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need advice for UV filters


john_valjean

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<p>Hello 24601 (although that would mean Jean and not John)....</p>

<p>I only use B+W filters. That said, I don't like UV filters; I will use polarizers, ND, Grad ND and so on. But I don't like the extra element in front of my glass unless I need it!</p>

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<p>I've always used a UV filter - the only reason I use it is to protect the lens from scratches, dirt, etc.<br>

I've been using Hoya filters (UV and Circular Polarizer) for years, they make a series with very thin frames, that can help with some very wide angle lenses. </p>

 

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<p>Using hoods instead of filters reduces the risk of scratching the front element, greatly reduces flare, and doesn't degrade image quality in the slightest. I use polarizers in specific shooting conditions, and do use filters in inclement weather. Otherwise, why put cheap glass in front of good glass?</p>

<p>If you're careful with your gear, protective filters are seldom necessary.</p>

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<p>You'll find the topic of filter vs hood a topic of much debate. My personal preference is to not take the risk of damage to the lens, so I use UV filters. While it costs a bit more, multicoated filters are the way to go. I have used B+W and Hoya (and to a lesser extent Heliopan) and recommend B+W. I've found it more difficult to keep the Hoyas streak-free.</p>
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<p>Filtering UV light has no effect with a DSLR which is not sensitive to UV light the way that film was. If you believe you need "protective filters" for your lenses, simply get the highest quality clear glass "filters" you can get - but really, just use a lens cap and a hood.</p>

<p>Dan</p>

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<p>As Chris Jensen says, this is a well-rehearsed debate! I'm in the "use a filter" camp and can honestly claim that most of my lenses have NEVER had thir optics cleaned. Even tho' good filters are quite expensive, I'm still prepared to replace a filter that has got tired from occasional cleaning. But I use "Protect" filters, on the grounds that although UV filters have no additional effect for digital work, a minimalist approach is best. I have made with/without comparisons of IQ and never been able to detect any difference.</p>

<p>There is an interesting argument, discussed several years ago in this forum, that if you want to shift colour balance substantially, for example to work under tungsten lighting, then you retain more dynamic range by using a correcting filter than by correcting WB digitally. The theory sounds convincing, but whether it makes enough difference to matter in practice is questionable.</p>

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<p>I don't know if you need to go to the expense of purchasing a B-W filter. The Hoya filters seem to be as good as, or better than the B-w, particularly the SHMC grade. I have had no trouble with internal reflections with these filters (and I shoot film, therefore the UV protection is much more important).<br>

The place for filters is<br>

<a href="http://www.2filter.com/index.htm">http://www.2filter.com/index.htm</a><br>

although they seem to be in a battle with Hoya at the moment involving a price-fixing agreement that they are being forced to sign. Check it out</p>

 

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<p>My vote is for the Sunpak brand. Less expensive then the Hoya, but quality seems just as good. They are multicoated and thin mount, no problem with vinegetting on wide angle lenses.. I also buy from the Filter Connection, 2filter.com.</p>
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<p>I have always been up in the air about it, so I avoid them unless I need them for weather sealing. The ones I have are usually the ultra-thin B+W filters. I like the ultra-thin because it doesn't accentuate shading with the wide-angle lenses as much. I have also used Hoya, and I've never really noticed a difference in the images.</p>

<p>The way I see it, the hoods work well, the glass can only degrade the image (however slightly), and if the "ulra-thin" glass breaks due to an impact, it's MORE likely to scratch the lens than without a filter. Glass shards touching my font element? No way. Glass is hard enough to scratch glass.</p>

 

<ul>

<li>It may protect the front element, and it may harm the front element. Canceled out.</li>

</ul>

 

<ul>

<li>It keeps me from having to clean the front element so much, but it triples the number of surfaces that must be cleaned. Canceled out.</li>

</ul>

 

<ul>

<li>It may help against blue haze, but it might also reduce contrast by flare and increase shading. Canceled out.</li>

</ul>

 

<ul>

<li>Using one costs upwards of a hundred bucks, with several lenses to cover, and replacing the front element by Canon probably costs about the same as I'll spend on filters. Canceled out.</li>

</ul>

<p>Flip a coin. I decided not to use them.</p>

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<p>I would go with B + W UV. They will cost you around $41.00. I post the company I purchased them from. They have a website you can go to. Takes around 7 days from hong kong, but is the cheapest I seem them for anywhere. This is for a 77mm. I use filters because I dropped a lens in jordan last year if was not for the filter the glass on the lens would have broke and would have cost more than just the filter.</p>
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<p>B+W or Hoya, in both cases beware of the letters that specify the coating quality, avoid the single coats, B+W MRC are 5 coat as are Hoya SHMC, I suggest one of these. Hoya also do a slightly cheaper 3 coat.<br>

FAQ on protective filters <a href="http://www.zen20934.zen.co.uk/photography/LensTests/Flare/Protective_Filter_FAQ.htm">http://www.zen20934.zen.co.uk/photography/LensTests/Flare/Protective_Filter_FAQ.htm</a></p>

 

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<p>John, to answer your question after my post, it would be silly of me to say that I don't worry about scratching my lens! Because I worry about it, I see no need for a protective filter. Especially when that protection may have unintended consequences not only in terms of image quality but also in terms of causing the very thing the filter was meant to protect against: scratching the glass. If I am shooting, I have my lens hood on. Worse case scenario- I drop my camera on something hard like concrete, lens first. With luck, the lens hood will absorb enough of the blow to keep the lens safe. A filter may break and that glass has more of a chance at scratching my lens then the concrete. I believe a filter to be an insurance policy in mind only. For every story I have heard about a lens being saved because of one, I have heard a story where a lens is damaged because of one. </p>

<p>I have heard where some will actually use a step up ring for added protection- and that makes sense to me. The ring may absorb some damage from the fall and give a bit of protection against the front element. But I have never used one.</p>

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<p>Most of the people has no idea, what is the lens hood for. It is not a fashion item at all, as they think.</p>

<p>It is a shade, protecting the lens from a stray light to hit the lens from the side, witch creating lose of contrast.<br>

It is a protection not only from the Sun, but all side light. Sunny or not sunny day.<br>

It is a best protection in a light rain, or snow fall.<br>

It is the best lens protection for physical abuse. <br>

With a so called "protection filters" you can have more harm on the lens, physically and light transmission. More flare, degrading contrast and degrading lens quality. "If possible"!, . . . I never using filters, but I always having the hood on the lens. Even in the dark or twilight, indoor or out door.<br>

Ones, I had seen a person getting up to the buss at Jasper, with the camera on the shoulder, camera started to swing and hit the door-frame, filter in pieces, and we where not able to remove the broken filter, the lens was gone for that trip. The small glass pieces moving around the lens surface, scratched the front element to no good. If the person had a hood on the lens, he/she would be safe, and so is the lens. Unfortunately, even professional photographers saying sometime, (KR) you don't need the hood. And they are totally wrong.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>i'm rather prone to accidents (including small ones like getting fingerprints all over my glass), so i do like to keep uv filters on my lenses. i've found the hoya shmc to work well at a much more reasonable price than B+W ones. they are supposed to be harder to clean, however...</p>
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