gefei Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 <p>Hi everyone, I have tried some search but not much result, I shoot in MF, main film is tmax plus D76 developer for the moment, I really relied on my jobo processor before but after it was broken i have gone back to hand agitation, I try to keep the temperature consistent by using tap water directly luckily London doesn't normally do hot summer it has been always fine with little time compensation, but now approaching winter the water temperature is around 15 degree, although a couple of weeks ago i have done 2 rolls around 17degree with fine result, i am unsure about doing so under 15 degrees, I remember i have read somewhere when the water is too cold the chemical wont really react.<br> Some say colder temperature however give finer grain of course it depends on how cold is colder... if 15degree is really pushing, i may need to do some temperature control for the winter then... <br> your knowledge and experiences are much appreciated!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_sunley Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 <p>Fill up a large jug with water and let it warm up to room temp during the day. BTW, water temp here in winter is around 7C. You don't really need a lot of room temp water to process one film. Read up on what Kodak have to say about min temps. Here:</p> <p>http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j78/j78.pdf</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 <p>Are you using straight or dilute? if dilute use warmer water to mix. if straight a few seconds in a microwave helps... I always strive for 20-21c depending on what I need. I am still using my freezer to reduce it here in Tennessee. below 15 I see problems. Some developers just don't work that cold. D-76 has no listing I can see in that area.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_stockdale2 Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 <p>I have read that in developers with more than one developing agent, such as the metol plus hydroquinone one you're using, at low temperatures one of the developing agents will decrease relative to the other, leading to a change in the character of the process.</p> <p>You need to immerse your tank in a basin of water around the desired temp.</p> <p>I read once that Rodinal actually gives better results at 18degC (after allowing for the longer time of course) than at the more usual range.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 <p>Diafine hates anything under 21C.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirteenthumbs Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 <p>Here in California when the tap temperature is too low I just turn on the hot water side and mix from the tap. Where I'm at now the tap is good enough for developing. Some cities I was in I had to use a tap filter but it was good up to 40C so that has never been a problem. </p> <p>Filling a container and heating it on the stove is another option.</p> <p>What went wrong with your Jobo processor? There is <strong>nothing</strong> complicated about their processor and any good electronic technician and some appliance technicians should be able to fix one including finding substitute parts such as heating element, motor, pump, or board components.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterbcarter Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 <p>I remember reading somewhere on the net of someone stand developing in their fridge. The film was removed after a week. I've really been tempted to try, but I was told really bad things would happen to me in my sleep (wife).</p> <p>One day.....</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 <p>Just put your developer in a stainless steel container (such as a spare stainless steel developing tank), and put that in a bowl of hot water. It will heat up amazingly quickly. Just stir it with a metal thermometer watching the temperature rise.<br> If you're using your D-76 1:1 with water, you could use some hot water as Charles notes. This isn't perfect, there's more dissolved oxygen in hot water, so you may weaken your developer a bit.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leighb Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 <p>The time/temperature chart on the leaflet packed with Rodinal goes from 24°C down to 18°C.</p> <p>I've seen another chart, supposedly from an Agfa data book (which I don't have), that goes from 30°C down to 15°C.</p> <p>I agree that using a water bath with stainless steel tanks is the best way to temper any developer.</p> <p>- Leigh</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gefei Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 <p>Thanks everyone for your comments, I suppose I shall go back to the water bath... don't want to risk with precious films these days...<br> to Charles Monday,<br> It is too late now, I believer it got a short circuit, I was in a bloody awkward situation, chemicals prepared, film loaded - and, i was living at a friend's place temporarily-every time i switched the processor on, the whole flat would shut down - i ended up bin it during the mess of moving out. tried to ebay it again, the price went up 3 times strangely.<br> Anyway, thanks again.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fotohuis RoVo Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 <p>The regular B&W film developing temperature is 20C. For Diafine the minimum is 21C and Rodinal gives at a lower temperature less grain, in fact on 24C it produces a lot extra grain so in this way 18C-20C is more or less the best.<br> But Ultra Fine Grain developers like CG-512/RLS must be developed on 24C. In general +/- 2C can be compensated without trouble.</p> <p>For C41 and E6 it's different. C41 37,8C/100F +/- 0,5C and E6 +/- 0,25C is the regular Kodak prescription.<br> But there are always some exceptions on these general rules.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterbcarter Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 <p>I never use tap water, out of the tap anymore (except for finial, final,final wash). A while back I got two 20 liter jugs with taps on them. One I keep filled with tap water and the other distilled (I have my own distiller). I keep the jugs filled and I am guaranteed the chems and water are exactly the same temp, which was my objective.</p> <p>This should be a relatively cheap way to solve your problem.</p> <p>Another note: Why not get a motor base? My beseler cost me $25. You do still have all your drums?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_4525289 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 <p>In an old book I have seen a recipe for so called Arctic developer it can be used at the temperature slightly above +4oC </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj8281 Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 <p>The coldest that I have developed film was in developer that was 37.9ºf (3.28ºC). My stop bath and fixer were at the same temperature too. While in the fix, I began circulating warmer water around the tank to get it to my wash water temp. Now the reason for this was I was developing a really old roll of film in a highly active developer, HC110 at 10%. The cold temperature helped to stretch out the developing time to something that was manageable, 4 minutes IIRC. Normally I develop at temperatures between 65ºf to 72ºf, usually right at 68ºf.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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