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By Bill Blackwell Images · Posted
Leica M11-P, 50mm Asph Summilux Churchill County Museum, Fallon, NV -
Does it appear on all negatives or just the one you posted? If it is the same on all, you should have a technician check your camera. -
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By fabio_sbordone · Posted
Epson R-D1, CZJ Sonnar 1:1,5 f=5cm (1940, T-coated, for Zeiss ikon Contax) -
By William Michael · Posted
Arguably, there are unprecedented volumes of real world experience, technical knowledge and artistic talent supplied willingly by the former and present Members of Photo.net: such feedback is becoming rarer, and I expect when it happens, it is much appreciated by those folk who responded to your request. You're welcome. CONTEXT: Not that many years ago "Photography" as an occupation, was studied as a Trade's Course - City and Guilds, London; East Sydney Technical College, Sydney were two institutions (of many around the world) providing exacting, world class, practical and theory training. Notably, the tools used for these courses were, (typically) 5x4 monorail; 6x6 SLR; 6x6 TLR; and 135 SLR Cameras. (The comment - "Sometimes ... a Toyota is preferable to a BMW" - has relevance) One area of instruction in these Trade Courses was the selection of the 'correct' or 'most suitable' tool for the job. Not dissimilar to a Cabinet Maker or Stone Mason learning which chisel to use - and WHY to use it - and WHAT are the LIMITATIONS of each tool. POSSIBLE MISINTERPRETATION: Your response - "thank you @robert_ante for correcting my revisionist history of the Hasselblad’s origin - not sure how I botched that one. It’s a pity that Victor isn’t here to explain how he managed to freeze the motion of such fast-moving subjects." robert_ante originally wrote - "Hasselblad cameras were designed by Victor Hasselblad for photographing birds in the field, and not studio work. Hasselblad cameras were designed by Victor Hasselblad for photographing birds in the field, and not studio work." "Birds in the field" does not mean "Birds in flight", it appears there could be exactly that, misinterpretation. MY RESPONSE: If you look at the vast majority of Victor's bird images, the birds are indeed "in the field": if you look at Victor's tools, he invariably used a sturdy tripod or was seen bracing the camera on a rock tree branch, trunk or similar steady surface. Shutter release Procedure: There's been excellent comment in this conversation about HOW to release the Shutter, however, what you won't see is WHEN Victor released the Shutter, I expect he, as many were, was trained about TIMING the Shutter Release to be at the point of Minimal Subject Movement. Shutter Release Timing: My experience does not extent to Bird Photography, however, Portrait Photography does. ("Portrait" in the catholic sense, meaning photographing people, not limited to "head and shoulders studio shots"). I expect the Subject Movements of a nest of birds with Mum feeding worms to a chick is not dissimilar to the Subject Movements of two people at a table drinking wine. That is to say, there will be some order of REPETITION to the movements. Practicing OBSERVATION of those movements will, in time, provide some sense of RHYTHM. Once a sense of rhythm is acquired one can ascertain the Point of Minimal Subject Movement. For example, when the wine glass is returned to and hits the table - certainly not when it is being lifted up, in the process of being put down or being put to the mouth. Camera Viewpoint: Choice of the Camera's Point of View, can obviously mitigate Transverse Subject Motion Blur: if the Subject is moving slowly toward the camera, then there will be fewer parts of the body which are moving transverse to the Lens. Additionally if the image is more toward an Environmental Portrait - that is to say the Theme is Subjects - and - the surrounding environs, then typically the distance to the people is far greater than, for example, an Half Shot, or Full Length Shot of one person. Practice: Meaningful and dedicated practice is essential. A CLOSING SUMMARY: My assumption (always shaking ground to make assumptions), is that you want to use your 'blad for personal pleasure and not for other profit or gain. At the moment some of that pleasure is being stifled by the frustration of poor technical results. To overcome this frustration I believe that you need to understand the LIMITS of the tool and the LIMITS of which the Tool's Limits can be overcome by your adaptive procedures. Some limits you cannot overcome - for example, you have 1/500s as your fastest Shutter Speed. That will not be solved by buying another lens, it might be bettered by ensuring the lens is in tip top condition - as too the camera body especially the mirror box assembly. Steady and sturdy Tripod would be useful. Good Shutter release technique - shooting a gun technique is an excellent metaphor. Dampening the effect of the mirror slap. Consider using a Cable Release. Actively selecting the Camera's Viewpoint. Observing and learning the rhythms of movements in humans and animals. Timing the Shutter Release. Majorly - Practice is the key. I think it ill advised to practice rhythm and timing with your 'blad. That's both very costly and absolute inefficient pedagogy. On this point of understanding the precise moment for best Shutter Release, one should use a Digital Camera to mimic your 'blad, that is to do: limit the Shutter Speed to 1/500s (arguably 1/250s would better serve for learning); set the ISO to 200; use s Standard Lens, or set a Zoom Lens to the Standard Focal Length applicable to the camera's Format (i.e. 50mm for a 135 Format Camera, aka "full frame", or 35mm on an APS-C Format Camera); and don't use an Aperture faster than F/2.8. Good luck with your journey. WW Post Script: Pedantically - the technical parameters provided for practice using a 135 or APS-C Format Damera, do not take into account "Equivalence" between the Camera Formats. For the purpose of suggesting how to learn good technique 'Equivalence" has been ignored. This point is mentioned as the reason for not being technically pedantic. If you don't know much about "Equivalence", don't worry, it is of minute concern to getting good Practice, with the parameters I listed to use on a Digital Camera.
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