Xícara de Café

Thanks, yes I'll do that.

Hard to tell. Seller says it's original. Box looks good as does the battery itself. Looks exactly like the old one.

Dear Nikon forum, I received a EN-EL15 battery for my D610. It came with a note from the seller that the battery should be charged for a full uninterrupted four hours on its first three charges. Does that sound correct? Or just charge normally until the lamp on the charger stops blinking? Cheers and enjoy your Sunday,

Thanks for your reply. I think the problem may be solved. I originally sent this camera to Europe to get restored and understood that the shutter had been replaced with one from a Kiev 3. I ended up managing to contact the technician again (it's been a few years) asking if he could sell me a new shutter to replace it locally. He told me that he hadn't replaced the entire Contax shutter but just elements of it with Kiev parts. He also kindly offered to fix it free of charge if I pay the postage. So I will take him up on that. All the best

I think it's the Kiev 3 shutter that is compatible but if anyone has info on other models that might suit, please let me know.

Hi, Does anyone know, please, which model Kiev shutters may be used to replace a one broken on a Contax III? Just before it broke:

Yes, there aren't so many photos listed as having been taken with it on Flickr. I just created a group for the Contax RF-mount 50mm Tessar. If anyone has one, please join and start posting photos. :) See: Tessar 50mm in Contax RF-mount One more:

The lens arrived and I managed to shoot a short roll of film in a Contax IIa to test the lens. Seems very good and has a different look to my Sonnars. Here's the best of the tests and a shot of the lens itself. Film is Delta 100 and the developer is PMK. All the best!

If no good, I may send it to a lens polisher I know who did a great job on my Sonnars. I gather the filter size for these is 25.5mm. Does anyone know what lens cap will fit? I have a spare aluminium cap from a Jupiter 8, perhaps that will work.

Contax IIa, Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 5cm 1:2 collapsible, Delta 100 @ 80, PMK 1:2:100 10' 24°C.

Oh well, I went ahead and bought it. From what I can find, the serial number makes it a 1937 model, so I guess it's not coated.

Actually, it says "Zeiss Ikon A-G Dresden" on the outer part of the lens, but "Carl Zeiss Jena [serial #] Tessar" on the inner ring. I know Jena is a different city to Dresden...

Hi, I've just come across a Dresden made and Contax mount Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 5cm f3.5 lens in what looks like good condition and a good price. I take it that it's a pre war or wartime model. Couldn't find any information on it. Does anyone have any experience with it? Is it a coated lens? How might it compare with a pre-war Sonnar 5cm f2 collapsible (of which I have 2 and like very much). Googling, there seems to be a *T model. This isn't one of those, so perhaps it's older. Keen to hear if anyone has any comments. Thanks!

Thanks a lot @glen_h and @Sanford, good tips! The glue isn't in fact superbond but something called Almasuper (super soul!). It may have some of the properties of both superbond and superglue because i managed to get the drops off the with acetone and I'm working on the smear with WD40 and perhaps the latter is having more effect. It's going to take a bit more elbow grease but hopefully I'll get it all off. Cheers!

Hi, I have a project that involves a 127mm bi-convex lens. When installing the lens in a cabinet I managed to get some tiny drops of super-bond on the lens as well as a slight smear of glue near its edge. Needless to say I'm going to change my working methods as I'm going to be install 4 more such lenses (I'll be using silicon this time!). The lens is to be looked through but its optical qualities are not very critical. I just need to get rid of the glue and any scratches. So my question is, can anyone suggest how I can remove the glue manually and with the resulting cleaned lens having a non-scratched appearance? I remember reading that cigarette ash and a soft cloth can be used to polish scratches but I'll need to remove the deposits of glue first. Perhaps I'll need to remove this lens and get a new one, but I risk damaging the cabinet. If anyone thinks I may be able restore the current one, please send suggestions! Here's a picture of the project. It's a type of peepshow. Thanks!

My favourites are the Nikon F and F2 with the prism head or the F with that big block-headed F light meter, either black or chrome. Real brutalist beauty. I have none of these so unfortunately no photos to post. Also like the Leicaflex Standard, as posted above.

Post script: Have given up on the idea of taking it, did a test again this morning and it seems worse than it was yesterday. I'll take it to technician when I get back to see if it's worth fixing. Thanks all for the input.

Photos for a theatre production. D610, Nikkor AF 35-70mm 1:2.8D.

I know what you're saying. I've had this camera for at least 30 of those 40+ years and I fear that I may suffer the same fate :-)

Thanks NHSN, BeBu and James. Yes, jumps only on being adjusted but sometimes continues to jump when the aperture is "seated". Readjusting can fix it. Will continue to give the dials a work out and hopefully it'll get better. Just bought a couple more LR44s as a backup but will order a couple of CR-1/3 Ns for the FE and my F2. I would take the mechanical F2 with me but I'm going somewhere where getting robbed is a possibility, would prefer to lose the FE than the F2! :-) Cheers,

Hi, I'm wanting to travel with my old Nikon FE camera. I changed the batteries and cleaned the contacts in the battery chamber with contact cleaning spray, as initially the charge from the new batteries was not registering (but no, the old batteries had not leaked). The battery test leaver gives a nice bright and consistent red signal on the LED, however, when I look through the viewfinder and adjust the aperture, the meter's needle sometimes jumps around madly, especially in bright light and especially in adjustments between F8 and F11, if that means anything. Are there other user-accessible contacts that I can try cleaning? Thanks!

I use my IIa quite a lot and love my 30s Sonnar 5cm/2. It originally had problems with the top 1/1250 shutter speed. The shutter was becoming apparent in the photos, with a look of someone peering through a gap in Venetian blinds. I had it fixed and it gave me trouble-free use for a couple more years. Unfortunately, the problem returned on my last outing with the camera. I believe it's a matter of adjusting the shutter tension, but perhaps I'll leave it as is and shoot not faster than 1/500. My Contax III on the other hand works fine at 1/1250, even the photometry is usable, but has a light leak....

Leica IIIf, Summicron 5cm 1:2, Kodak Tmax 100, PMK.

Some shots taken on the weekend with an F2 + Micro-Nikkor 55mm 1:2.8 Ais and Tri-X 400 processed in Rodinal.

Thanks again. Thought of testing the focusing aid with a manual lens and it behaves the same way, so I think the problem is with the camera. Will test the default fine adjustment next. I actually only have one CPU and autofocus lens, the rest are all oldies, so if it works it shouldn't be a problem and the problem may be with the camera anyway.