Unloading unfinished MF film.

Discussion in 'Medium Format' started by jim_gardner|4, Feb 10, 2021.

  1. You don't have to work very hard at it. Pointing the camera randomly is not a burden and who knows what you might get. Better than a blank frame, even if it is a blank frame.
     
  2. Only if they don't charge by printable image.

    Traditionally, slide didn't charge for mounting blank frames, but for (usually negatives), they would charge for each print.

    I think at least once (maybe only once) someone managed to print something
    that wasn't at all an image of anything.
     
  3. Addrressing the OP.
    I presume you just want to remove the film from the camera, and scrap the unexposed part of the film.
    I think on the Hassleblad, you have to remove the back from the camera, then you can wind the take up knob.

    Then to QG
    However, the next question that some will ask is . . .
    How to save the last X frames on the roll to finish it off later?

    Why?
    If it is to switch film from B&W to color or ISO 100 to 400, a back change is how to do it.
    As @rodeo_joe|1 said, that is one of the purposes of the removable backs.

    Now if you were shooting a TLR or a SLR without a removable back, the picture changes. You have to do it the hard way.

    The other thing is, if you wind the film forward, to "save the last x frames." You have to rewind the film in the darkroom (or changing bag) to get the roll of film so that you can load it again. As I recall, the 120 film is taped to the backing at only one end, the front. The film is not designed to load from the back end of the roll. You have to rewind the film, to load from the front.

    With 35mm film, sometimes I used to save part of the roll. 35mm cameras did not have removable backs.
    We would note how many frames were shot.
    Then rather than wind forward, we rewind back into the cartridge, leaving the leader sticking out. So that took care of that issue.
    On the reload, we always sacrificed a couple frames after the number of frames previously shot, because of uncertainty of where the last exposed frame was on the film.

    As for TWO Christmases on the same roll.
    In the old days of film, it was more common than people today think. Back then, many people were FRUGAL That is because many had lived through the depression and then the rationing of WW2. So they did not waste.
    2 shots for XMas, 1 for son's birthday, 1 for daughter's birthday, 2 at the next XMas. And that is only half of a 12x roll.
    When I first started 35mm, I wondered WHY there wasn't a 12x roll, and how I was going to shoot 20 frames, much less 36.
     
  4. You do not have to remove the back. Just wind on using the crank on the back.That crank is only blocked when a freshly loaded film is at frame 1. Then you have to release the camera with back attached to unblock the magazine crank. After that you can use that crank at any time you wish. No camera interlock.

    Yes, another question could be...
    But this question the OP asked is not that next question.
     
  5. Sometimes discussions go on even after the OP has left, and may never come back.

    But all of us are interested in different, and sometimes related, problems of photography.

    So, to me, there is no reason not to ask different questions, somehow related to the original.
    (Completely unrelated should start their own thread, but don't always.)

    Maybe the OP wants to waste the end of black and white film, but not color film?

    In any case, it is interesting to know about how others have done it, and sometimes
    the reasons why. Yes I have taken partial rolls out of 35mm cameras. And some other
    times, though rarely, wasted the last shots on the roll.
     
  6. This whole idea of removing a partial roll is pretty silly. What are you going to do with it? You will have to waste a few frames to reload it and might even introduce issues when doing that as far as I know--I've never done that. Just bite the bullet and either leave the film in the camera or fire off the remaining frames. If the cost of mounting/printing is an issue, maybe you need a different hobby. There are not that many frames on a 120 roll and film isn't all that expensive.
     
  7. What ? £ 8 a roll
     
  8. Yes it more often happens with 35mm and longer rolls.

    Last time for me, I bought an "Action Sampler" from a thrift store, with a partially used roll.
    Not even knowing what film it was, I decided to rewind it and save it.

    Actionsampler Camera

    Turned out to be Tri-X, and I later found a use for the rest of the roll.

    I never did try to use the Action Sampler for anything real, though the price
    wasn't bad for half a roll of Tri-X.

    Other than that there are no rewind knobs, I suspect that you could rewind a roll
    of MF film if it was less than about half way used. If you get too far, the untaped
    end might move. But yes, with only about 12 shots, much less reason to do it.
     
  9. When I was young, I used to by 100 foot rolls of 35mm from Freestyle for $4.95.
    Cheap enough not to worry so much about the cost, as I also
    developed them all myself.

    But color was always more expensive, especially processing.

    So I suspect that I would be more interested for color film.
     

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