brian_schall

I would like to have my account deleted please. Thanks

The D80 has a fatal error that shows up as the err code. Mine did it, sent it to a Nikon certified repair center. They replace the motherboard (or some other major board) for $180. Seven months later, after only using it a couple of times, it did it again. It now sits in its box at the back of my closet. Again, this is a fatal problem with the D80. My D5300 works perfectly and is a much better camera.

<p>If you are just using one reel at a time, then there may be a good possibility that the reel will move, especilly if you invert the tank. If you use both reels, the likely diminishes. If you will only be doing one reel at a time, make sure the one with the film is on the bottom.<br> I use a single reel tank and rarely use the clip and never have a problem, even using inversion agitation.</p>

<p>If memory serves me, when I had Contaflexes, the lens bubble (the plastic case the lens came in) came apart and became the lens shade. Ingenious system.</p>

<p>Actually, what you are showing is the FTN, which is different than the earlier FT. The FT had a little more troublesome (i.e. pain in the backside) mounting system to connect the meter. I've had the FT, the FTN and the EL. The one thing in common to all of the Nikkormats is the fantastic sound of the sound of the shutter firing; such a beautiful sound. All of them were built like a brick. And all could take fantastic images in the right hands; and you definitely have the right hands.</p>

<p>What aspect are you going to be printing? Enlarge 6x7 full frame and you get the standard 8x10, 11x14, 16x20. If you are used to printing full frame 35mm, getting 8x12, etc., then 6x4.5 is closer. It's a lot like the difference between 4x5 and 5x7, they look a little different. I shoot a RZ67, replaced my 4x5 and my 6x6 outfits. I still like the aspect of 35mm better for landscapes.</p>

<p>I had a D-80 do the same thing; just stopped working one day. Sent it off for repair, $170 to replace the main control board. Six months later, after sitting in the closet and only used 3 times, it did the same thing again. Found out the D-80 was prone to a fatal error. It now sits in the closet. Maybe the D-90 has the same problem.</p>

<p>I'm pretty sure the 23c has a filter drawer just below the lamp housing, just above the condensers (at least that's what the photos seem to show). I have 2 23c's but they both have color dichro heads. Worse comes to worse, you could always use the under the lens filters.</p>

<p>My long time favorite 6x6 was a Bronica SQa. It was my first medium format camera. It's amazingly light, great lenses and relatively cheap now a days. (You could easily get a nice multi-lens outfit for under $1000) I had the AE prism with the speed grip and it was actually easier to hold than my 35mm SLR. I also had the waist level finder that I used without the speed grip.<br> I have shot various Rolleiflexes; great cameras, especially the Xenator (and Planar) but you're limited to one focal length. Moved over to a Mamiyaflex for the exchangable lenses. But, they are much heavier that the Rollies.<br> Presently shot a Mamiya RZ 67. Decided I needed to simplify my equipment so sold the Bronica and a 4x5 field camera and compromised on the RZ. This is a bear of a camera, big and heavy, but fantastic optics.</p>

<p>Yes, the 40mm S has a fixed lens hood. It does not come off. For years I used my with a Cokin P filter; looped a rubber band around the lens body, the Cokin P would fit just inside the petal hood with the corners on the outside of the hood and loop the rubber band over 2 opposite corners to hold it in place. Worked like a charm and never had a problem with the arrangement.</p>