TF4 Fixer.

<p>I wish to try PMK Pryo developer. I can source that in a powder form. Postal services don't like shipping liquids and, as I live in Australia, I am choosing the powder form to reduce Postage.<br>

The recommended fixer is TF-4 which is an alkaline fixer. Does anyone know where I can get that in powder form, or some equivalent powder fix.<br>

Cheers<br>

Greg Nixon</p>

<p>I don't know TF-4. Rapid (ammonia based) fixers usually come in liquid form. I believe that they put enough acetic acid in them to get them acidic, though.</p>

<p>If you can get the formula, fixer isn't so hard to make. Not so easy to do it cheaper than the packaged form, though.</p>

<p>http://www.monochromephotography.com/section233148_83765.html</p>

<p>comes up with Google, but I suspect that is also liquid. </p>

<p>Hello everyone. The reason for using a neutral or alkaline fixer is that any form of acid in the fixer will strip off the staining that the "Pyro" developer leaves. Do a forum seach for "Alkaline fixer" and you will see ton's of data for DIY mixing. I use the TF-2 formula (dry chems) when the TF-4 liquid (Photographer Formulary's exclusive liquid formula) is not available. The TF-3 formula will give you rapid fixer. Shoping around the net, you will find the TF-2 mixes up at less then 1/2 the price of any pre-mix on the market, dry or liquid. I have never mixed the TF-3 formula. Bill</p>

<p>At one time, the Formulary sold ammomium thiosulfate in powder form, but it is not listed in their chemical section today. You could always contact them and ask if it is still available.<br>

http://stores.photoformulary.com/stores.photoformulary.com/contact-us/</p>

<p>I use a fixer with PH 6.5, balanced for my C41. I used to use Kodak rapid fixer with hardener. No issues what so ever. As long as you give the film a good long wash, your stain will appear. From my experiences, problems with acid based fixers are just tall tales.</p>

<p>Thanks for all your replies.<br>

I emailed Freestyle photo and they suggested this<br>

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/4086-Arista-Premium-Odorless-Powder-Fixer<br>

I have ordered so I hope it does the job.</p>

<p>Greg, read the MSDS sheet that goes with this "ordorless fixer". I do not see anything in that sheet that declares the fixer neutral or alkaline. I used that very product two years ago (twice) and both films had ALL staining striped off (510-Pyro). The chems for TF-2 are "dirt" cheap on Ebay. Bill</p>

<p>There is sodium metabisulfite and boric acid in the mix. But there is also sodium acetate, which is usually used to buffer or neutralize acetic acid. ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_acetate )</p>

<p>My guess is it has the keeping properties of an acid fixer, but neutral enough not to be. </p>

<p>Ah, right. Maybe I need to rethink this.</p>

<p>I *really* would not get too bent out of shape with this. It is only a very minor concern. The fixer is not going to remove your stain. Just wash it longer to maximize your stain, if you feel the need.</p>

<p>"Wash it longer to maximize the stain ? ?" Since when does "washing" have anything to do with stain density? This might be with Harry Potter film work, but not with any Pyro chemistry I have used.<br>

Again, stay away from any fixer that does not state it is "neutral or alkaline". Bill</p>

<p>I came across when looking thro eBay.<br>

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aussie-Photographers-Formulary-Powder-TS-4-Stop-Bath-for-B-W-Film-Paper-10L-/262476232150?hash=item3d1ccd75d6:g:pCQAAOSwDuJWuti1<br>

Googleing around for data does say that it is an alkaline fixer.<br>

If the Arista fix doesn't work out I'll give that a try.<br>

peter and Bill, I did read that extending the wash times does allow the stain to further form.</p>

 

<p>I think Bill just wanted something to bark at.... :)</p>