arthur_gottschalk

A friend asked me to look at a Mamiya C33 that appears to be inoperative. The winding crank works but it won't cock the shutter, and although I can manually cock the shutter the shutter on the side of the lens the lens release button won't travel far enough to release it. I guess something is jammed, but what?

Unless the price of this camera is VERY cheap I'd forget about it and find a better one. As far asI know, the ELM cameras are not easy to repair these days.

Thanks for this Orsetto! I plan to use it on my 50mm Black Swan "C" lens but haven't had the chance as yet.

After a little research (Freytag) I discovered that this filter appears to be similar to the Rolleisoft and older (uncoated) Duto filters, which utilize concentric rings moulded into them, designed to give a soft, halo-like effect.

I'm wondering. what the 63mm diffusion filter for the Hasselblad 50mm C lens and early SWC looks like compared to the Softars, which I don't really care for. Any experience with these?

Very nice. But is the light shining directly on the subject or is it traveling toward the camera through the backdrop? That would be my situation.

Thanks all, very helpful.

I print in my darkroom and use a third-party lab, Kodak Tri-X.

How should I go about metering a strongly back-lit translucent subject for black and white film? Using my RB67, I need to include the brightly lit but out of focus background as well as more dimly lit glass objets in the foreground. Thanks for your help.

I think something like that must have happened the last time I took the lens off the camera. I would not attempt a DIY fix, even though I'm "stuck in the field" here in northern New Mexico.

I don't think the CDS and PD Finder work the same way.

Yes, thanks for that.

Tripped and re-cocked the shutter a few times and now AOK.

I've recently obtained a PD metered chimney finder for my RB67 Pro SD, but can't figure out how to set the maximum aperture for the lens in use. Oddly enough, I can't find instructions for this anywhere on the net. If anyone has a copy of these instructions I would love to have a look. .

I see on the internet that this is not an uncommon problem, but there are no definitive answers. I'll try releasing and re-cocking the shutter a few times.

I tried to mount my 500mm Hasselblad CF lens to my 503CX camera today and much to my surprise it would not register or click into place.. Yes, both the camera and the lens were correctly cocked and the red marks were aligned,. The lens would rotate but would not mount. I tried other lenses on the camera and all mounted correctly. I also tried the 500mm with another camera and no go, although it also worked perfectly with other lenses. Can't imagine what the problem could be. Please help.

I've just been printing some pictures made with my M7II several years ago. Amazingly sharp, all handheld.

I have both the 6&7, both bought new and used extensively without a problem. If you do buy another 6 and it works well, go easy on the advance lever.

I have a Maxwell Brightscreen in mine. Big difference. Much better.

My apologies, I misunderstood. I thought you were speaking more generally. And for sure the SWC is vastly superior to the 500/40mm set-up in this case. I find that in tight situations it's even possible to shoot with the SWC without raising it to your eyes.

I think the "clanking jarring 500 body" and "big mirror slap" is more theoretical than actual, certainly at everything but maybe the slowest shutter speeds. You hear lots of talk about it but I have yet to see it demonstrated or noticed it in my pictures. If you are talking hand-held, operator induced vibration would likely cause a much larger problem, and tripod use with the mirror-up function is easy and will eliminate that possibility. But yes, all that's redundant with the SWC, one of the best cameras ever designed.

OK, better. But not the Graphics!

I'm wondering which would be the best 6x9 folding camera, the Zeiss Ikon or the Voigtlander?. One of my concerns is sharpness from distortion caused by the front standard i not held parallel to the film plane The other concerns include ease and accuracy of focus and lens choice. Thanks

After further examination, it looks like the back is sprung to the point where there's a light leak. Black tape applied at the moment but wondering if it's worth a better fix. I like the pictures...

My Pentax Auto 110 has a light leak or flare in the upper right-center of the image. Any idea what this could be? Anyone able to repair it?