Ballhead Advice Needed

<p>Hi<br>

I am about to buy a new ballhead. I am not getting the stability I need from my current 322RC head.<br>

I use a 5D and currently my longest lens is a 300mm f4 but I will likely be buying a 1.4tc for it in the near future; I might also go up to a 400mm f5.6 in a year or two and would want the head to cope with either of these.<br>

Anyway, I will be using the Manfrotto 055 legs ( Bogen 3221 in US I believe ) but am not sure which head to put on them. After a bit of research I am pretty much decided on either the Kirk BH-! or BH-3 ( which are available here in the UK ), but I don't know which one. I had also considered the Acratech GV2 but it seems the Kirk quality and reliabliity is superior especially for longer lenses.<br>

I don't hike long distances but the lightness of the 3 appeals. On the other hand I really want to be sure it will be stable for lenses up to 400mm f5.6; I don't see myself buying large fast super teles in the forseeable.<br>

Price is not the deciding factor here I just want the head to do the job for me and I don't want to be buying two heads if I can avoid it.<br>

Thanks for your advice<br>

William</p>

<p>the Arca Z1 rocks!</p>

<p>Try doing a search here at PhotoNet, as this was discussed a few times recently. That said, you'll probably get a variety of answers to your question, as most of the major brand heads are quite good. Because of that, it sometimes comes down to personal preference. In my case, it is the Markins line of ball heads that works best, although I would be satisfied with one from Kirk or Really Right Stuff as well.</p>

<p>I would look more at the The Arca-Swiss Z1 and e Really Right Stuff BH-55 than either the Kirk or the Acra-tech.</p>

<p>I like my A-S much better than my RRS ball head. The progressive increasing tension provided by the non-spherical ball is a huge feature unique to A-S that helps prevent flop-overs. The RRS is prettier though...</p>

The Arca-Swiss Z1 is a third generation head. There were two versions of the B1 that preceeded it. I have a 2nd generation B1 and love it. I looked at the RRS BH55Pro, and had the opportunity to see one in person at the zoo awhile back that someone was using. It is pretty. Still, I have had a Canon 600/4 (rented, good god, who can really afford one of those beasts?) on my B1 and it handled great.

<p>Thanks to everyone for these responses. I was slightly put off by the possibillity of the Arca Swiss head being compromised in its integrity by a new design. The RRS head is not available in the UK from a dealer and I would prefer not to order from abroad as an individual because any back up service becomes prolematic. This is why I had more or less settled on either of the two Kirk heads. I am really wondering if the 3 would hold the loads I intend to use it with or whether I would be better going with the 1.<br>

I had searched and found a couple of discussions comapring the two Kirk heads but these were not very helpful as they accomodated conflicting views. Ideally I would like to hear from someone who has both and who could give a report on their effectiveness with the lenses in question.</p>

<p>William</p>

There is an older post along similar lines as this that you might find informative:

 

 

http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/007l6g

<p>Thanks for the information DN. Clearly this is an issue where everyone has their preferences. I'm really mainly interested in stability. It is difficult to put a value on individual preferences. I will maybe phone Kirk and ask them which of the two heads I orginally mentioned they would recommned.<br>

Is it reasonable to assume the Manfrotto legs are going to be up to the job? I know they are not so light as Gitzo but I am not so worried about weight as stability so assumed they would be fine. I also wonder if light is really better in the case of legs. They can be as rigid as can be but if they are lighter surely this compromises stability? Also I understand that the newer materials transmit vibrations more than Aluminium.<br>

William</p>

Bogen 3021/3221 (silver/black) legs are fine legs. Heavy compared to carbon fiber, but lighter on your budget. The only issue I ever had with mine was the center column (which I shortened). IMHO, extening a center column changes the characteristics of any tripod.

<p>You might also find <a href="00SZ8d">this thread</a> informative. BTW, as long lenses go, the 400/5.6 is really quite light.</p>

<p>Thanks for your help DN. I read the thread you link to with interest. Having used both the Bogen and Gitzo models you mention, would you say the main difference between them is the weight or is stability significantly improved with the Gitzo?</p>

 

<p>Taking Ellis' point about the Arca Z1 I looked into them a bit further and have now added them to my list.<br>

I am assuming they will easily take the loads I intend to use them with as stated above.<br>

I was a bit confused because one dealer told me that each head had the option of a 1/4" or3/8" mount via an adpator. However I notice on another site that there are two models advertised, one with a 1/4' and another with a 3/9" "threaded disc" sizes. Can anyone enlighten me as to what this means? As you can tell I have no idea so all advice is gratefully received.<br>

Thanks</p>

 

<p>Stability is not an issue for any of the tripods I have used. Rigidity, wind/water vibration resistence, and transference of vibration, perhaps.</p>

<p>The Gitzo GT-3530S, with the flat plate and Arca-Swiss B1 ballhead mounted directly (no center column) Is the best I have ever used. Looking at the raw specs, it supports more, goes lower, and weighs less than anything else. It goes almost as high as most, too. Years back, when I got my other tripods, Gitzo leg locks were frustrating to me. The newer designs are vastly improved. As I see it, the only two advantages aluminium has over carbon fiber are impact resistence and weight. Yes, weight can be an advantage. A lighter tripod can move if bumped whereas the heavier tripod simply bumps you back. So, I keep my 3221 around. It is not going to be a concern when rock scrambling.</p>

<p>Thanks DN. I will stick with the Manfrotto/Bogen legs for now. I am really tempted by this Z1 ballhead but am still a bit nervous due to the reports of failure of the stem.<br>

Apparently AS resolved the issue for heads made after June 2008 but I still believe it possible that dealers will have old stock made before then in their stores. Apparently there is no way to tell if the head was made before or after this date.</p>

<p>William</p>

<p>William,<br>

I just got the Kirk BH1 and am thrilled. I was using an older Manfrotto head and wasn't happy. While I've not tried the others for any period of time I can say that the Kirk is smooth as butter. Weight may be an issue to some but I rarely wander far from transportation (knee problems).<br>

I essence...well worth the investment.</p>

<p>Having to replace a lost tripod and Arca-swiss Z1 ball head; does any one own or have used the Gitzo GH3780QR ball head? I've decided on a replacement tripod now I need to decide on a ball head heavy enough to support my 500mm lens.</p>

<p>The Kirk BH-1 is definitely a contender. I am keen on the Arca Swiss Z1 have fears over the stem issue If I could ensure that the one I got was made after the production addressed this issue I would buy it without hesitation<br>

William</p>

<p>I just read of some people having problems with the Z1 due to its low pan control knob when used with tripods with a base plate instead of a centre column. When I looked further it seems that AS have replaced this knob with a lever which should eliminate this issue. Am I right or if not has anyone found the knob to be a nuisancein use?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>William</p>

<p>I do not have a Z1 (B1, second generation), but I did read a thread here at photo.net in which there was a post about the Wimberley gimbal head that described how to tell the redesigned stem of the newer Z1 from the earlier design of the Z1. It looked to be readily apparent with the naked eye.</p>

 

<p>Thanks DN. I know there is a way of telling whether or not the stem is of the 2 piece or 1 piece design, but I do not believe it is possilble to tell if the 2 piece design is of the post June 2008 ( when Arca developed a way of making the head and ensuring the stem would not come apart ) manufacture or not.<br>

This is not the main issue that bothers me most now, because I can source the head from suppliers who will guarantee that it is of post Jume 2008 manufacture. I am keen to find out whether or not the pan - stop knob/lever is a nusiance on tripods without a centre column.</p>

<p>William</p>

<p>Is there any reason why no one talks about the Markins M-20 ball head (for heavier lenses)?<br>

I have never owned or use one but the statistics read better than most ball heads. I'm considering purchasing the Makins M 20 or another Arca-Swiss Z1. Comments are welcomed.</p>

<p>Speaking personally, the reason I don't talk about them is that they are not available from dealers in the UK and I don't fancy getting into the whole importing thing where if something goes wrong then the process becomes complex.<br>

Anyway, I would still be very grateful if people could stick with my original thread. I am quite keen to discuss this rather than deviate into questions about gitzo heads or why no-one talks about markins or other topics.<br>

I would prefer it if you wanted to discuss this that you started another thread dedicated to the topic. Thanks<br>

William Scott</p>

<p>Actually, I though there was a way to tell if the Z1's 2-piece stem is of the old or the new design. I will look for it.</p>

<p>Darn. <a href="http://www.tripodhead.com/Arca-Swiss%20Z1%20warning%20for%20SK_%20New%20090227.pdf">Apparently not</a> .</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Have you considered looking for a second generation Arca-Swiss B1? Or even a B1G?</p>