User_1172872
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1st - the teleconverter should be attached to the body. If you have attached it between the bellows and the lens, you are going to lose sharpness. 2nd - I don't understand why you need the converter or the bellows. The 55mm micro should go to 1:2 on it's own. That's approximately full frame to DX Hope this helps.
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<p>The body will not display the aperture with a manual focus lens. Also the meter would have to be set to manual or aperture priority. If you are using a non-cpu lens, set the meter to aperture priority and move the aperture ring. If the shutter speed changes, probably all is well.</p>
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<p>Twenty years ago I owned some Kowa 6 gear. I have to agree with Rodeo Joe. My Kowa stuff just wouldn't stay repaired for very long, even thought I didn't use it very much. Tired of the frustration, I switched to Bronica. Given the price of used SQ-A or SQ-Ai gear today, I wouldn't go anywhere near a Kowa, except as a paperweight. With regard to the issue you described: I can't imagine any way the frame counter or pressure plate could cause the problem you described.</p>
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Reciprocity failure or a shutter box that needs servicing?
User_1172872 replied to belal_chami's topic in Lighting Equipment
<p>Your FE2 has a vertical travel shutter. The frame taken at 1/2000 is evidence that the shutter is "capping" at higher speeds, i.e., closing prematurely. If you're lucky, it may just require an adjustment; if you're unlucky, it may be irreparable or simply beyond economical repair. If I were you, I wouldn't have it fixed; I'd scout around for a used Nikon N8008, which has all the features of your FE2 plus auto wind, auto rewind, and auto ISO indexing. Only downside is that you have to replace the batteries more often but they are AA.</p> -
The Kodak 35 Revisited
User_1172872 replied to rick_drawbridge's topic in Classic Manual Film Cameras
<blockquote> <p>Only a mother could love.</p> </blockquote> <p>Would that quote come from Lahue and Bailey in 'Glass, Brass, and Chrome'?</p> -
55 Years Ago - November 1961
User_1172872 replied to marc_bergman1's topic in Classic Manual Film Cameras
<p>Multiply 8x to adjust for inflation. </p> -
Petri FT1000 Repair
User_1172872 replied to christopher_osullivan's topic in Classic Manual Film Cameras
<p>Kuribayashi-Petri declared bankruptcy in 1978. (Later 'Petri' cameras are actually re-badged Cosina SLR cameras with the Pentax K lens mount.) Gus mentioned that Petri cameras did not have a good reputation for reliability. Certainly I didn't have a high opinion of the one I had! In his <em><strong>Collector's Guide to Kuribayashi-Petri Cameras </strong></em>, John Baird writes that "When they eventually do fail, most users find it terribly difficult to have them repaired." And that was published in 1991!<br /> If you are lucky, the only fault is that the shutter curtains have to be re-tensioned. Even then, a repair shop may be reluctant to take the job due to the risk of snapping a brittle spring when replacements are unavailable.<br /><br /></p> <p> </p> -
Canon FDn 50/1.4 focuses PAST infinity! please help!
User_1172872 replied to danilo_cerovic's topic in Canon FD Mount
<p>What you're describing may be the result of an amateur "repair." I would shoot a roll of film and have it processed immediately. If the pictures look good I wouldn't worry about it.</p> -
<p>The light leak on the 220 frame is much too large to be caused by loading in daylight. Did you change lenses during a roll? Since the 690BL has a leaf shutter in the lens, a curtain must completely block the film plane while changing lenses.</p>
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<p>Since 220 film does not have a paper backing (except at the very beginning and the very end) a light leak can severely affect several frames simultaneously. An old Kowa 66 of mine had this problem. If I shot a roll of 120 very quickly, no problem. If I shot a roll of 220 at a leisurely pace, the frames were ruined. New foam solved the problem.</p>
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<p>I'll wager that Julio has got it right. Above 1/60 sec., the speed of the curtain does not change, but the timing (lag of the second curtain behind the first) changes the width of the slit. So if the mirror is still in motion when the first curtain starts its travel, you'll see different shapes at different shutter speeds. And since the curtain moves from left to right (as seen from the back of the camera) you would see the dark patch in the lower right. </p>
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Sometimes it is the lens!
User_1172872 replied to Sandy Vongries's topic in Casual Photo Conversations
<p>I owned one for several years. Some advice;</p> <blockquote> <p>There's no reason why you can't put a 1.4x TC to make an 800/8 if you felt the need</p> </blockquote> <p>Unfortunately not my experience. The TC magnified magenta/green color fringing, i.e, longitudinal chromatic aberration to the point where it was clearly visible. Wait for a sunny day then carefully examine the splashes of water at your birdbath in frames with and without the TC.</p> <blockquote> <p> There are other gimbal heads (Wimberley look-alikes) at a lower price point </p> </blockquote> <p>I purchased one from Amazon. Having used a ball head I'd say the gimbal is the way to go. Final thought: I sold mine in order to purchase a 500mm f4 autofocus lens with image stabilization. You may have just purchased a "gateway lens!"<br> Hope this helps.</p> -
Mystery movie Camera?
User_1172872 replied to gary_palmer1's topic in Extreme, Retro, Instant and More
<p>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newman-Sinclair</p> -
Topcon RE Super mirror hangs occasionally
User_1172872 replied to bennybee's topic in Classic Manual Film Cameras
<p>Have you examined the foam bumper at the front of the screen? When these deteriorate they often become sticky, sometimes badly enough cause the mirror to hang up.</p>