What is best nikon Ai/Ai-s 28mm or 35mm lens on budget?

<p>Hello, I am started with photography and bought my first camera ever, Nikon FE with Tokina AT-X f2.8 60-120mm lens and I am looking for some 28mm (or 35mm) lens because Tokina is too big and heavy (630g) for day to day use (also focusing is really slow and have really small field of view). I think that Nikon 28mm (Ai/Ai-S) would be best for me but I cannot decide between versions (Ai and Ai-S) and f-stops (f2.8 and f3.5). I red Ken Rockwell reviews and some other reviews and everybody praises 28mm Ai-S f2.8 but it is more expensive than 28mm Ai-S f3.5 (also Ai versions are cheaper but even after differences between Ai and Ai-S I don't know if Ai-S is worth so much more). I am on budget so I plan to buy only one lens and use daily. I choose 28mm because I shoot on streets and also family/friends and with current Tokina lens I have to move really far away to focus and fill photo.</p>

The 28/2.8 AIS is spectacular. It's a different optical formula from the AI and the 3.5.

<p>Local shop does developing of my film and I scan on Canon 9000F mark II (because it is way cheaper). Will I be able to notice difference between 3.5 and 2.8?</p>

<p>The Canon 9000F does a good serviceable job for things like posting on the web (one comparison at http://www.photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/00b9l6 ).<br>

A dedicated slide/negative scanner is better, but definitely more expensive.<br>

But, no, you probably won't see any difference between 3.5 and 2.8, particularly if you are scanning color negative film.</p>

<p>Yes, I am scanning Color Negative film (Ektar 100 and Portra 400) and sometime B&W (Kodak T-Max 400). Dedicated film scanners are just way of my price range. Local shop have NORITSU QSS -37HD but they are too expensive (best scans at 4000x6000 cost 20 euro for one roll of film).</p>

<p>When you are advanced enough to control the development and scanning processes, you might see a slight difference between the 2.8 and 3.5, most notably in the out of focus areas (commonly, but incorrectly, called bokeh). I have used the 2.8 AiS for several years and find it to be a terrific lens. You talk about the Tokina being too slow to focus - I assume you mean too much rotation to focus, most street shooters would basically zone focus and then move in with their feet, so I'm not sure that is really an issue rather than your improving your technique. Anyway - if you're on a strict budget go with the 3.5; if you can stretch it a little go with the 2.8 Ai-S and you won't have any buyer's regret later on.</p>

<p>I really like the 28mm f/3.5. I have a Type-K version, which has been Ai'd. It is plenty sharp, but I really like the character of this lens. Nice transition from focal plane. Pretty subjective I guess. The lens has some vignetting, which I tend to like. Construction is rock solid and operation is a joy. You can find the f/3.5 version at very low cost on the used market.</p>

<p>Most lenses stopped down to f8 give good results, so in a budget I`d not hesitate to buy the f3.5 lens.<br /> If you were shooting wide open or close-up, and with high expectations, you -maybe- should buy the 2.8 AiS version; but for general photography, well, a bit of... could it be called softness? (if any) is not that important. Also, smaller aperture lenses use to be more flare resistant, and smaller in size&weight.<br /> Personally, I don`t find the AiS to be that impressive, is a good lens but I bet not that far from other 28mm versions. I keep mine unused in the closet for since the digital era.<br /> Don`t know how much is a 24/2.8, I think it could be another interesting choice; in fact I have used this lens (two versions) way more than 28 and 35 mm lenses.</p>

<p>Look for the AI lenses if you are on a budget. Cheaper and better for manual focusing too. On most lenses the optical formula are the same but not on all. </p>

<p>AI or AI-s has with the aperture linkage to do. It makes AI-s more suitable to use in program mode and shutter priority. Most manual focus cameras don't have those modes so money could be saved by picking the AI version.<br>

<br /> You can check serial numbers to see exactly what version something is here: http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html#28<br /> Check other data like optical design here: http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/lenses.html#28</p>

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<p>Site <a href="http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html#28" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html#28</a> is great. I found it couple days ago and thanks SN numbers I can determine any lens on ebay. :) <br>

I will buy 28mm f/3.5 Ai. Thanks everybody for advice.</p>

I used to have a 5400 PPI Minolta scanner and with that and Ektar 100 I could see the differences between these lenses.

There's also a difference to be found on high res digital. Using a flatbed scanner, I really doubt you'll see a difference.

 

Have you considered the Series E lens? Of the lower cost options it has the newest design and best close focus.

<p>I think you will like the 28/3.5 AI. I have two of these as well as three older 28/3.5 Nikkors. The AI is different from the earlier 28/3.5 models and has improved corner performance. I do not have any of the 28/2.8 Nikkors. The AIS model has CRC (Close Range Correction or "floating elements) and is supposed to provide better performance at its closest focusing distance. I don't know how much better it would be than the 28/3.5 AI or AIS at longer distances. If I need to get close I would rather use a 55/2.8 AIS. None of the 28s will be as good as the 55/2.8 in the close range. </p>

<p>I think a 28/3.5AIS is fine. If one were to spend more money, another great choice is any 28/f2 Nikkor (some need AI conversion) for about the same money as the 2.8 AIS version.</p>

<p>The earlier than AIS 28/2.8 versions are not as good, keep that in mind. Often they are (mis)represented as AIS lenses in order to be sold for more money.</p>

<p>Another very good lens is the 35/f2, IMO. I have several AI converted O-C versions, all perform very well from 2.8 on. The 35/2.8AIS I had was not very good.</p>

<p>There is a good recent test/review of an older 28/3.5 on Photographylife. The test indicates that the lens has a good bit of field curvature, which impacts the test chart but can be dealt with in real life with stopping down or awareness of the curved plane of focus.</p>

<p>For my F3T, I settled on AiS 28mm f2. It's highly rated, small, and takes 52mm filters. That last is a key thing for me. My other AiS lenses are 50mm f1.2 and 105mm f2.5. They all take 52mm filters. I mostly shoot b&w and filters are an important factor for me. </p>

<p>When I bought my brand new Nikon FM (just after the FE was available), I bought it with the AI 35/2.0. That was the only lens I had for it for some time.</p>

<p>It is a nice lens for indoors, where you can't back up as far as you might want to, and also outdoors for scenic photography. (Consider national parks with large features.)</p>

<p>Some years later, I bought a used AI 24/2.8 for it. I didn't use it all that often, but it is a fun lens sometimes.</p>

<p>Even later, I bought the AI 35-70/3.? zoom, which I used much of the time for family pictures. </p>

<p>Used AI lenses are available for very low prices at places like shopgoodwill.com, especially if you find them at a local store, and avoid shipping costs. I bought an AI 80-200 for about $10 from them last year. (That is the slide zoom, which I never had before.)</p>

<p>Many of the extreme aperture lenses are not as good at smaller aperture, and are also a lot more expensive. Still, I think I would go for the 2.8 over the 3.5, but you don't need the 2.0 or 1.4 if it is a lot more expensive.</p>

<p>The 35/2.0 and 35-70 are nice everyday lenses. I now have the AF 35-70, again from shopgoodwill, for a low price. I have used it on manual focus bodies, though it isn't as nice as the AI version. I have also used it on a D200, where AF works nicely.</p>

<p>There are a lot of used AI lenses for very low prices. Less than a family dinner at a fast food restaurant! And they will still last for years and years.</p>

<p>The Nikkor AI-s 28 f2.8 is a special lens. At the time, Nikon was insisting that they produce the best 28mm in the field. So they sat down and designed what is arguably the optimum wide angle lens.<br />This middle speed lens was introduces around 1975. For many, it represented the best value in the line up. In its AIS form, the optical design was formidable, featuring CRC and a minimum focus distance of 0.2m. It is reputed to be one of the sharpest wide angle Nikkors, and remains in production as of 2008, along with its less impressive AF successor. The lens also excels in macro photography when reversed, providing for up to 9x magnification.<br />IMHO, this is the best bang for the buck, bar none. One would have to spend a thousand dollars on German glass just to be comparable to this little jewel...typically found on the bay for under $250</p>

<p>Both the 28mm f/2.8 AI and AIS are fantastic lenses. The AI can be found for less money than the AIS. The only advantage the AIS has over the AI is it can be used with matrix metering whereas the AI cannot. But if you have a Dremel, you can turn the AI into an AIS in about 10 minutes. That is what I did.</p>

<p>There have been other threads on the slower 35mm Nikkors. In the middle of the run of the 35/2.8 AI the switch was made from the six element design of the earlier 'K' model to the five element design which would continue into the AIS model. The six element models are excellent. I have two of the 'K' models and an early AI. I also have a late AI. The five element lens is nothing special. Cosmetically the early and late 35/2.8 lenses are nearly identical but the serial numbers can be looked up. I am skeptical of lens tests which show field curvature in wide angles and telephotos. The tests are typically made using a chart of some kind and at very close distances. These lenses are not made to work as flat copy lenses at close distances but may work well at the distances they are intended for. This is certainly true of the 28/3.5 AI. If I want a 28 which is well corrected for close use I will take out my 28/1.8 Konica UC Hexanon and put it on a Konica body. The UC's only drawback is the issue of oil appearing on the aperture blades. If you need to shoot a flat surface close up and want as little field curvature as possible, use a 55/2.8 AIS. The results will be better than what you will get with any wide angle. I agree that the 35/2 Nikkors are very good when stopped down even a little. I have a 35/2 O and have thought about converting it to AI. My favorite fast 35s are the 35/2 Canon FD (all models), the 35/2 Konica Hexanon and the 35/1.8 Rokkor HH. The runner-ups include the 35/2 SMC Pentax-M and the Vivitar 35/1.9 Fixed Mount. </p>

<p>There is no better 28mm NIKKOR than the 2.8 that has a minimum focus of 0.2 m. I think it is Ai-S. Buy it once and you'll use it for a lifetime.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"What is best nikon Ai/Ai-s 28mm or 35mm lens on budget?"<br>

"...I shoot on streets and also family/friends..."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I have owned and used the following lenses:<br>

28mm f/3.5 pre-AI Nikkor (52mm filter)<br>

28mm f/2.8 AIS Nikkor (52mm filter)<br>

28mm f/2 Distagon T* ZF 2 Zeiss (58mm filter)<br>

35mm f/2 AI converted Nikkor (52mm filter)<br>

35mm f/2 AI Nikkor (52mm filter)<br>

35mm f/1.4 AI Nikkor (52mm filter)</p>

<p>On my Nikon body, I can use any of them for shooting streets, friends, and family. The 3.5 pre-AI is the least expensive but I do not know how well it would work on your FE body.</p>

<p>Since I do a lot of low-light shooting without flash, I know I need a fast lens and have therefore, never considered the slower f/3.5 lenses. The fast 35mm f/1.4 is my personal favorite because its focal length and fast speed fit my shooting style, however, it is too expensive for a modest budget.</p>

<p>The 28mm f/2 Zeiss is my second favorite because it is fast, well made, and produces high quality images. However, it too is expensive.</p>

<p>The 28mm f/2.8 AIS is my third favorite because at the same f/stops it produced images equal in quality to the Zeiss 28mm f/2.</p>

<p>I rarely use the 28 and 35 at the same time.<br>

I tend to use my 35mm in a 35/85/180 kit.<br>

I tend to use my 28mm in a 28/50/135 kit.</p>

<p>Are you also considering 28mm Tokina, Tamron, Sigma, and Voigtlander lenses?</p>

 

<p>The 28mm 2.8 AIS really is a special lens. The close focus ability combined with great sharpness wide open makes it a keeper.</p>

<p>On a tight budget, I'd probably go for a 35mm f/2.8, but I do tend to prefer 35mm lenses over 28mm.<br>

As for dedicated film scanners, they do not have to be all that expensive. Check for the Plustek or Pacific Images (in Europe called Reflecta), those scanners do a perfectly fine job with 35mm film, and do not cost all that much.</p>

<p>You do not want a 28 3.5.<br /><br />For many years my only wide angle was a 28mm 3.5 Nikkor-H (pre Ai). Fine lens outdoors but damned near impossible to focus in low light because it was so slow. Problem is that at 28mm you have so much depth of field that it's difficult to see small differences in focus unless you have the fast version of the lens or lots of light or both. I eventually switched to a 35mm 2.0. World of difference. Whether you go with a 28 or 35, save your money until you can get the fast version. You won't regret it. You will regret a 28 3.5<br /><br />Keep in mind also that 2.0 is "normal" in a prime and 1.4 is fast. 2.8 or slower is slow for a prime. If you go with 2.8 or slower you'd might as well be using a zoom.</p>

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<p>If you go with 2.8 or slower you'd might as well be using a zoom<br /></p>

</blockquote>

<p>There are good reasons for using slow primes. They are usually much smaller than equivalent zooms, there are plenty of occasions when a small, lightweight, unobtrusive (and cheap) lens might be preferable. Slow primes usually have less barrel distortion than zooms. They often have better contrast and resistance to flare (although newer zooms with modern coatings are can also be very good in this regard). And then there is also whether you prefer using zooms or primes - primes are less flexible so they might make you work harder to get the picture, which may give better results.<br>

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<p>The 28mm f/3.5 AI-S lens that I have tested has nice image quality overall, but also rather heavy vignetting on extreme corners on fx.</p>