best for fugifilm acros 120

[annie_chenery]

<p>Hello, My question is I have a roll of fugifilmNeopan 100 Acros I would like to develope, these are the developers I have D76, Tmax, ilfosol 3, whic are new. I also have a bottle of rodinal I have never used this before and the liquid is a light orange colour so I don't know if it is any good and there seems to be stuff floating in it, anything you good people could tell me would be wonderful I also would like to know the time for this if anyone out there knows.....<br />Thank You<br />annie</p>

[leicaglow]

<p>Annie, I like Acros in Rodinal, but all three of the developers you list are just fine for this film. Rodinal is usually light amber anyway. The floaty-stuff? I'd filter it out, but it sounds contaminated with something. Consult the massive development chart at digitaltruth.com to get the developing times for those developers.</p>

[paulh]

<p>Rodinal 1+100 for 18 minutes at 20C, as per the Massive Development Chart will give you really nice results.</p>

<p>Rodinal will last almost as long as the pyramids.... It will turn from a light straw colour to a quite dark, almost stout (beer) colour, and still work.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Fuji Fuji repeat Fuji. ;-)</p>

[User_502260]

<p>My favorite is Fuji Microfine. That's not available everywhere. Undiluted D-76 or Microphen is also fine. With Microfine and Microphen an EI of 100 will be fine. With D-76 you might want to rate the film at 80 to be safe.</p>

[brian_schall]

<p>I second the Rodinal 1+100 @ 18 min, 20C. The only way I develop mine.</p>

[chris_waller]

<p>Rate it at 50 ASA and dev in Rodinal 1/50, 20 C, 8 minutes.</p>

[rustys pics]

<p>D-76 works great, Rodinal 1;50 works great too. Just check the massive dev chart. My rolls of ACROS clock right in at ISO 100. You should really bracket exposures if you're new to this film. Shoot some under and some over exposed.</p>

[annie_chenery]

<p>Thank You all very much I will let you know how it turns out...<br>

annie</p>

[annie_chenery]

<p>Well I did develope the film at 1 to 50 and the film is blank.... I don't know what I did wrong...If light got into the camera would that make the film clear? I thought that it should be black not clear... please help....<br>

thank You<br>

annie</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Any edge markings? if not you used fixer first. or your developer is totaly dead. I doubt the second. No light leaks here .... Light leaks make dark marks.</p>

[annie_chenery]

<p>Well folks, I did another roll of film started everything fresh and the same thing so I think it has to be dead..... Going to try the next film in Ilford ....<br>

annie</p>

[Fotohuis RoVo]

<p>Fuji Acros 100 and Rodinal 1+50 or 1+100 is a perfect combination on iso 50-64. 11:30min 1+50 is for me a tested optimum.<br>

The Rodinal (Agfa) developer can't go wrong, it's an exeption in liquid developers and even when you have crystals on the bottom and the color is dark brown this developer will work. The lifetime of Rodinal is over 10 years.<br>

However Ilfosol is a developer with a short shelf life. Here you often see problems with a blank film.<br>

Important is if you have film marks on the negatives. That means your developer has worked. If not you have done the wrong sequence in development (fix first) and then you have a complete blank film. Or your developer has failed but that's impossible with Rodinal.</p>

 

[larrydressler]

<p>I have used 30 year old Rodinal that I got at an antique store in a glass bottle with a real cork stopper and it worked. And that is also to young for a B&W film to die... even if stored in the trunk of a car.</p>

[mizore]

<p>I suggest checking the camera out throughly and making sure you're loading the film correctly (empty reel on the takeup spool). Sounds like either a loading failure (I've done this once with a Hasselblad back, didn't move the empty spool to the take up position) or a camera failure. Light strike would give you black film. Bad developer would give something else (I use Diafine for Acros because I'm lazy).<br>

Which camera?</p>

[bobmichaels]

<p>Simple test, no camera needed. Unroll about 1/2 of the roll of film by hand in the daylight. This assures you that it is exposed, really exposed. Roll it back up, go dark and load it on the developing reel. Process any way you want to test.<br>

I would bet you have a roll of developed film that is about 1/2 clear (except for frame numbers) and 1/2 very dark. That tells you that it nothing in the processing steps but something having to do with the camera.</p>

[paulh]

<p>What sort of camera are you using? Medium format with interchangeable backs / cassettes, new camera, old camera?</p>

<p>As already suggested, check the edge markings. This way you can potentially eliminate the film and developer as the cause of the problem. Are you sure you haven't mixed up your developer and fixer? Test that the developer works on bit of 35mm film. Check the camera thoroughly without the film (if possible). Does the shutter fire? Did you load the film correctly (esp. medium format)? Did you remove the darkslide? Is the camera winding the film properly?</p>

<p>Before trying any other film, you need to at least eliminate as many potential problems as possible.</p>

[brian_nelson5]

<p>I like the results using Diafine, which in case of mistakes, is better than no results at all. I've been there a few times with some of the others that need temperature control and exact developer times. And, it's practical to take with you on a trip somwhere that you plan to spend some time and want to check on your negatives before you return.<br>

But there are other folks around besides me who like it for what it does well, which is for contrast control. So far, I haven't blown any highlights, so I expose for the shadow areas without too much worry about losing detail in really strongly lit areas in the image. That comes in handy at night in mixed lighting, but it also worked nice shooting into a pond with bright clouds and the sun reflection, while still being able to capture some detail under water. If you do your own enlargements, you can burn in the nearly overexposed areas with a low contrast filter on the enlarger. And isn't it nice to be able to capture, for example, the way the sun looks through a thin cloud, as reflected on the surface of a pond, as well as the detail in the shadows?<br>

It also creates very smooth texture owning to the fine grain, which may be a disadvantage if you prefer to have grain in your images. One other thing is that Acros 100 has little or no reciprocity failure when taking long exposures--like many seconds or minutes--so you can use aperture adjustments to control exposure times the way you normally would in daylight.<br>

So, diafine helps me out in a few ways. Later on, I'll give other developers a try because not everyone uses Diafine and there must be good reasons why.</p>