Pulling Color Slides to reduce "grain"

<p>Hello</p>

<p>I am accustomed to shooting Tri-X 400 at "ASA 100", and then "pull processing". I basically underdeveloped it by 2-stops and I get less contrast and SMALLE GRAIN.</p>

<p>Recently, I purchased some of this film:</p>

<p><a href="http://filmphotographyproject.com/store/35mm-chrome-fpp-retrochrome-high-speed-320-1-roll">35mm Chrome - FPP RetroChrome High Speed 320 (1 Roll) | Film Photography Project</a></p>

<p>Its an old color slide film that has an interesting look to it.</p>

<p>Unfortunately, it is EXTREMELY grainy. </p>

<p>I was wondering, if I shoot it at 200 ASA and then pull-process it by 1-STOP, will the grain be reduced?</p>

<p>Also, since it is a "COLOR SLIDE" film, will the color shift? (will it get "warmer" or "cooler"?)</p>

<p>Thanks everyone in advance, I can really use some help with this issue.</p>

<p>Carlos</p>

<p> </p>

<p>In what stage do you want to pull it? Developer #1 or developer#2? It is some old Military Ektachrome from what I gather talking to the folks who rolled it up and it is of unknown age. Color's will shift but since it is an unpredictable film due to what it really is and the age along with how it was stored. We really can't say but in my experience Ektachrome went off to the warmer side with a push and bluer with a pull. Do you have any examples of how the color and the grain are with what you have? Can you tell us how you are scanning it and also have you tried projecting it?</p>

<p> Thanks if you come back and answer my questions. Remember that the more we understand the better we can guess. :-)</p>

<p>Larry</p>

<p>I won't process it myself. ill send out to be processed at a PRO-lab, and ill ask them to pull-process it by (-1 stop)<br>

Ill probably have the same lab scan it.</p>

<p>However, I have not shot the film yet and only have two rolls. That is why I wanted to get as much info as possible.</p>

<p>Actually Larry, I'm so glad to hear you are in communication with the folks that sell "RETROCHROME 320". You are exactly the resource i am looking for.</p>

<p>Can you ask them the questions you posed me?</p>

<p>Also, can you ask them if they think the film can remain stable in mu fridge for a while?</p>

<p>Lastly, can they tell us if they are experiencing variations with different batches, or are most rolls of film they are selling producing consistent results?</p>

<p>Thanks again,</p>

<p>Carlos</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I was told that you should try to shoot it at 160 and normal process. But never try to pull it. Shoot it at full and 1/2 with the first roll and decide. </p>

<p>First, color film images don't have grain, they have dye clouds. The look is much different from grain.</p>

<p>In negative films, the image you see is made of the larger grains. Normal contrast films have a range of grain sizes, with larger grains being more sensitive and smaller less sensitive. That is needed to make a grey scale image.</p>

<p>With reversal films, the image is the grains that were not exposed in the camera, and so are the smaller grains. Another is that they don't pull very well. </p>

<p>Most slide films do well with a slight, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 stop, underexposure, and normal development. You might try that.</p>

Do you believe all that crap story? Military surplus, found buried underground, blablabla.

By the looks of it that is Agfa all day long. Buy a roll of Rollei (Maco) CR 200 and compare.

I'm curious what the imprint on the sides of the film says.

<p>Whatever it is, this stuff is junk based on their sample pictures. Higher speed transparency film is grainy by its nature, especially older emulsions. If you want fine grain images throw this stuff away and buy some fresh rolls of Fuji from a reputable camera store.</p>