Considering switchin to Color Negative (C41) film any suggestions.

[bob_bicknell]

<p>Hi<br>

I've been shooting 35mm E6 film (Provia 100F, Velvia 50 etc) for several years now. I scan the slides on a Coolscan IV and print on an Epson 2400. I shoot mostly lanscapes / scenic / nature here in New England.<br>

I'm very happy with the results. Not quite ready for digital SLR . Waiting for the Nikon D4 or D800 and to hit the lottery.<br>

As E6 becomes more costly and processing turnaround longer and longer I'm serouisly considering switching to C41 color negatives.<br>

Processing cost is substantially lower than E6, turnaround pretty quick as C41 is still ubiquitous and I no longer "need " slides as my photo club is all digital. (Well I am too, once I get past image capture).Also figuring that the greater dynamic range of negative film might be interesting.<br>

Anyway are there any suggestions for 100 ASA (ISO to you youngins) C41 color negative fillm?<br>

It is important that the whites be white (not magenta / pink) and slower speed for shooting moving water. I do little to no portrait so skin tones are not an issue.<br>

Considering the new Ektar 100 and Fujicolor Realla. Might consider Kodak Portra VC or the Fuji equivalent but would prefer to stick with 100 ASA. Are there others worth considering?<br>

Thanks very much for any suggestions and comments. (I've also looked at some of the older threads)<br>

Best regards<br>

Bob</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>EKTAR-100</p>

[leo_papandreou1]

I lke PRO 160 S by Fuji and 100 UC by Kodak. Both scan well but not as well as Ektar. I don't like Ektar's palette, though, nor is it as sharp as 160 S or UC 100.

[benny_spinoza]

<p>Your requirements sound almost like a commercial for Ektar-100. Lets see...you want a 100ASA C41 film to replace your E-6, and you don't care much about portraits. You will love the huge dynamic capture range that C-41 offers over E-6. That is one of the main reasons I usually don't shoot E-6. I can shoot in bright sun in high contrast scenes, and I still keep the highlights and shadows. By the way.....Ektar-100 also does a decent job with skin tones....although Portra NC is the best for that.</p>

[leo_papandreou1]

Les -- sharpness, by eye; color, by taste.

[andylynn]

<p>It just so happens that last week I shot flowers downtown as an exercise and to try some films. <a href="http://gallery.mac.com/andy.lynn#100397&bgcolor=black&view=grid">You can see the gallery here</a>. The films were BW400CN, Ektar 100 and Reala 100. I used a Minolta X-700 and an XD-11, and the lenses were an MC Rokkor 50/1.4 and Vivitar Series 1 28-90/2.8 and 70-210/3.5. Scanned on a Minolta Dual III.</p>

<p>The scans aren't the best but you can see that Reala and Ektar both scan very well and are good for this sort of thing, though I think Ektar's got the edge. Reala's colors can get a bit crazy on you. Both films make it very difficult to blow a highlight - e.g., look at the swan boat wings, try getting those details with E-6 or digital without losing the shadows.</p>

[ronald_moravec1]

<p>Latest Portra and Fuji 160 s scan extremely well. These are pro portrait films with much latitude and low color saturation.</p>

<p>For more intense color, Ektar 100.</p>

<p>You are better off adding color saturation in photoshop after scanning as it is much easier to add than subtract</p>

[leo_papandreou1]

Les, you can see for yourself from the crayon boxes on your own site that Ektar is smoother than either 100UC or 160 Pro S. 100 UC in particular is very sharp, sharper than any other C41 film I've tried. I'm not following any particular protocol to judge color. I judge it by how it looks in prints, on my screen, by the different looks I can achieve with it in postprocessing, & etc. 160 S is just my favorite film.

[plasma181]

<p>I've had good luck with Kodak High Definition 400, scanned with a Coolscan LS-2000. I thought this film was no longer made, then I moved to Massachusetts and found it again. </p>

[roger_smith4]

<p>If you want a punchier Fuji film, I'm partial to Fuji 160C. It's still good for skin tones.</p>

[bob_bicknell]

<p>Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions.<br>

I'm going to give B&H a jingle and have then ship me some Ektar 100. See if I can find that Ektar rebate on the Kodak site also..<br>

Going to seem funny going back to the yellow box after all these years. I'm looking forward to the good dynamic range also. (I just scanned some images taken on Gold 100 about 10-12 years ago and the range is pretty nice) . Andrew, thanks for sharing your images. I'm hoping to get into Boston in a couple of weeks. Just have not had the time so far.<br>

This is almost getting exciting, now if I can just improve my composition I should be all set.<br>

btw.. my current images are up on my website at <a href="http://robertbicknellphoto.com">http://robertbicknellphoto.com</a><br>

Again, thanks everyone.<br>

Bob</p>

[patrick_mont]

<p>I personally would not stop shooting slides for all the tea in Chrina! For Color neg I highly reccomend Ektar 100 and the Portra line up--You may like the VC films.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Yes Porta 160VC is a close second..... I though prefer 120 over 35mm these days... because More or less I want an edge past Digital like I had even in the 60's over the 35mm film of those days except Kodachrome.</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>I generally find the limited dynamic range a slides a challenge. With the right scene, projected, they are wonderful. But for scanning, I generally go color negative.<br>

I did just shoot a roll of E100G, but it's because I wanted to check the color response of a new lens, and only slide film can easily let you do that.<br>

Otherwise, I use Portra color films, although I've dabbled some with Ektar 100, which is impressive in an artistic (not realistic) way.<br>

If you're willing to go into Cambridge, you buy almost any film at Calumet, at prices only very slightly higher than B&H, and you help keep refrigerated film available over the counter in the Boston area. (The only other retail film fridge that I know is still running in the area is at Hunt's in Melrose. Zeff punted theirs -- I don't buy film there anymore.)</p>

 

[andylynn]

<p>I like that Calumet store in Cambridge. They have a good film selection (I'm pretty sure they stock everything we've mentioned in this discussion), have people who know about the films and will give you recommendations.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>Bob,</p>

<p>Negative film is a bit of a challenge since you don't have anything to compare the results to besides your recollection. Each type of film behaves slightly different from the others, but all can be scanned successfully with enough practice. You will find settings for basic scenarios which can be reused. It takes some fiddling when you have a new situation (like colors under a canopy of trees). Unfortunately, you can't profile negative film as easily as reversal film. You can use a Color Checker chart in difficult situations where daylight rendering is required.</p>

<p>My recommendation is to keep it simple. Choose two or three emulsions based on speed, grain and availability. It takes about 20 rolls to get comfortable with an emulsion, using it for your particular style and interests. Kodak Ektar 100 is a hot item (to hear people talk), but Kodak has a history of changing emulsions frequently. Fuji is a lot more consistent and is nearly always available in any quantity.</p>

<p>Fuji Reala (100) is good for landscapes and closeups in nature using a tripod, and NPH400 is good for portraits, events and general hand-held and flash use. Kodak Ektar is certainly worth a try. I've used Fuji NPC160 and NPS160, which are also good. There aren't any bad choices along those lines, other than shopping for close-outs and short-dated film at the local pharmacy.</p>

[stp]

<p>I've shot transparencies for years (most recently Fuji Velvia, Astia, and Provia). I, too, wanted to try a color negative film, and ended up trying Ektar 100 and Portra 160 NC. Of the two, I much preferred the Portra. However, I've also discovered that I prefer positives and will be using Velvia 50/100 and Astia, depending on the subject and lighting.</p>

[hclim]

<p>Bob,<br>

You might not have had grain problems with E6 films but grain will be noticeable in C41 films, although I have not tried Ektar 100, supposed to be grain free. I am using Portra 160VC which itself is low grain. I use NeatImage noise removal software to remove grain. The result is softer so there is need for sharpening after grain removal.</p>

 

[b_reagan]

<p>AGFA Ultra 100 is the Velvia 50 of print neg, but unfortunately is hard to find. For absolutely dead-on whites I've used Fuji Pro 400H (optimized for wedding photography) and I'm sure 100 would be good as well. I really like Realla, and have used it at 80 ISO to impart a little extra 'gold' to the golden hour for Fall shooting. Good luck - bernard</p>

[eddy_d]

<p>HeY andrew and bob. Nice work. Andrew. I noticed lines through your pictures on your website. What are they from if I may ask?</p>

[andylynn]

<p>Eddy- I think there was something going on with my scanner, maybe I can clean it. I got it used and very cheap recently but if I need a really good scan there are people to do that for me.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>What scanner is it? I know some ways to fix these things.... out gassing is a bitch with some flatbeds.</p>

[andylynn]

<p>Minolta Dual III. When I got it it had been stored with the door open and was dusty on the inside so I think there may be dust particles getting into important places - I can see problems like a line that's straight across a whole mounted strip (and gone for the next strip).</p>

<p>Is there a good way to get that cleaned out? Compressed air can maybe?</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Yess and no. You have to remove the glass from the top of the bottom plate and clean it.. you can never re gas it but it will make it better. That said it could also ve a dead spot in the light hood. that i have no idea to fix other than replacing the hood. I use mostely Epsons's and Canon quit making them a few years ago..</p>

[mauro_franic]

<p>Les, what are your observations on the relative sharpness of Ektar 100 vs UC?</p>

<p>Leo, regarding the Ektar palete, remember this is a daylight (extreme film) very intense but cooler than Velvia. What light are you using to evaluate the palete?</p>

<p>Ektar 100 10:00am:</p><div></div>