kodak tri-x at 1000 iso

anyone tried and knows good time to process tri-x shot at 1000 iso with d-76.

 

massive dev chart doesn't have the numbers.

 

also, massive dev chart lists the same time: 6.75 for tri-x shot at 400 and 800 with stock solution.

but that was off topic.

 

the question is, which time should i use: 8.5 perhaps?

 

p. s. i can explain why i do need this.

 

my l35 camera doesn't have iso setting over than 1000. it has 640, i believe, then 1000. the next edition of the camera has iso 1600 however it doesn't allow to mount the lens filter. so i prefer this version, and max iso i can shoot with it is 1000. this is why.

I'm going to step on a soap box a little bit and say one small thing, then give my best shot at answering your question:

 

First of all, I like and used the massive dev chart. it's a great resource, especially for obscure film and developer combinations.

 

At the end of the day, though, no one knows their product better than the manufacturers. Both Kodak and Ilford put a lot of time into testing and then publishing datasheets. I consider the datasheet information to be the primary reference, and only deviate from it if I have a good reason to.

 

In addition, we've had discussions on here in the past few weeks over the fact that Tri-X was reformulated in the early 2000s, and while developing times for many developers didn't change, the time for HC-110(B) is dramatically different. The Massive Dev Chart gives the "old" time, and it's easy to get tripped up on that.

 

Data sheets from the big 3(Kodak, Ilford, Fuji) are easy to find. Just google the film type followed by the word "datasheet" and they will generally pop up as the first result. It works for developers too. It also usually works for most discontinued film that was discontinued in the early 2000s or later-generally the datasheets were online when the film was still in production, and they haven't been pulled down.

 

So, with that said, I checked the sheets for both Tri-X and D-76.

 

https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/prod/files/files/products/f4017_TriX.pdf

 

https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/uat/files/wysiwyg/pro/chemistry/j78.pdf

 

The Tri-X data sheet isn't overly useful for your purposes, as it only gives the 2 stop and 3 stop push information. EI 800 is specified as not needing any adjustment, and is given at 6 3/4 minutes at 20ºC in straight D-76. EI 1600 is given at 9 1/2 minutes at 20ºC.

 

For EI 1000, we have to extrapolate a bit, and you will likely need to experiment to find the optimum time-it will likely be somewhere between those two values. A little bit of math from the data sheet says that development times increase linearly(r^2=.99952). Based on that, I'd give 8 1/2 minutes at EI 1000 a shot, but there again you may need to experiment to get your desired results.

thank you so much!

i also came up with 8.5 minutes but i assumed that development times are non linear.

anyone tried and knows good time to process tri-x shot at 1000 iso with d-76.

 

massive dev chart doesn't have the numbers.

 

also, massive dev chart lists the same time: 6.75 for tri-x shot at 400 and 800 with stock solution.

but that was off topic.

 

the question is, which time should i use: 8.5 perhaps?

 

p. s. i can explain why i do need this.

 

my l35 camera doesn't have iso setting over than 1000. it has 640, i believe, then 1000. the next edition of the camera has iso 1600 however it doesn't allow to mount the lens filter. so i prefer this version, and max iso i can shoot with it is 1000. this is why.

 

Kodak recommends the same times for 400 and 800.

 

It seems that they believe it has enough latitude to do that.

 

For slide film, it is often suggested that exposure should be accurate to maybe 1/2 or 1/3 of a stop.

 

For negative films, though, such accurate exposure isn't needed.

Also, for both color and black and white negative films, a little overexposure is usually good.

It is, then, usual to round off push times to whole stops.

 

With manual cameras, I normally round exposure up to the next whole stop.

Most meters allow settings by 1/3 stop, so there should be a setting between 640 and 1000,

even if there is no number there.

 

Since Kodak recommends the same time for 400 and 800, that should also work at 640.

 

For 1000, I would use the 1600 time.

 

You don't say why you want push times.

 

Note that often when you need push processing, you are still stretching the exposure.

Among others, many low-light situations have lamps in positions that fool meters.

 

Unless you have an especially high contrast scene, or one likely to have blown

highlights, loss of shadows is more often a problem, and so extra development

is often better than less.

 

But if you really want to push Tri-X, you might look at Diafine. For many

years, Tri-X at EI 1600 in Diafine was a favorite. (I am not so sure that

new Tri-X works the same way.) Diafine has an unusual ability to

bring up shadows without overdeveloping highlights, similar to stand

development but much faster. In addition, you don't have to worry

about temperature (between 70F and 85F is fine), or time.

 

Also, Diafine lasts close to forever.

When I pushed Tri-X in D-76, the results were always too grainy and contrasty for me. But that was the old Tri-X, not the new 400TX. If you don't like the D-76 results, I suggest using Kodak T-Max developer, which is a pretty good push developer. I wouldn't try pushing T-Max 400 film, though -- you will likely blow out the highlights.

I also like T-Max developer, though the reason I bought it was to go along with a roll of TMax 3200 that I bought.

 

The highest EI values only recommend TMax or Xtol.

 

I have used TMax for other films with good results, including TMax 100 and TMax 400.

 

It is supposed to be that TMax 3200 was discontinued, as one could push TMax 400 up to 3200.

However, TMax 3200 should do better at 3200, and you can push it up to 25000 or so.

Back in the day we got good results push processing Tri X with Accufine or Diafine. Appears they are still available.

Back in the day we got good results push processing Tri X with Accufine or Diafine. Appears they are still available.

 

Diafine is still being produced, but maybe not by the same company.

 

But what I don't know, is appropriate EI values for new Tri-X (400TX).

 

Given the different times for other developers, it could be a very differnent

film, and might not get the same EI boost as old TX.

 

A data sheet is here, but it might be old enough not to include 400TX.

 

https://www.freestylephoto.biz/static/pdf/product_pdf/acufine/acufine.pdf

Another Diafine data sheet is here. This might be even older.

 

https://125px.com/docs/techpubs/acufine/Diafine-data.pdf