestion is:</p>

<ul>

<li>D90</li>

</ul>

<ul>

<li>Nikkor 50mm 1.8</li>

<li>Sigma 28-90 3.5-5.6 Zoom</li>

<li>Sigma 70-300 Zoom</li>

</ul>

<p>You can always upgrade later if you want/need better glass.</p>

<p>Also,</p>

<p>Sampson Law,</p>

<p>I'd love to hear your opinion on why you have 4 SB-900s. I'm actually a Canon gal who recently dumped the kit I just listed above. I thought these lenses were plenty versatile for general photography stuff. Served me well all the way through school. (The kit I sold had a D100 and not a D90--I wanted to trade in my Nikon gear for a backup body that used the same lenses as my 5D, and I have a lot more and better Canon glass).</p>

<p>Anyway, I see that you use pocketwizards and you have those 4 SB-900s and I wanted to ask why. I can see having a backup, and then wanting a couple for off-camera flash. My question is this:</p>

<p>Do you really need TTL for your off camera flas units? I use a non-Pocket Wizard branded trigger that doesn't have TTL. I get great results and I actually prefer the constant light over TTL for off-camera-flash--makes adjustments easier. Further, my triggers are cheap, and my flashes are old, so if they walk away I'm not out much. Is there any case to be made for using a TTL off-camera-flash? I have a couple TTL flashes that I use <em>on</em> my camera in combination with off-camera-flash, but for off-camera-flash I rely on non-TTL flashes.</p>

<p>Why the expensive flashes for off-camera-flash? If it's just for more power, I understand.</p>

[dave_l.]

<p>The lightest, simplest "do-it-all" kit for me would be:<br>

D90<br>

18-55 VR<br>

55-200 VR with 4T closeup lens<br>

35 1.8<br>

This set up is cheap by photography standards, very lightweight, and uses one standard/cheap filter size. You get low light capability and flexible focal lengths. The 4T lens will get you almost to 1:1 for macro. <br>

 

<p>If you wanted a dedicated portrait lens that blurs the background more, you could add a 50 1.8 or similar. </p>

You could add any accessories you saw fit (flash, tripod, etc etc). The lightweight lenses also mean you can get away with a lightweight tripod if you need one.

</p>

[RaymondC]

<p>I am actually turning more into film now, cos it slows me down, I only do landscapes. I cannot do events, sports or candid or portraiture. </p>

<p>If I used my DX camera. I would take along a Sigma 10-20mm, Nikon 18-70mm and if I get it 70-200mm f/2.8 VR II. I also use this at home if I was walking about and doing photog which we get a monthly topic at my camera club. For these non special shots, I don't use film. A lot of it is not what I am into, but the purpose of the club is to get you shoot something not in your comfort spot. Ie., topics like mystical, finality, letter S, self portrait, organised etc etc ..</p>

<p>If I shoot film I shoot only primes maybe a zoom for the WA. </p>

<p>DX is not really suited for low light travel when I go overesas. So I don't really use it for that then ..... meaning the fast primes has a 1.5x.</p>

[RaymondC]

<p>I were to go overseas, maybe Sigma 10-20, Nikon 18-70, and a 180mm prime or just skip the 3rd lens.</p>

[RaymondC]

<p>If I could update it and I probably would at home, maybe a Sigma 10-20mm and Nikon 17-55mm and 70-200mm VR II on DX body. If travelling I prob would stick with Sigma 10-20mm and Nikon 18-70mm and not sure about the tele, skip it or just a 180mm or even a older lens I had before 80-200/4-5.6. </p>

<p>For argument sake, if I did have a FX and I did use digital overseas, probably not but hey. Really not sure. I rather not say it. With film I just shoot a few primes. With FX digital I may shoot either or both some kind of portable FF zooms and fast primes. Dunno ...</p>

[billsymmons]

<p>For me it would be the D300, but I use a D700, lenses would be the same though:<br>

17-35mm f2.8 Nikkor<br>

24-70mm f2.8 Nikkor<br>

50mm f1.4G Nikkor<br>

85mm f1.4 Nikkor<br>

150mm f2.8 Macro Sigma<br>

70-300mm VR Nikkor<br>

Also SB 800s X4, 1.4X extender, Canon G11</p>

[juanita_ramirez]

<p>Bill,</p>

<p>Would you care to comment on the four SB-800s? I posted a question above asking why so many flashes.</p>

[billsymmons]

<p>I do some event and wedding work, and in larger halls I find that a light stand in each corner, with the SB 800s fired by the on camera flash gives me freedom to roam the hall and the resulting shots give a very natural lighting effect. Also when I need flash for fast shooting, the flashes can be ganged with velcro and give a much faster recyle.</p>

<p>Bill</p>

[hugh_j.]

<blockquote>

<p>also assume that you are a general type of Photographer doing a little of everything. Kids sports, landscapes, portraits not professional though. Then go and fill out your camera bag. What will it contain</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Pretty much the exact same gear as I use every day as a newspaper photographer. I mainly use one body with a normal prime, which by my definition would be a 28mm on a D90/D300, and that is all I need for most of my assignments that aren't sports. The second body (which I suppose is optional if you aren't professional) has the 70-200/2.8 VR. I consider everything else (superwides, macros, tilt-shifts, superteles) specialty, which can be loaned from the photo department. Throw in a couple of flashes and I'm good to go.</p>

[sampson]

<p>@ Juanita,<br>

Remember this is a dream list. Like Bill, I do some weddings and events, and I find one can never have too much light. Currently I only use two speedlights, on on the hot shoe and one off camera, but I certainly wouldn't mind more off camera. Regarding TTL, I really can't say, I haven't used TTL flash for many years, but Neil van Niekerk seems to be a big supporter of the system.</p>

<p>None of these things (lens or lighting) will ever be bought, but its nice to dream.</p>

<p> </p>

[sd_woods]

<p>Two M6s<br>

28mm<br>

50mm<br>

90mm<br>

Lots of film<br>

Yes I know it's the nikon forum but I felt like being the purist(even though recently I've not been content with my Contax G1, and have for some reason been wanting on a D300 and some assorted lenses.. nevertheless, I know I'd never bother carrying it anywhere, so I'll stick with my little purist kit. Perhaps substitute M9s in.. I don't really know)</p>

[stephen_worth]

<p>I have my dream list!<br>

Nikon 18-200 VR<br>

Tamron 17-50 2.8<br>

Tokina 11-16 2.8<br>

Sigma 30 1.4<br>

Sigma 50 1.4<br>

Tokina 100 macro 2.8<br>

and one extra just for fun- Vivitar 7mm fisheye</p>

[joanne_austen]

<p>

 

 

<p> 28mm on a D90/D300, and that is all I need for most of my assignments that aren't sports. The second body (which I suppose is optional if you aren't professional) has the 70-200/2.8 VR. I consider everything else (superwides, macros, tilt-shifts, superteles) specialty, which can be loaned from the photo department. Throw in a couple of flashes and I'm good to go.</p>

Hi Hugh J

Could you please tell (I am a beginner so please excuse any dumb questions) would the 70-200/2.8 VR lens be for the sports side of things and the 28mm for everything else. Also does the 28mm have a f number. I enjoy taking photos of my kids sports and my dogs racing around (whippets) so I need a fast lens. I have a D90 with a nikon lens 18-105mm. Thanks Jo

 

 

</p>

[ArthurRichardson]

<blockquote>

<p>Why does it have to be DX? (Sigh.)</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Ilkka, quiet! They don't know any better.....</p>

[steve_phillipps]

<p>Nikon 200mm f2 VR is the best lens I have ever used, no question.<br>

I much prefer primes, so I'd also go 50 1.4, 85 1.4, 24 1.4 (check that price tag!) and a 55 2.8 MF macro.<br>

Steve</p>

 

[boris_miljevic]

<p>My pick :)<br>

<strong>Nikon D700 or D300s</strong><br>

Lenses:<br>

<strong>FX: 16-35, 50, 70-200, 105mm</strong><br>

<strong>DX: 12-24, 50, 70-200, 105mm (maybe also 10-20 or 10-24)</strong></p>

<p>If budget is not your problem... 24mm, 28mm, 14-24mm, 24-70mm, 85mm, 300mm,...but let us be real...</p>

<p> </p>

[steve_phillipps]

<p>Also Zeiss 21mm f2.8 - has excellent reviews.<br />Steve</p>

 

[david_poole1]

<p>I shoot a D300s and a F5<br>

Tokina 12-24 F4 DII ( landscapes)<br>

Nikon 50 1.4<br>

Nikon 35-70 2.8<br>

Nikon 105 2.8<br>

Nikon 80-200 2.8<br>

Nikon 400 3.5</p>

 

[janos_kovacs]

<p><strong>Nikon D300</strong></p>

<ol>

<li>Nikon 12-24 f/4 - landscape, architecture</li>

<li>Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 - everything from landscape to action (concert), except portraits.</li>

<li>Nikon 70-200 VR1 f/2.8 - action/sports, concert lowlight, portraits</li>

<li>Nikon 35 mm f/1.8 - indoors lowlight</li>

<li>Nikon 85mm (1.4/1.8) - portraits, concerts (lowlight), action (lowlight), </li>

<li>TC 1.4E-II - extender mainly for the 70-200.</li>

</ol>

<p><em></em>Others:</p>

<ul>

<li>MB-D10 VG </li>

<li>Lights- SB800/900</li>

<li>Filters UV Hoya/ B&W</li>

<li>tripod+ball head.</li>

</ul>

<p>But I have a D3 as well... so I have in addition:</p>

<ul>

<li>nikon 14-24</li>

<li>nikon 24-70</li>

<li>nikon 18-200 (that is for the d300 but you said 6 lenses) :) </li>

<li>nikon 50 f/1.4 (AF-D)</li>

<li>nikon 300 f/4</li>

<li>triggers, umbrellas, softboxes, stands...</li>

</ul>

[mizore]

<p>D300<br>

105mm VR macro for flowers, pen nibs, insects, certain kinds of portraits, and landscape details (where the VR really comes in handy).<br>

80-200 F/2.8 AF-D as the poor woman's 70-200 F/2.8 VR AFS zoom (love the color rendition of this lens). The used AFS versions cost as much as new AF-D.<br>

24-85 F/2.8-4 AF-D as the poor woman's 24-70 AFS VR f/2.8 (improved color rendition over 18-70mm AFS).<br>

400mm f/5.6 manual focus as the poor woman's long telephoto lens. Great for head and shoulders of deer. Takes the same filters as the 24-85mm. Must have sturdy tripod to get best shots. Very susceptible to vibrations. 300mm AFS with teleconverter would be a better alternative, but this was cheaper.</p>

<p>Round out with 50mm f/1.8 AF-D, 105mm f/2.5 gaussian MF, and 24mm 2.8 manual focus. I also have a 70-300 AF-D (bought used) but the word is that the 70-300 AFS VR is superior. I'm keeping this one for days when the 80-200 and the 400mm would be too heavy, but I may replace it with the VR version if that's not appreciably heavier. </p>

<p>If I had the money, I'd have the D700 or the D3s and the big f/2.8 zooms, the 200mm macro, a 600mm bird tele, and one lighter prosumer zoom as a walk about lens. The D300 and the 80-200 weigh about as much as a Hasselblad with 80mm lens. </p>

<p>My other Nikon cameras are an F3 and a F100, so I want things that play nice with at least both the F100 and the digital. Having a pro body (D700, D3#, D300, D200) makes using manual lenses close to painless.</p>

<p> </p>

[imagesbymonroe]

<p>Phil, these make me feel secure since I do events and lots of Street photography.<br>

D300<br>

sigma 10-20mm 4-5.6<br>

Nikon 17-55mm 2.8<br>

Sigma 30mm 1.4<br>

Sigma 50mm 1.4 (becoming my favorite walk around lens)<br>

Nikon 85mm 1.8<br>

Nikon 80-200mmD 2.8 (for obvious beautiful portraits from a distance.)</p>

[Mary Doo]

<p>Good, this helps me to actually write down a checklist for myself. ;) I normally carry the following (backup extra):</p>

<ul>

<li>10-24 or 12-24</li>

<li>24-70</li>

<li>70-200</li>

<li>200-400 with Wimberley Sidekick (if there is wildlife opportunity)</li>

<li>200 micro with mini reflectors and "Plamp" (if there is macro opportunity), </li>

<li>TC 1.4x, 1.7x, 2.0x</li>

</ul>

<p>Accessories:</p>

<ul>

<li>LPlate for camera(s), not forgetting the hex key</li>

<li>Polarizers (multiple brands), Lee ND grads and holder</li>

<li>Bubble level</li>

<li>SB800 or SB900</li>

<li>SC-17, Better Beamer & Wimberley telephoto bracket (if there is wildlife opportunity) </li>

<li>Gitzo GT3530LSV tripod with Markins M20 ballhead and RRS clamp</li>

<li>Bag: Airport International (roller) or Airport Acceleration (backpack)</li>

<li>8GB CF cards in Pixel Pocket Rocket</li>

<li>Extra batteries and lens caps</li>

<li>Microfiber towel-size cloths</li>

<li>Card reader, rechargers, laptop, 2 mini harddrives, small power strip, stored in "Aiport Check In" and "Cable Management" (ThinkTankPhoto products) for non-field needs</li>

</ul>

[tony_defilippo1]

<p>Perfect way to get through a Monday...</p>

<p>Nikon D300 and F5</p>

<p>AF 20/2.8 or 24/2.8 Ai'd<br>

AF 35-70/2.8 or AF 55/2.8 Micro or 50/1.8 Ai<br>

85/2 Ai or 135/3.5 Ai'd<br>

AF 180/2.8</p>

<p>SB-400 w/ Stofen</p>

<p>What I would consider adding:</p>

<p>Superwide DX Zoom 10-20, 11-16, 12-24, 10-24... OR new 16-35/4 VR<br>

AF 105/2.8 VR Micro<br>

AF TC 1.4 or 1.7 for the 180/2.8<br>

AF DX walkaround zoom - 18-70, 16-85 or 18-200 OR 3rd party 2.8 17-50</p>

<p>This is my current and 'wishlist' for my purely personal photography and not specific to a type of assignment. If I was doing event/wedding type photgraphy I'd probably stick to the 'holy trinity' plus a fast prime or two, add in a SB-900.</p>