carles_pradas Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 <p>Hi folks, <br> I have a question ...<br> Wich is the best BW film for long time nigth exposures with a Rolleiflex Planar 3.5?<br> thanks!</p> <p>C.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 <p>Fuji Acros 100.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 <p>I'd use T-Max 100 because it's worked well for me in nighttime long exposures and I'm familiar with it. But many folks suggest Acros 100 and the data seems to indicate it offers an edge over TMX.</p> <p>Almost any b&w film can be used, as long as you allow for the reciprocity characteristics. Even Tri-X works very well for nighttime long exposures if you don't mind the grain (or prefer the grain). But it's closer to EI 50-100 with longer exposures.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin_dake Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 I have had great results with Ilford HP 5+ and Fuji Acros, both in 120 format. The good thing about Acros is the lack of reciprocity adjustment needed for exposures less than 2 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc_b Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 <p>Even though I have no idea what a Rolleiflex 3.5 Planar does to film all other cameras of the world cannot do I will try giving a serious answer.</p> <p>To me, night photography film choice is about the contrast behaviour of the film. Not linear exposure characteristics up to 50 hours, etc. Recently I printed some night scenes from Delta 100 negatives: really sweet contrast behaviour (5-30 sec. exposures). Then I enlarged some TMY-2, quite a difference, very sweet too (5-10s). That said, I like Acros, too - for some of my projects!</p> <p>I'd say, take as many cameras as you can find and fill them with different kinds of film (TMX/Delta100/Acros for a start) then go out (at night) and shoot them in parallel.</p> <p>Contrary to Lex, I would't say that a film exposed to light levels where the film's reciprocity fails has an E.I.<br> In that zone, the "E.I." is directly a function of the light level of the scene; not much of an exposure _index_.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterbcarter Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 <p>Time for me to ring in...</p> <p>A little OT, but not really... Try some pyro too. Using a pyro will greatly enhance the dynamic range. The detail you can pluck out is kinda nuts....</p> <p>here is one (not mine) <a href=" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_clayton Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 <p>ilford fp4</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 <blockquote> <p>Contrary to Lex, I would't say that a film exposed to light levels where the film's reciprocity fails has an E.I.<br /> In that zone, the "E.I." is directly a function of the light level of the scene; not much of an exposure _index_.</p> </blockquote> <p>Right you are. I knew that was sloppy wording when I posted it, but was too lazy to go back and fix it.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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