Diana camera: how can I fix the light leak from the film counter?

<p>I have a Diana with terrible light leaks on the top center of the image (bottom center of the frame as the film is loaded). I assume it comes from the red exposure counter window. Has anyone figured out how to fix this problem? If I put black tape over the window, I won't know how far to wind the film after each exposure (since it's not a constant number of turns throughout the roll).<br>

Has anyone figured out a solution? Thanks!</p>

<p>I thought the whole point of Dianas and Holgas was to have light leaks.</p>

<p>You put black tape over the window.<br>

You can learn how to count the clicks on the film advance. But nothing stopped me from lifting the tape to check every once in a while. </p>

<p>Paul do not know if this will fix *your* problem, but i use simple red plastic sheets cut to fit and placed over the exposure area. (these colored sheets you can buy almost anywhere; often there's some inserted into school notebooks).<br>

Below, used on my holga, (but diana have same kinda window back).</p><div></div>

@Colin, there are characteristic light leaks, and light leaks that destroy the exposure. I have the second type.

@Rob, has anyone come up with an estimate (like one full rotation for the first 3 exposures, 1 1/2 rotations for the next 3, etc.)?

@Richard, there's a little red window already; does your method cut the light by darkening the window?

<p>All you need to do is stick a piece of black plastic electrical tape over the red window, about an inch long or so. Lift it up from one end when you need to see the frame number, and tape it back down as soon as you can. It will last a while, but you can easily put a new piece of tape on it anytime. Also, don't lift it up to read the frames with bright light (sunlight especially) hitting that window.</p>

<p>I used a Diana and several Holgas, and I never had a light leak. Many of these leaks are actually caused by people not having any experience with handling roll film... they don't keep it tightly wound, or the camera doesn't wind it tightly enough on the take-up spool. To me, these cameras are about achieving something with limited equipment, and about the lens, not about light leaks.</p>

<p>almost every modern film is sensitive to red<br>

despite that manufacturers put red plastic over the window<br>

some cameras used green plastic<br>

some off-brand 120 films have thin backing paper..<br>

and, as said, sometimes the camera does not wind the film tightly.</p>

<p>read the manual and use a lot of black tape.<br>

it seems that they could make a camera that did not leak.</p>

<p>Black tape is the simple solution or if you have a case then just keeping the camera in its case most of the time works well. Remember to keep the red window in as deep shade as possible while winding on.</p>

<p>Having spent a long time in my youth using simple equipment I know I can make good and interesting photos under most conditions. Most people used simple equipment and got to know the limitations and the possibilities. So maybe the attraction of simple equipment has worn off a bit. For me the challenge of alternative equipment I like best is getting good pictures out of old cameras partly to see what difficulties photographers of the past had to cope with and to overcome them.</p>

<p>Or instyead of black tape buy another Diana/ Holga:-)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>You could just shoot orthochromatic film and the red window wouldn't be a problem, but I think the current selection of ortho films might be too slow for the Diana's lens.</p>

<p>All good advice; while Dianas are not really my style, anything that keeps film alive is OK by me. This ad cropped up on our local auctions this morning; you may find it amusing. Or not.<br>

<a href="http://www.trademe.co.nz/electronics-photography/film-cameras/other-formats/auction-469055562.htm">http://www.trademe.co.nz/electronics-photography/film-cameras/other-formats/auction-469055562.htm</a></p>

<p>@ Paul, it would be difficult to diagnois your problem here on the internet, but from my experience most of the problems with light leaks are usually from the camera. In my case, gaffers tape and the red filters worked. In other plastic cameras i've used since 1970, and liitle tape here and there inside the camera did the trick. Loose film can cause leaks BUT not necessarily. To tighten up the film transport i use paper tabs under BOTH spools. Worse case scenario if light seeping in around lens mounting, etc etc etc..... anyway, good luck.</p>

@ richard - paper tabs?

@ richard - paper tabs?

<p>I guess i should have said paper clip-tabs. These are speciality items used for attaching clips to folders,etc. I remove the clip and just use the tab as its strong and durable. But, if you want just use the film box; cut about 2" long, fold and place behind each spool, (below) -then advance film to tighten and attach back.</p><div></div>

I use the black tape method, and I check the number by lifting the tape. But it's important to make sure that the sun isn't behind you or otherwise shining on the window when you look.