Replacing SLR Foam Seals On A Budget

<p>Hi Everyone,</p>

<p>Thanks for reading. I have an SRT 200 body that needs it's door seals replaced, as they are absolute goo. I'm on a tight budget, i.e.: no money, and I need to do this repair myself. I've been looking online for some tips, and so far I've come across folks using black cotton wool and/or self-adhesive craft foam to replace the seals.<br>

My worry with wool is that if it has to be glued down into the door channel seam with say, contact cement (recommended by one website) it would be impossible to pry out down the road if there were any issues. My worry with the craft foam is that I was once told that non camera-specific foam can break off into tiny pieces and be impossible to clean out of a lens. Since these are my two options, I would really appreciate if anyone has any feedback on these ideas, and if they've used one themselves, maybe share how it worked out for them? Thank-you so much!</p>

<p>Why not buy camera specific foam on ebay? - http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_odkw=minolta+srt101&adpos=1t2&geo_id=33421&MT_ID=42&crlp=50973524957_109&keyword=minolta+srt101&device=c&crdt=0&clk_rvr_id=811381469764&_osacat=30038&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.Xfoam.TRS0&_nkw=foam&_sacat=162047 - I assume you don't have the craft foam at hand either.</p>

<p>Hi John,</p>

<p>I would buy it if had the $20 or so to pay for it along with shipping. I don't. I'm also uncertain how the body will handle with a role of film, as I've noticed there is some drag with the advance lever every third frame. I do craft foam on hand.</p>

<p>August, I use ordinary black knitting wool to for the seals in the grooves, and silicone glue, which remains flexible, to stick it in. I don't even bother to scrape out the old sticky material as it helps to keep the wool in place, but obviously clean it off from edges of the film door. Just run the glue into the groove with a toothpick, say, or a tiny screwdriver. Wipe away excess with lighter fluid or similar. Then stretch the wool over the groove and press it in. Trim the ends with sharp scissors and tuck them in with the screwdriver.</p>

<p>Be careful not to block the lever which resets the frame counter, you have to leave a gap in the wool there. When you close the back the wool is pressed into the grooves and you hardly see it again. Open it after an hour or so to prevent the back from sticking! </p>

<p>I've done loads of SLR's and rangefinders like this with no problems with light leaks or the wool coming out.</p>

<p>I use sticky back black felt for the hinge seal, after scraping off the old sticky material. I've used foam in the past with no problems. I also use the felt for the mirror bumper where applicable, but the SRT doesn't usually need this doing as it has an unusual design of mirror bumper which moves upwards with the mirror.</p>

<p>Another thought, if you just want to test it with film before doing the seals, you could just tape around the film door with black electrical tape.</p>

<p>Jon Goodman will sell you a complete, pre-cut set of seals for $10. You'll spend that amount of time in frustration, trying to cut your own.<br>

I've always considered his packages a bargain.</p>

<p>I agree with Mr. Seaman. I've used the black knitting wool a number of times. You can probably scrounge up a couple feet of it from a knitter. If you buy a skein, you can probably replace every seal in the town you live in. </p>

<p>+1 for black knitting wool. And sometimes it will work without using glue; just try it first and see what happens.</p>

<p>P.S. - Btw, I can mail you some wool if you want; (no charge. Just PM me).</p>

<p>I've used the wool as well, craft foam on occasion, and foam I've cut from certain exterior weathersealing items (not open cell foam, but closed cell foam) - all worked fine. another idea for back door seals is the felt type material from used film cannisters, and also black satin ribbons.</p>

<p>second on Jon Goodman. really good price and shipping was included.</p>

<p>If the removal of the old slimy gunk is not complete, it will do the job of holding yarn in place. Otherwise a tiny drop of rubber cement in the groove, but don't over do it.<br>

It's just a lot easier to buy the pre-cut kits, though</p>

<p>Way back in the day, John Goodman sold me a big batch of foam seals of all the sorts he carried for around $50 IIRC. I have repaired at least a dozen cameras with it so far, and have enough for another half dozen or so. I've also bought a half-dozen of his individual kits too.</p>

<p>Sadly, someone took advantage of his generosity and made the same deal on a big batch, then RE-SOLD the same material on a kit-by-kit basis, undercutting John's price on the Bay. Now, John can't afford to sell a decent batch to guys like us anymore because he'll never know when someone will turn around and undercut his main business.</p>

<p>I would dearly love to buy another $50 batch. I refurbish a dozen or more cameras per year. The cost of John's $10 kit when I'm buying whole cameras for $20 or $30 is getting kind of expensive. I guess I'll take a look at the black yarn option.</p>

<p>I'm firmly in the camp that says use the correct materials, and avoid substitutes (like open cell foams that are not made for the purpose of blocking light) and adhesives. I'm in the UK (and assume you are not), so I can't recommend where to buy materials as the shipping will likely cost more than the material, but a typical price for an 8" x 5" sheet of 1.5mm closed cell material is the equivalent of just over $4 (including UK postage). That'll do quite a few cameras, even with cutting errors. Things here are typically more expensive than in the wonderful USA, so no excuses - get the right materials, and get that camera back to as new condition on the light seal front. </p>

<p>PS: Yes I've been to the States (Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico), and absolutely loved it !</p>

<p>You can use the felt lip from a film canister to replace the mirror bumper.</p>

<p>Another vote for the black felt. I bought a ball of black yarn from Walmart for four dollars and I have enough to reseal most of the cameras in Scarborough.</p>

<p>There are sheets of black foam rubber available in DIY and crafts shop. They are not very expensive, and with one sheet of letter format you can save a dozen or more cameras. Use a sharp knife to cut off small stripes (a metal ruler will be helpful but everything straight and hard will do). If you cut them a little wider than the grooves they will fit when pressing them in with a small screwdriver piece for piece. <br>

I never had any problems with this sort of foam. I fixed some cameras this way more than 10 years ago and there no particles or flakes coming off. </p>

<p>I've use black felt to repair old Koni-Omega bodies and backs successfully. It's readily available at any material store, and for the size and amount you want you can probably get it for free by just asking for a sample. And if you're worried about removing it in the future then it can be installed using either rubber cement or double sided tape.</p>

<p>Jon's a terrific guy, I can't speak highly enough of him. Having said that my experience suggests the Minoltas don't miss their seals. I've cut down the strips from 35mm canisters for re-sealing many Japanese cameras. Do it right and you can't tell they're not original, cost is virtually nil, and it works. But I've run some films through SRTs without touching the light seals and haven't had a leak yet.</p>

I do the black/brown yarn thing too. In many cases the ridge is deep enough to hold the yarn. I touch it in a

few places with rubber cement that is all too easily pulled out with it when required. I hear only god things

with Jon Goodman, though I have never bothered with the seal kits! Considered one for the Canon G17 III.

But the yarn has done the thing ok so far.

<p>Here's another vote for Jon Goodman. I too am on a tight monthly budget and I tend to acquire old cameras that need seals when I get them. I find that if I just order from Jon every couple of months or so, my needs are taken care of without breaking the bank. Who else do you know of, when you send him an email order, his reply states that he'll get the kit right out to you, without bothering to wait for your payment to arrive? He's an honest guy and believes in customers who are just as honest. Besides, Jon's instructions are just about the best there is, and they are specific to the camera you buy them for. He really goes the extra mile to make his kits the best deal and I wholeheartedly support him in his efforts.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00SVtt</p>

<p>Hi Everyone,</p>

<p>Thanks to all who posted and shared their wisdom! I ended up going with black 100% cotton thread I found at Micheals and rubber cement. I only filled in the bottom door grove, and kept the door hinge felt. The rubber cement was tricky because it left little threads, but it is easy to rub off when dry. I placed it in increments along the bottom depression. My first test role came back a little overexposed, but no signs of any light leaks, so I'm thrilled!</p>