august_b

<p>Thanks to you all for replying-Very helpful!<br> I just tried a q-tip dipped in warm water with the excess dabbed off. Put it on the spot for a few seconds and it seemed to work. It looks better; I might go back at it and finish with some alcohol, but I don't really want to push my luck, if I can get away with it. </p> <p>I feel stupid, but at least I have spared someone else the shame of having to ask this question in future.</p> <p>Cheers!<br> -August</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hello!</p> <p>I was hoping someone might have a tip for me on how to clean my lens. I was shooting at a small indoor party last week and a small drop of sugar/honey syrup got onto the front element of my lens (yes, I was not using a filter, I know...) It's now dried, and I'm not sure how to clean it without smearing it over the surface. I'd prefer not to leave it on, and I need this lens for a job coming up this week. One suggestion I got was to take a damp, hot cloth to the spot to start to dissolve the spot, and then clean with lens fluid, but I'm not sure. Any advice?</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi Everyone,</p> <p>Thanks to all who posted and shared their wisdom! I ended up going with black 100% cotton thread I found at Micheals and rubber cement. I only filled in the bottom door grove, and kept the door hinge felt. The rubber cement was tricky because it left little threads, but it is easy to rub off when dry. I placed it in increments along the bottom depression. My first test role came back a little overexposed, but no signs of any light leaks, so I'm thrilled!</p>

<p>Hi John,</p> <p>I would buy it if had the $20 or so to pay for it along with shipping. I don't. I'm also uncertain how the body will handle with a role of film, as I've noticed there is some drag with the advance lever every third frame. I do craft foam on hand.</p>

<p>Hi Everyone,</p> <p>Thanks for reading. I have an SRT 200 body that needs it's door seals replaced, as they are absolute goo. I'm on a tight budget, i.e.: no money, and I need to do this repair myself. I've been looking online for some tips, and so far I've come across folks using black cotton wool and/or self-adhesive craft foam to replace the seals.<br> My worry with wool is that if it has to be glued down into the door channel seam with say, contact cement (recommended by one website) it would be impossible to pry out down the road if there were any issues. My worry with the craft foam is that I was once told that non camera-specific foam can break off into tiny pieces and be impossible to clean out of a lens. Since these are my two options, I would really appreciate if anyone has any feedback on these ideas, and if they've used one themselves, maybe share how it worked out for them? Thank-you so much!</p>

<p>Thanks for everyone's responses! I'm still investigating this, and when I come to the conclusion, if i do, I will update everyone. Untill then, rest assured I have appreciated everyone's responses as possible clues.</p>

<p>Hi FDer's,</p> <p>I got my hands on a Canon f-1 sans hotshoe with a SSD FD standard 50mm lens. I shot a color roll and asked the lab to just run it through, and not adjust anything. Upon examining the roll, the photos don't look to sharp, and I'm trying to find out why.<br> My normal camera is a Minolta SRT, so I'm used to an all-metal manual focus. Having said that, I'm not sure if it is camera shake, a problem with the shutter, or the lens is out of focus. If anyone has any feedback for me, I'd certainly appreciate it.</p> <p>Thanks all Canon users!</p>

<p>Hi Everyone,</p> <p>I found a recipe for Ilford's ID 36 that I wanted to try, as I saw it develops everything-from film to paper to plates. I thought by using a multi-purpose formula I could save money. What I can't find is any current technical information for it. The only thing I've been able to dig up is an pamphlet from the early 50s giving developing times for Ilford FP3, HP3, and HPS films.</p> <p>Would anyone know what the equivalent films would be to these oldies listed above? The Darkroom cookbook recipe calls for diluting it for use in tank film developing as 1:7 for 6-10 minutes, but no data on brand or speed of film is given. Would anyone have any clues/suggestions as to how to figure out developing times and dilution rates for fomapan or Kentmere? Thanks for reading and trying to help!</p> <p> </p>

<p>Thank-you both, that helped make some visual sense.</p>

<p>I'm just starting to use 120mm film after years of using 35mm. I shot a 120mm roll today and thought it had completely rewound, but when I opened the camera back, at least 6 inches of backing paper was still caught up in between the take-up and feed spools. When I first processed my own 120mm, I noticed there is considerable backing paper before you even get to the first frame. Does anyone know if the 120mm roll must have every inch of backing paper wrapped around itself to make the emulsion light tight, ie, did I ruin my film?</p>