chazfenn

There is a "notch" cut out of the 126 cartridge the position or size (I forget which) mates with a pin (lever) in the camera to set film speed. I'm guessing here but the CdS cell is a resistance that varies with light, so if the meter cell were shorted it would read very high, like a 500th perhaps?

Are you sur Are you sure? I ask because even though it was 40+ years ago I remember the 2/3~ 1/3 split mirror & I never owned an SQ of any type, just anS2A?

You cant (effectively) push or pull C-41 negative film because it has to "develop to finality" for the remainder of the process to function normally. I wouldn't be too concerned though as it has about a 7-stopover exposure range! You may even find the extra strong super saturation attractive!

Rear driveway, nice & secluded till you have to clear it!

I don't know ow helpful this is but I find the mobi type on sale at amazon.

We used to jokingly call them "Baroomicas" they feel very different from a lot of other 2 1/4 SLRs but they are very different internally with that split instant-return mirror.

The angled sot is called an "Oblique". I don't kow of a correct way to do such a conversion but you could probably get an approximation with a converging verticals application.

90% of internal camera gears are brass. I wouldn't sweat it they're ot in a high stress environment & brass is self lubricating, which steel isn't.

Literally a 1: 20,0000 shot of my new neighbor, an albino groundhog.

Again I think you did just fine, personal preferences are just that.

Overall timing & streaking is very much a personal preference, but I like them long & smeared which is why I pick the longer exposure times. Unfortunately that usually means missing the early part of the show as the sky has to be fully dark to allow for such settings. Fortunately they tend to ramp up the show as it carrys on, frequently ending with a "grand finale" which will sometimes record multiple bursts in a single frame!

You're kind of caught between a rock & a hard place with fireworks & a flag in the same frame. One must be short to freeze it, the other long to enhance it. I'd honestly "cheat". I'd expose the flag fast (maybe with a BIG flash), then shoot the fireworks a good bit slower (say 15 sec @ 5.6 w 200 iso film) then superimpose the flag post production.

From the images you e mailed I'd guess 35mm. Its not possible to tell more than that from the info provided. the 3rd image is way out of focus so its a low scorer for quality, the rest I'd rate as "average", I.D. pics are one size fits all from a standard setup. I'd guess the lighting for 60's ID would be tungsten hot lights, strobe hadn't really caught on for that kind of work yet.

Sure. I started out in the biz in '65 after 4 years of photo education. I started in the U.K, & worked in France, Belgium, Holland & The old Czechoslovakia. I retired from photography a few years back & have done industrial/commercial, press & sports with formats from sub mini (16mm stills) through 35mm, 2 1/4 Sq, Up to 45 & 8 X 10".

You did fine. The trick is to balance the illumination level of a specific burst so that it doesn't wash out color. With fireworks basically the F-stop determines the exposure of individual particles & shutter speed determines the lengths of the track recorded. The 3rd issue is that many automatic systems will force the black sky (comparatively) to grey & that spoils the effect. The only thing I might have done differently would to be to set the white balance to 3400 or so as it gives a whiter white & truer colors.

It seems that even after being given a second chance he simply doesn't know how to fix it. I'd bite the bullet & try getting an estimate from someone else.:oops:

Its a choice between doing all the work yourself (including baby sitting tire kickers) & getting more money & just dropping it off with instant credit & no hassle but taking a hit on the finances. I used to work in a big national camera store & let me give you a tip. Trading in to buy there is probably the best route to go overall, because they'll give you a better deal for a trade than a sale because they don't need to "carry you" financially, waiting for your equipment to move. Shop round for the best overall deal though don't get suckered into a high trade in, but pay through the nose for the new stuff!

Ricoh Singlex TLS? Sold under multiple "House Brand" names. LInky below. Ricoh Singlex TLS

There's a simpler way. Buy some thin single strand electrical wire. connect one end of each strand to a contact of your strobe's synch cable. Cut to length where the other end can be taped to the outside of the balloon. twist together (or tape) about 1 1/2 ~2" a couple of inches from the end. Strip about 1 1/2" of insulation. Form both stripped wires into circles (wrap round object, twist ends shut remove object). Here's how it works (& it does). When the balloon pops the 2 circles are "whipped" together, shorting the synch to fire the strobe. You adjust the timing by the distance to the loops from the balloon & the spacing between them. You could also use the same setup to trigger a camera's remote socket.

Thanks, I eventually discovered that. The problem wasn't uploading, but recording the fact they'd already uploaded!:eek:

I used to use a Durst color head with multigrade. IIRC 90Y was grade 1/2 (you can't quite get "0"). 30Y was grade 1 nothing was 2 40M was 3 70M was 4 130M was 4 1/2 (can't quite make 5). Durst isn't CC values, although it is close, so don't go copying that over to a head not from Durst.

Lets not forger that today's "Auto" is a completely different beast from the old "averaged", "Center weighted", or "Spot" choices of yesteryear. Thee have been huge advances in both how meters meter & the automated "modes" for "portrait", "Action" & so on have made a difference too. I don't 100% trust my automation, but I do use it frequently, albeit modified with program shifts, exposure compensation & so on.

They've discontinued 3rd party hosting so no more hotlinks. Nice guys huh?

I'd go with a bubble level fitted 3 axis pan/tilt & attach a click-stopped pan head to the top of that. You'd level with the 3-axis & panorama with the 1-axis.

That was my thinking as well. The odd thing is with a failing HDD I'd have paid for the data rescue service if he hadn't put me off its ability! I think I may hook up the old drive & see if I can copy the embedded data files or maybe the whole programming over!