Interesting and Mysterious blobs on my first film processing try

<p>Hi all<br>

I was very excited to have a go at home processing 120 B&W Ilford HP5plus 400. <br>

I used a Paterson tank, Adox Adonal developer (as recommended by the shop I purchased from) and Ilford Rapid Fixer. No stop bath.<br>

For timing I used the Massive Dev app on my phone. The results were interetsing. <br>

The first batch produced small blue blobs and blue edging randomly on some of the negs.<br>

The second batch produced a couple of large pink blobs on the negs.<br>

Obviously something is very wrong with my technique but being new I have no idea where the problem is. <br>

Even with these issues I am delighted with my first attempts and will be doing lots more, hopefully without the mysterious blobs.<br>

The camera I used was a 60 year old Ensign Selfix folding pocket camera. I had focusing issues with it but will be switching to a TLR for my next attempt.<br>

Thankful for any advise.<br>

<img src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/lee_jay_dee/albums/72157676238072410" alt="" /></p>

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<p>I don't have any great expertise, but my guess is that the chemicals did not get to the film in the pink areas. If mis-loaded, the film in one course of the reel may have been in contact with the film in the next or previous course. When I first attempted to load film tank reels with 120 roll film many years ago, I had a similar experience. Dave</p>

<p>Yes, the pink looks like film that didn't get any developer or fixed. (You should use a water rinse between developer and fixer, such that the fixer will last longer, but otherwise it is fine not to use stop bath.)</p>

<p>You can put them back in fixer, and those will turn clear. </p>

<p>I had this happen not so long ago, loading 127 film into a Paterson tank. It was just a little warm, and just a little humidity (sweat) will make the film sticky, such that it doesn't slide easily into the reel. Also, the reel has to start out really dry. If you are doing more than one roll, be sure it is really dry between rolls. </p>

<p>If those negatives aren't too valuable, use that as practice film for loading the tank, first in light, and then in the dark. Usually, you will know that it didn't go in smooth, and can take it out and try again. But at some point you give up, and this can still happen.</p>

<p>As the others have said, yes, the film was touching and the chemicals didn't reach the parts where there's no image. FWIW, I've never been able to load 120 on plastic reels. I use Hewes stainless reels in a stainless tank instead. There was a learning curve at the start, but I've found it to be easier. For 35mm, I still prefer the plastic ratcheting reels over the stainless. </p>

<p>I have observed many folks learning how to process black and white films, and the hardest part is loading the film reels. It's one of those manual dexterity things that takes a certain "knack." I don't like the ratchet gadgets. For one thing, they need to be scrupulously dry, so there's an issue if you're processing batch after batch. I settled on Hewes reels for both 120 and 35mm. Expensive, but now cheap on ebay. Sacrifice a few rolls to practice, and load the reels in the daylight where you can see what's going on. That will give you the proper feel for how to do it. Load in daylight until you get it right, then load in daylight with your eyes closed (you can open them if you get stuck), and when you can do it smoothly, you'll be ready for the darkroom. I am continually amazed that people think photography is a skill that requires no practice. I suggest stainless steel tanks, because they are easy to clean and are temperature conductive. Mix your chemicals, and have a water bath (a plastic dishpan works well) for your tank and chemistry. Let the whole thing sit for an hour and all the temps will be stabilized. Use the same thermometer all the time. Use a consistent agitation technique. Keep records of your ISO, time and temperature. Old cameras are great, but can have sticky shutters that play havoc with your exposures. Have it checked electronically. I could go on and on, but there are plenty of books with all the info. Enjoy!<br>

And by the way, those defects are classic "film not properly loaded on the reel" results.</p>

<p>While it's true that plastic reels must be completely dry, there are some ones that make loading 120 very easy. And while I find loading 120 not a problem on SS reels, I sometimes have trouble with 135. I know it'll take more practice but the film is just so long...<br>

These reels from Freestyle http://www.freestylephoto.biz/55043-Arista-Premium-Plastic-Developing-Reel have this "tongue" where the film goes in. I've seen ones from Samigon look like this as well, as well as another Paterson knock-off that I've gotten. My point is that if you can get the reels with this leading "tongue," then 120 will almost "fall" onto the reel as you go. I've never had a problem loading 120 properly on these types of reels. <br>

Just FWIW.</p>

<p>I've always just cut the tongue off, cut a small 45 degree angle on the top and bottom of the film where I cut the tongue (for easier loading), and never had a problem. The best answer though, IMHO, is to take a practice roll and practice practice practice loading it so you can see and feel when there are problems - which you can then correct.</p>

<p>Thank you all so much for your help and advise. I practised for days spooling the film but still managed to mess it up, so back to more practising for me! <br>

My concern is that I couldn't tell that the film hadn't loaded correctly (and I was so proud to get it on the first try). LOL <br>

I've ordered a Hewes reel and a ss tank for 120 so hopefully I'll do better next time. <br>

I still managed to get some good images though, between blobs, so am not too discouraged!</p>

 

<p>I prefer stainless steel reels but it does take a little practice. When you load this type reel you can tell if it is loaded incorrectly immediately if it does not settle in the grooves properly--just go back and unwind and start again. When winding on, I nudge the film back and forth to see if it slides in the groove easily. Also you can feel with your fingers if the film portrudes too much through the reel. For 35mm, I never rewind the tongue entirely back into the cassette until I cut the film squarely off--this makes a world of difference when first loading the reel. For 120 it is a little more difficult. In the dark I learned to cut off the corners about 1/8 inch on the taped end( I leave the tape on, it does not hurt) ever so slightly so I can center the film better on the holding spring. Its all done with feel.<br /> I know you hate to waste film, but practicing first in daylight and after getting the feel, close your eyes--practice more. Believe me it will come natural to you.</p>

<p>I use a Paterson tank as well, and they're fine. Except when you want to develop 120 film - Paterson reels are a pain to load with 120. I use AP reels for 120 now, same idea as the multi-width Patersons and no more expensive but with wide lands at the film inlet so it is very much easier to load the wider and more floppy film.</p>

<p>With plastic reels, make absolutely sure they're completely dry before using them. A couple of minutes with a hairdryer will see to that. The slightest moisture will cause the film to jam and kink. I'm sure we've all been there...</p>

<p>Before loading a reel for the first time - Paterson, Nikkor, or other - ALWAYS practice in broad daylight with an throw-away roll until you are sure you have it right.<br>

It does take a certain amount of feel. Trying to do it in the dark your first time without practice is an invitation to disaster. </p>

 

<p>Some how you managed to not get developer on that part of the film although I can not see just how this could have happened. My guess is that you got a kink in the film as you loaded it on the real. <br>

Can not say I have ever had blue blobs like that with any B&W film. <br>

Bad idea not to use stop bath, this can cause staining and a few other problems and may have something to do with the blue blobs. <br>

Do not be to concerned with problems like this, even after 40 years I still make some mistakes and waste a bit of film, it is certainly not something that you learn over night or with just the first roll of film. </p>

 

<p>Well Mark, it is so like me to fail in unique and interesting ways. <br>

Not that I'm discouraged mind you, but inspired to see what other unique and interesting fails I can produce during my learning period. :)<br>

I think next time I will use 35mm with the Paterson set up and see about the stop bath thing. Meanwhile I have ordered more 120 film to sacrifice while I practice some more. <br>

Thank you again everyone for the advice and encouragement. <br>

I am rather interested though as to why some of my pics came out b&w while others were kinda beige and others pink.</p>

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<p>and this............... (sorry but I don't yet know how to post multiple images)</p>

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<p>well, color from scanning can be a lot of things, including the film base, for instance. That's different than the blobs that came from the film touching. </p>

<p>As mentioned, film touching during processing.<br>

One way to assure it can not happen again is to get PVC pipes. Seal the bottom and have a fit on cap at the top. Stand on end making sure they are longer than the film you will process - fill with chemistry and 'dip and dunk' your film from pre-soak, developer, stop, fix and rinse tubes.<br>

Easy to do and you never deal with reels again. <br>

You need the darkroom space for it but the system is simple to assemble and use. </p>

<p>Paterson reels have been used successfully for decades, so no need to buy new stuff straight away...<br>

<br />There are few tips to make it easier, as mentioned they need to be dry. If you do dry them with a hair dryer, let them cool before attempting loading a film. Humidity is also problematic, especially if you are using a dark bag to load in. If using a dark bag, put a box in and stand it on it's side to keep the 'roof' of the bag up out of the way. If you do have trouble, try turning the film around and start from the other end after removing the backing paper and folding the tape that held it on over onto the film (gives it a little bit more strength).</p>

When loading 120/220 film onto Paterson reels I would cut a bit of cardboard off of the film box and place it across the reel just before the loading ears. Then I could slide the film across that and into the reel without it constantly trying to curl in between the reel.